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Let's clear up some confusion about this issue -- it is not really true that Marvel lacks the rights to produce solo Hulk films.So, the short answer is that Marvel "can't do a deal similar to the Spider-Man deal" simply because there isn't a similar situation with Hulk and there is no need to make any "deal" with another studio in the first place -- Marvel has the rights to make Hulk movies, contrary to popular misconception. Universal has distribution rights to the Hulk movies.Now, let's look at the details of the facts involved...(SPOILER WARNING! I DISCUSS SOME THINGS ABOUT THE FILMS HERE, INCLUDING THE ENDING & ALTERNATE ENDING OF AVENGERS: AGE OF ULTRON, SO PROCEED WITH CAUTION!!)Marvel regained the rights to the character (and announced this in their fourth quarter report from 2005) because Universal didn't make a sequel to the first 2003 Hulk movie. Universal lost the exclusive production rights (they retain distribution rights), and now Marvel has the production rights back, although under the reacquisition agreement it's possible Universal gets to co-produce in some capacity. But Marvel makes the actual decisions, make no mistake about that. Mark Ruffalo has said in an interview that Marvel doesn't have the rights to make Hulk movies, but this is either because he is simply confused about the situation (which is in fact very common among the actors in the films, who aren't privy to all of the production details and rights agreements etc, resulting in a lot of them making public claims that are at odds with the facts), and/or because Marvel is allowing the misconception to continue because it helps alleviate some of the pressure on them from fans and the press to make another Hulk movie (I'll explain this point shortly, don't worry).Universal still has the distribution deal for Hulk films, apparently, but might be persuaded to sell them back if Marvel is otherwise not making Hulk films.Marvel in fact already made a solo Hulk movie -- The Incredible Hulk was made by Marvel Studios (in conjunction with others, including Universal, who remained partners for that particular production since Marvel Studios was still just getting started in the film business at that point in time) and released in 2008 and part of the Marvel cinematic universe, just like all the other solo superhero movies.The real reason Marvel hasn't made another Hulk movie is very simply based on three key factors:1. The previous Hulk movies both performed very low at the box office, each falling about $40 million short of breaking even at the box office if we compare their worldwide box office with their budgets (and that doesn't count marketing costs, which add another $70+ million to each film's costs, too, although that was eventually balanced out by the DVD/Blu-ray sales and rentals plus other merchandising, leaving a shortfall of perhaps about $30-40 million per film); Marvel hasn't had an under-performing or flopping film since 2008's The Incredible Hulk and has increasingly built a reputation of invincibility, and there is a concern that another Hulk film would suffer the same fate as the previous attempts, and break the studio's streak of blockbuster hits;2. A Hulk movie would be vastly more expensive than Marvel is interested in financing at this point, since a solo Hulk movie that lives up to expectations and to the standard set by the other Marvel films would require extensive CGI focusing on Hulk being in mean-green form for most of the movie; spending the necessary $200+ million to accomplish the necessary CGI-heavy Hulk effects is more than Marvel wants to spend on a film that is a solo outing, since the studio has tried to keep costs from inflating and save the $200+ million budget range for their bigger team-up films; add this CGI-fest pricing problem to the aforementioned fact that Hulk movies have simply failed to attract large audiences, and you have a one-two punch that is making Marvel reluctant to make another solo Hulk film;3. Universal still has some distribution rights to Hulk movies, and they thus get to share the profits from the films, and Marvel doesn't want to share those profits nor allow another studio to continue distributing Marvel's superhero movies.Now, it's true that Mark Ruffalo and the Avengers incarnation of the Hulk has been immensely more popular than the previous cinematic Hulk incarnations. However, being a stand-out popular supporting role is easier than having to carry an entire film on your big green back. Plus, part of Hulk's crowd-pleasing nature of late has been Ruffalo's undeniable charm as Bruce, which would probably have to be in shorter supply in a film focused entirely on Hulk as the lead hero.It's also true that one easy solution to this is a Hulk "solo" movie that in fact has a lot of other heroes in it, something like a mix of the Planet Hulk and World War Hulk stories, where Hulk is first