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What a fun question! This examination is best approached chronologically, because there are actually a sequence of consequences.So, you’re driving along at 130 MPH, you press the clutch in, and you attempt to put the shift lever into 1st gear. This is the first point at which you’ll likely encounter a problem.A (typical) manual transmission[1] has two shafts: an input shaft, and an output shaft. When you press the clutch pedal, the input shaft is decoupled from the engine. That is to say, it spins freely. This allows you to select the desired gear. When you select another gear, the RPM of the input shaft must be “synchronized” with the speed of the output shaft, based on the ratio of the gear desired.The mechanism responsible for this synchronization is called “synchromesh”. It’s a combination of conical clutches and a series of gated channels through which the gear-engagement collets must slide. The problem you’ll encounter is that at 130 MPH, the required RPM of the input shaft for 1st gear will be extremely high. Let’s look at an example using a 2016 BMW 328i with a manual transmission, because I happen to have these numbers at hand:Rear-axle ratio: 3.909Tire height: 26″ (OEM with base wheels)1st gear ratio: 4.714This would require the input shaft to spin up to (roughly) 31,000 RPM. As mentioned previously, the manual transmission performs this “synchronization” mechanically. It is unlikely that the synchro clutches are up to this task, as the normal operating range of the input shaft matches that of the engine (around 7,000 RPM). So expect the synchro to fail as you force the transmission into gear.If you did manage to jam it in gear — as the bits and pieces of the synchro clutch ring are digested by the gearset — the clutch plate would spin up to 31,000 RPM and probably separate, sending clutch material and metal components flying outward at alarming energy levels. Fortunately, they would (probably) be contained by the pressure plate and the transmission’s bell housing, so you’d hear a very loud bang, and that would be the end of your clutch.At 30,000 RPM, the entire input shaft will have exceeded its design limit by a considerable margin. While it may survive for a brief period, the heat generated will be tremendous. At some point, a bearing will fail, and the entire rotating assembly attached to the input shaft will move from its normal position. The many gears contained therein will shatter, and the transmission housing will likely rupture, sending a mix of gears and lubricating fluid onto the underside of the car and the road surface.Should you ignore the clutch explosion and raise your foot off the clutch pedal before the transmission’s innards exit their preferred location, there may be sufficient shrapnel remaining to catch upon the pressure plate and flywheel, which would spin the engine to a point that exceeds the design limit. Typical failures in this event include:Valve / piston impact, resulting in bent valves and broken pistons.Connecting rod failure, resulting in damage to the engine block and oil pan.An ejection of lubricating fluids (oil) from crankcase ventilation orifices.It’s unlikely that the engine will reach anywhere near 30,000 RPM before these failures lock the engine up entirely. The really bad news for you is the final consequence, which is a likely outcome in just about any eventuality past the point of actual gear engagement: driveline lock-up.The rear tires of the car are linked to the rest of the driveline, so if the driveline stops rotating, so do the tires. I don’t know if you have ever pulled the handbrake in a car — back before the days of these confounded electronic parking brakes — but to say that it destabilizes the car would be like saying that detonating a stick of dynamite might dislodge a stuck trunk latch.At 130 MPH, you will find yourself with two rear tires that no longer provide any sort of directional stability. The rear of the car will slide toward the edge of the roadway, because roadways are built with a crest in the center in order to facilitate drainage. Best case scenario at this point, you input the finite amount of steering correction to keep the rear from passing the front, and you end up off-road at +100 MPH. Unless you’re driving an Ultra4 truck, your day is only going to get worse from here. You’ll add considerable hospital bills to your automotive repair bills.And that’s just about all I can think of off-hand.Footnotes[1] Manual Transmission, How it works ?

Its Skoda Superb. The Superb offers you great comfort and cabin experience. Its the most comfortable car under 40–50 lakhs. Even the Audi, BMW and Mercedes-Benz can’t able to beat him.Skoda Superb L&KIt has a perfect combination of comfort and power. It has a powerful turbo petrol engine that can gives you nuts when you push the accelerator suddenly.The dashboard is neatly places and you barely found any panel gaps. The 8.5 inches touch screen watery fluid and offers android auto, apple car play, mirror link, navigation and rear view camera with adaptive guidlines.The seats is the perfect place to sit on and it is one of the b3st chauffer driven car under 50 lakh currently in India. There is ample amount of leg room and under thing support on offer. The rear arm rest with two cup holder is added some value to the customer. Apart from this, the manual curtains are also there for better hospitality.If hope you get the answer,Kindly Follow space @ARDwheels for more relatable queries.

We repair a lot of cars. The worst are driven by young men who hammer them, and young women who treat their cars (invariably Fiat 500 and BMW Minis) like consumer goods, have not the slightest idea where any driver maintenance points are, including how to inflate and check tyre pressures and are more concerned about the connectivity of their phones than the fact they are piloting a ton and a half of steel at high speed…Engine wear is almost a non event with modern oils but virtually ALL wear occurs when an engine is worked hard before the oil is warm, so using a lot of throttle on a cold engine is the biggest engine wear marker, followed by using cheap oils later in the engines life.A worn engine will fail emissions which are checked every year after the first three years in the UK. A fail writes the car off generally….After that, heavy braking, generally following hard accelerating. Modern cars are heavy and brakes wear much faster than they used to. You can easily wear out a set of front brakes in literally half the distance if you are incapable of gauging the distance between yourself and whatever is in front properly, or think it is cool to accelerate wildly then brake hard.A set of brakes for a small car will cost you £500 or so and £1000 for a medium sized saloon.Not reading the road well, crashing over speed humps and so on, will hammer shocks and suspension links and crucially, on modern cars, suspension coil springs.a broken coil spring on one side should be replaced with a pair on that axle so you are looking at around £250 or more for a front pairA pair of front shock absorbers for a small car will cost around £250–300 and any noticeable leak will fail an MOT. Shocks should be changed in pairs.Slipping the clutch, using lots of revs to get a dramatic start and so on will obviously wear the friction plates faster.A replacement clutch on a small car will cost a minimum of £500Basically, if you drive an old manual car, treat the throttle with care until the oil is hot (for the first 5 miles at least) , use synthetic oil and change at the recommended intervals. Drive smoothly, read the road and anticipate where you will need to be to minimise hard impacts on suspension, and heavy brake use. Constantly having to brake because you are too close to the guy in front is hazardous to your bank account.Finally, take the time to clean and polish your car by hand, you will find and issues on the body that need attention more easily…