sent off to an alien planet where he is enslaved temporarily as a gladiator until he leads a rebellion of other super-powered gladiators to freedom and conquest; then Hulk and his army return to Earth and fight the Avengers. It could be a sort of mix of Guardians of the Galaxy and Avengers, in other words, with a cool team of alien fighters battling evil overlords and then fighting Avengers, only to team up with the Avengers in the climax when the evil overlords follow Hulk's army to Earth and attack it.That's how I'd approach it, anyway. And in fact, the original plan for the ending of Avengers: Age of Ultron didn't have Hulk disappearing on his own as happens in the theatrical version -- Hulk was originally going to be locked in the ship by Iron Man and shot into space, because he was just too dangerous to allow him to continue living on Earth. This seemed to clearly hint at the comic book events that lead into the comic book stories Planet Hulk and World War Hulk, and word was that after the Avengers launched Hulk into outer space, audience would next see him in a Guardians of the Galaxy sequel when the Guardians encounter a world where various alien characters are enslaved and forced to fight in gladiator combat -- Hulk would be a gladiator, the Guardians would help him and others escape, and then Hulk would return to Earth with some of the other escaped gladiators and do battle against the Avengers.But such a film would be a massive undertaking and very expensive, likely requiring a budget in the neighborhood of $250 million. That means a marketing budget in the $150+ million range. Which means $400 million in total expenses, and THAT means the film has to make $800 million at the worldwide box office before the studio even breaks even (they get about half of the box office). It would take a good year or two to complete such a CGI-heavy film, then another several months of marketing, and then it takes another half-year for the box office to roll in after it's released. Meaning Marvel would need to invest $400 million while knowing they'd not see profits for a few years, and that this particular character under-performed or outright flopped twice before already at the box office.If we just tossed in the total $80 million shortfall from the previous two Hulk movies and said the new film needs to also make up that amount (not really fair, but just to make a point about how profitable the character's total solo outings could be said to be), then consider that this means a new Hulk film would need to pass $960 million before the Hulk franchise could be said to finally have broken even. At $1 billion, the franchise could only claim a grand total of about $20 million in profit, then.And if this sounds like a crazy perspective, keep in mind part of the reason Superman Returns is widely claimed to have been a failure is because the studio, the media, and most everybody tack on the previous studio expenses for other failed Superman projects to the amount "spent" for Superman Returns and how much that film needed to gross to help "break even." Like it or not, this is a common attitude and way of accounting for how popular a new film has to be in order to justify its own existence.But then also remember, Universal still gets a cut of the profits, too, as the distributor of the film. So now consider that for every dollar of $960 million, Marvel gets 50 cents, but they have to give a portion of that to Universal, too. The profit margin for Marvel, then, is even smaller -- they end up getting less than 50% of the money a Hulk film makes!Marvel isn't prepared to bet on a solo Hulk movie topping $1 billion to bring the studio the sort of financial windfalls it's grown accustomed to from other properties. Marvel frankly doesn't need to make another Hulk movie, they have plenty of other fish to fry for the next several years without contemplating a huge expensive Hulk production that has such a high bar for success.The Hulk character works perfectly as a value-added element for other films, and as a supporting player and guest-star in other films he perhaps has much more he can do with (relatively) smaller scenes, maximizing his potential as a character while minimizing risks. It also helps avoid the problem that arose from his solo films, which is that audiences need to feel relevance and relatability to a lead hero, and with Hulk it has been very hard to achieve that over a full two hour story.I think it can be done, and balancing the elements to create a great Hulk story that is also popular with audiences is eventually something Marvel will pull off. But there's no rush, and so for now Marvel doesn't need to move forward with a Hulk movie until they feel they have the best story with which to do so, because the worst possible outcome would be yet another Hulk solo film that bombs at the box office and wastes all of the good will he's earned over the last four years as a supporting character in Avengers films. And as long as the profit margin is so relatively slim while the investment has to be huge and risks remain high, Marvel is unlikely to take the plunge until they are 100% certain it will work out for the best -- and I suspect they'll want to buy back the distribution rights from Universal, too.UPDATE/EDIT: Some folks are doubting whether it's true Marvel regained the rights to the Hulk. Marvel reported that they'd regained the rights, in a report to investors nearly a decade ago. Here is a link to a Business Wire story reporting on the earnings report and Marvel's reveal that the rights for the Hulk movies had reverted back to Marvel:Marvel Reports 2005 Earnings Per Share of $0.97, Inclusive of a One-Time Charge; Marvel Raises 2006 EPS Guidance Range to $0.44 - $0.55, Principally Reflecting Accretion From Share Repurchases | Business WireHere's the relevant quote from Marvel's then-Chairman Morton Handel:We announced a slate of feature films to be produced by Marvel using non-recourse, third-party debt financing. We are actively working on scripts for Captain America, Ant-Man and Nick Fury and expect that one of these could be our first film in production next year with a release in 2008. In addition, the rights for Hulk and Iron Man reverted back to Marvel, which will enable the Company to secure a significantly higher portion of the economic benefit than under the previous licenses signed several years ago.

This is a great question.Without a specific age group as a focus, there already exist many lists of 10 tips. Personally I like the ‘Index Card’ from Harold Pollack. [1] You can hear his own explanation of it in the Freaknomics Radio podcast. [2]The list, for all ages, inspired by the Index Card and adapted for India is below. There are 9 tips in the list. You can write your own item as the 10th!A single page with all the financial adviceI have written a series of posts explaining each of the rules. The rest of this long answer provides a summary of these articles.Save 30% of your incomeMany young earners ask the question on what they should look to save. Savings is one of the three main variables in the Money Equation. This question comes from the simplistic version of the Money Equation:Savings = Income - ExpensesThe more appropriate equation is this:Expenses = Income - Savings/InvestmentsThere are finer versions of the equations that differentiate between different kinds of expenses. You can read a longer article in this blog post. So why should the savings be 30%? - The biggest reason is that the average savings rate in India is around this number! The Savings Rate hovered around 20% for many years between 1980 and 2005. Since then, the Savings Rate has climbed up and has stayed close to or above 30%.2 - Pay your credit card bills in fullThe typical interest rate on credit cards is 25 to 35 per cent per annum. One of the lowest rates is 1.99 per month, which would come to more than 25% per annum. A rate that is close to 35% per annum means that the amount due doubles in a matter of years. So when you are paying your credit card bills in full, you are in fact preventing yourself from being caught in a vicious cycle of escalating credit card dues.3 - Max out all forms of PFTreat PF as a debt product and make it part of your portfolioEmployee Provident Fund (EPF, and its subtypes like GPF, SPF) and Public Provident Fund (PPF) are the most well known provident funds in India. There are important differences between them. The most important factors common to both of them are:They earn a specific amount of interest every year (the interest rate may vary from period to period, but it follows a steady trend)They qualify for the most preferred tax treatment - EEE or Exempt, Exempt, Exempt There are no other debt products that tick the boxes on the second and third 'E'sThey are long term instruments - associated with employment (EPF) or tied to a term (15 years for PPF)They provide some level of liquidityInvestors in India are really fortunate to have the excellent debt products of the provident fund family. By taking a long-term approach to them investors can make their debt portfolio rock solid. And a strong debt component makes the entire portfolio strong.4 - Boring is BetterOne of the most complex aspects of personal finance is to choose among the myriad of investment options available. It is easy to mistake a complex, slickly presented product to be a better product. The reverse is often true - a simple, easy to understand product is better. Often people find complex products exiting and simple products boring. We argue that in personal finance, "Boring is Better".Corpus Creation is more important than Return. If a steady approach helps you create the corpus that you need, then it is better than an ‘exciting’ approach.Once you decide that 'Boring is Better', it is easy enough to apply. You just apply it to each asset class, and don't compare asset classes.For long-term fixed income instruments, use PPF. Once the limit is exhausted, then look at long term bondsFor short-term debt, don't rule out Fixed Deposits (Has it become impossible to choose debt mutual funds for the short term?)For parking funds for 3-6 months, consider simple Savings account, and avoid liquid funds ( How to choose a liquid fund in 2019 by minimizing credit risk)For equity mutual funds, select funds that are suitable to your plan, instead of chasing the top-rated fund (Strange, but true! How mutual funds beat the index!)Continuing this, start with large cap funds (and in particular index trackers), before chasing small cap funds, and sectoral fundsFor direct equity, look for steady gainers, instead of chasing '3 year multi-baggers' (Select your first stock without breaking your head! Here is how)And so on….5 - Tax Savings is not mandatoryIn simple words. “Making an investment that you don’t need just to save taxes, is like buying an item that you don’t need just because it is on 20%/30% off sale.”Many people, in particular, young earners, seek to utilize all of the 80C limit. This is not a bad thing as such. (In fact, the 2019 budget would motivate people with incomes in the range of 6 to 9 lacs to max out 80C.) However most people approach this in the wrong way. They buy a product/make an investment just to use the limit, without looking at the long term impact. The worst manifestation of this to buy investment linked insurance policies.The most optimal way to use Section 80C would be as below.Start the tax savings plan in April of every financial year (Don't wait for end of the year)Include all the expenses covered under 80CInclude mandated contributions like EPF, NPSInclude PPF contribution per financial planFor equity part of portfolio, if any, use ELSS mutual fundsIf long term fixed deposits are part of the financial plan, use Tax Saving Fixed DepositIf these don't use the 1.5 lac limit, it may be helpful to stop. The simple fact is that for most people, Items 2–3 would continue to grow and soon reach quite close to the 1.5 lac limit6 Expect to pay for good adviceThis can be a controversial point. Personal Finance can be a complicated topic. Professional, unbiased advice helps individuals get an optimized and comprehensive view of their personal finance. This is so even if the advice needs to be paid for.SEBI defines the term advisor way in their Investor Glossary.AdviserA financial planner or financial intermediary who offers advice on personal financial matters. Advisers may be paid an upfront or an ongoing commission for the investments that they recommend.Courtesy: ForbesThe definition makes it clear that an adviser may be paid commissions. SEBI also regulates a specific category of advisors who earn only from fees charged to the clients; they earn no commissions and/or incentives.Most financial advice in India is given out by people who earn incentives, commissions, etc. from the investments that they recommend. Some more is given by people who are ‘fee-based’ - they earn via fees paid by the clients, and from incentives/commissions. Very little advice is given by people who charge a fee for their advice and earn nothing from the investments that they recommend.SEBI mandatory certifications, and the additional employer-required certifications, typically ensure that individual advisors (whether employees/partners/independent) have a reasonable amount of knowledge and competence in the relevant areas. Lack of sufficient knowledge is seldom the reason for poor advice. The biggest factor that makes 'free advice' poor is the conflict of interest.'free advice' from insurance agents would force you into expensive products with poor returnstrusting your bank manager/contact for financial advice is misplaced and most probably would leave you with an inferior productreturns lost due to commissions can make getting advice from mutual fund distributors more expensive for youThis strongly worded freefincal article talks about how conflict of interest can affect investors. What is Conflict of Interest?7 - Buy a house only when financially readyBuying a house doesn't make financial sense - usuallyThere is an eternal debate about the financial soundness of buying one's primary residence. There are many opinions, analysis and comparisons that seek to show that renting your house is better than buying. While there are many factors that are involved in this analysis, the most crucial factor is the rental yield. If rents are low, then financially it may be better to rent your home and invest more in financial assets. However, emotions play a huge role in this decision. Due to multiple factors, people want to buy their primary residence and 'make it a home'. In other words, people buy their primary residence because they are emotionally ready for it.‘Financially ready’ means all these things.Downpayment - You should be able to make the margin payment - usually between 10 to 20% of the value - from your own assets. It does not help at all to take loans for this.Emergency corpus - It is advisable to keep 6 to 12 months of expenses as an emergency reserve. Once you take a home loan, this should also include the home loan EMI. The emergency corpus needs to be considerably larger.Registration, Furnishing, etc. - Typically home loans can cover these large expenses too. If not, you should be able to cover them with existing savings.Life insurance - Largely the home loan provider would insist that you take up additional life insurance equivalent to the value of the loan. Even otherwise, you should significantly increase your life insurance cover since you now have a major liability.No impact on long term goals - This is a major factor. Home loan EMI should not have major impact on your investments towards long term goals. Yes, some impact is unavoidable since EMIs can be a large part of your income. But EMI should not crowd out all other investments.Liquidity/Fungibility - This major factor depends more on the house and less on your finances. It is most helpful if you have the ability to exit from the asset, if required. For houses, this would typically mean that you buy a property that is ready for occupation, or is very close to that stage. Pre-launch and under-construction houses may look cheaper; but delays in completion could severely dent your financial plan.8. Do not mix Life Insurance and InvestmentOnly insurance agents argue that this approach is useful to the investor. It is very easy to see that the typical investment linked insurance policies are bad in both counts.They don’t provide adequate insurance (If you increase the insurance cover in these products, the premium would become too high)They provide worse returns than pure investment products9. Pay your fair share of taxesThis response is being written during the tax filing season. I would say no more on this subject!Thanks for reading so far. The full articles are listed below.Personal Finance Rule 1 – Save 30% of your incomePersonal Finance Rule 2 – Pay your credit card bills in fullPersonal Finance Rule 3 – Max out all forms of PFPersonal Finance Rule 4 - Boring is BetterPersonal Finance Rule 5 - Don't invest to just save taxPersonal Finance Rule 6 – ‘Free Advice’ is ExpensivePersonal Finance Rule 7 – Buy a house only when financially readyPersonal Finance Rule 8 - Do not mix Life Insurance and InvestmentAvoid Endowment Plans – PPF gives better returnsNO – LTCG on equity does not make ULIPs betterPension Plans – Why you should avoid them in IndiaPersonal Finance Rule 9 – Pay your fair share of taxes, and nothing moreFootnotes[1] Advice to Alex M[2] Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Money (But Were Afraid to Ask) (Ep. 298) - Freakonomics

No, ..generally, practically speaking, if the House has been standing there for 10 years, it's reassuring. Everything is Fixable..a Shim Here, a Shim there..a Supporting Beam Below to Open up the Space between the Kitchen and the Dining..Go slow and stay Chill..All this is forgivable if you are in the right neighborhood..you want the cheapest House on the Best Street or in the Best Neighborhood you can Afford. If it is the Crawl Space, it could be the result of Frost Heaving ..because on old Houses (pre-1940), often the Foundations were not deep enough..The smaller cracks can be fixed with Polyurethane Injections..You drill holes in the wall around the crack..you install ports ..and then you squeeze in the Epoxy or Polyurethane goo ..you can do this yourself cheaply if you are handy..if not call in the Pros..2 k maybe.so there you have it..it is all figure-outable…lol..Stay positive and avoid falling into that Fear Mindset on that moneypit you bough…lolSee every problem as an opportunity to fix the problem and add tremendous value by adding an extra livable space..in the right neighbor hood or if you feel that you need a dungeon basement or extra bedroom or lounge space or closets..all add value..also add a bathroom..do the pipes before pouring a slab. put in lots of rebars (reinforcing bars in conrete..tied with wire mesh together or welded.... steel rods put a 6 mil polyethylene first to avoid that musty basement smell. caused by water seeping into the concrete walls..not good smell unpleasant and it can create fungal issues...but you solve all those problems if you add that new foundation..it is work..but its doable..find 2 guys to help you..pay them 15–20 an hour, pay them at the end of the day..4–15 days of that and its done..footings, ,The sequence is; footing mini slabs for the post,s, add the posts or jacks..attach them well on top and on the bottom (anchor bolts..buy the Cobras that you can just add later..you just do the 20x20 slab, with rebar,, put poly below them..cushion between the concrete and post and drill half-inch holes with a concrete bit (diamond drill0 and then hammer in them cobra Anchor bolts..Job Done..you bolt your plates to the mini slab that way..easy peasy..lol..attach top plates with 5 inch big nails and 4-inch patio or lumber screws..or lag screws with a hex head that you ratchet in, you need to predrill a hole in the beam above to lodge them in..twist away.., patio screws..nails are stronger than just patio screws sheers they can break in a hurricane or some earthquake …add a few beams supported by those 6 posts...….then excavate, do one section at a time but overhang the rebar 12 inches on each side so that they tie into to the next 8 ft section and you do 8 ft on a side, another 8 ft on the other side of the house..and...if you don't have money to do the slab, just do the posts or the walls.., just put in the 6 mil polyethylene (Home Depot, Lowes ..etc) underneath the concrete ..and maybe add urethane under the slab to keep your feet warm or add radiant heating pipes, linked to a separate water heater and then pour the slab..you can even stamp the slab, add red powder and it will come out looking like Italian tile..so think deeper....and some crushed stone and put in the drains and pits for the pumps..allow ventilation to prevent dry rot ..Insulate down the Road and solve all these issues..or do a messy slab but level (rent a vibrator at your tool rental place, make a few follies with plywood, watch youtube videos on guys doing that exact same thing..google basement slab..et voila....possibly do just with a rake finish, then build tile on top of it or add plywood sheets on top and then hardwood or engineered floor,,..avoid the cheap MDF laminate floors….if you re on a Budget, consider Bamboo Flooring..Stained Caramel..it will age well and contrast the white walls and possibly match the Beams..you want to Highlight.. Another possible finish is to sand the floors which are already perfect (need real pros here, then you add a quarter-inch epoxy finish..ventilate well….and you get the Nerd look of Silicon Valley..add some shimmer flakes here and there and maybe a Hollywood Star (like on Sunset Blvd ) for each of your Children…but you better be there long enough..the next buyer may like it or not but in 20 years, he or she may well add a hardwood floor on top of it. then..Also, some 2x2 panelized floors are also sold in the Big Box Stores..you rest them on top of the Concrete..and they are tongue and groove with a plastic finish that looks like Lego on the Bottom and Aspenite on top,.I don't like Aspenite..I prefer half-inch plywood or 5 Eights Ply which is std flooring..it will not be affected by a flood or sewer backing up like the Aspenite -Flake Board that will be irretrievable if you don't set in Motion very Quickly the Big Industrial Ventilators, Heaters and DeHumidifiers (rent them at too,l rental outfits)..they Do a swell job drying up a flooded Basement….Radiant heating is possible with the Urethane Finish, the Tile Job Finish, or the Hardwood Floor Finish….the Insta Soup Finish of the 2ft x2fty Panels will end up costing you more for a moment of convenience..but good old ply on top of the slab, with a cushy quarter-inch packaging type of bubbly roll thing underneath or standard underfloor for they use under laminate floors (but you ll put in hardwood) will give your step a bounce in that basement…lol. The cushy thing only if you don't have Radiant Heating ..Radiant heating, you could do just in the Bathroom or 3 ft wide in front of the kitchen where you stand a lot..put Hardwood elsewhere ..but have Urethane or styrofoam below the concrete to cut out that shiver factor…lol..Lots of cheap Urethane 2ft x4 ft panels floating around in them salvage yards..use that..find basement windows salvage too for 100–15)$ each instead of 600$ + new especially for large windows…add pits outside to make windows as big as possible and bring in light..a lighted space looks bigger..MDF Laminate floors don't resist water issues but hardwood is unperturbed by it…easy to refinish hardwoods down the road although these prebaked factory prefinished floors have strong veneers polyurethane finishes..if you are a granola vegan hippie, buy tongue and groove strips at the local mill (unvarnished) , give it a good sanding, then add linseed oil mixed in with bee s wax..it can be pretty also..or give it a distressed look..urban shabby chic..you paint them then slightly resand them..it gives it an industrial loft vibe SOHO Vibe...Americans in some places would carpet directly on top of the slab in Texas but in Northern Climes, they would usually rest and glue (PL Glue) sheets to the slab, then Carpet it..people with kids prefer that option..but hardwood floors are a sure bet and will add lots of resale value..over the years..that floor that may cost you 3 USD per sqft x800 sqft =2400$ + installation can add upwards of 20–30k on Resale,..Think about it..like the Chimney..use the old Oil Boiler chimney..reline it with 8 gauge round chimney pipe (inserted in 4 ft sections ) and add a firewood or gas fireplace or woodstove..it will heat the house if there is a power failure and it will prevent your pipes from freezing..or get a Generator..but they are noisy..and in some uppity neighborhoods, people complain but hopefully, you ll only use them once in a blue moon..lol>Carpetting is kind of tacky and outdated….unless your brother in law can get you hotel-quality carpeting ..lol. I prefer area rugs (old Persian rugs you can find in flea markets,.give them a good shampoo job on the front lawn and they have this distressed shabby chic bohemian look that adds Soul to a place..very Ralph Lauren type of look…lol..or Franciscan Mission LA type of Vibe..My Old House - Ep. 3 - 1908 Craftsman Home - Basement Concrete Footings and FloorsFor the impatient, -urethane Panels or styrofoam ..use what you can salvage —Roxul Mineral Wool (moisture-resistant and fireproof..a great product)in between 2x4 studs is also good but then add an aluminum foil-covered airfoil styro panel half-inch 4x8 ft panels (skirt a house with this and keep your pipes from freezing some furrings horizontally every 2 ft or 16 inches c-c.. of wood 1x2, 8 ft long ..on which you can screw your Gyprock but a Concrete Panel, in front the Fire Oven,.and make a sweet space from all this mess..If the House upstairs is Big enough, Don't Bother, just add a Post here and there in Areas where you see Gaps or Weakness..it will sturdy up them Floors..in the Old times, the poor Neighborhood Houses built with what they could find..often 10 ft pieces of lumber but they were quite resourceful..using a big rock that was there to sit their posts on and it was there for 80 years..it s just not earthquake-proof..ideally, you want to attach things with anchor bolts you have to add in them post footings…if not, at least add a few bolts of big nails to attach the top plates to the Beams on top of them..S just use your logic..Figure it Out,.it s not Brain surgery..Mediocrity can Happen Quickly..Do your research..and come out wiser..have the Humility to learn..the more you Do yourself. with 2–3 guys, the less it will cost..let them Do the Work,..Supervise them on all these Details I mentioned..rebar, shimming..Pits, drain around the outer walls..etc..access to that new unit..plan a staircase..watch videos on that..do it one step at a time over 10 years when you have idle time..it will be a fun distraction..have the right mindset..this can be very fun ..and it adds immense value to a house that had issues..easier if you ever resell it..not just price-wise that it will help you but also because these issues can be real deal-breakers..I have sold houses because I exposed an Old Brick Wall, or reused old sturdy 3 inch thick joists I recovered as Window Sills or Bookshelves..add a touch of Rustic creativity..the technology alone is important but good design can add another 10k-100k or more to space,..and the initial cost is fairly minimal compared to the value of the house….Put the Mesh 4x8 ft mesh panels..wired steel 8x8 inch squares in the Slab as well as some rebar…The Vibrator makes the concrete fill all the gaps and make it quite level just trowel it or dolly it up after half-hour later when it is a bit harder…the Vibrator finish alone is Ok if you add Ply on top of it..just make sure that there are no climbs anywhere..Take a 2x4 -4 ft long and to attach a handle to it 2x2 attached with 2 strips of plywood at angles between the handle and the 2x4 that will skim the concrete like a rake..you can use a garden rake too.. to hold it square..that s called a dolly. and you pull and push on it to put the basement in place, then put the vibrator in action..and it will make it as flat as a lake….dont over vibrate…vibrate the edges to push the concrete in the crevices of the wall..or ground..add that polyethylene 8 mil first and insulation then re-bat and the grid 4x8 steel mesh…locate all your pipes for the kitchen, washing machine, sinks tub, toilet ..etc.….if you must put in a drain (not a good idea), make sure you put in a Pee-trap to keep bugs and sewer gases out (they often dry out when the water evaporates and the sewer gases enter the house and that is why Drains in the floor are a Bad idea,.If you need, extra Space..rent a Conveyor. Buy Contractor Garbage Bags or rent a sturdy trailer and excavate that crawl space. Before you start excavating, install 4–6 new columns..Steel 4x4 or Contactor Jacks will Do the Job Fine..Find those contractor Jacks Salvage for 50USD each.6x50 + the Labor..Peanuts Bro..then you excavate with a small bObcat you rent ..and presto subito, you have a Basement ..Build 8 ft Sections, if you Don't Have Good Horizontal support..maybe add 4 Beams, if you want to sturdy up the Pace..either, find Scrap Metal I Beams in your local Construction Material Salvage Yard..and get a Bunch 2x10s at your Home Depot or Lowes. or Mills Some Beams (Go see your local Mill..this could be an architectural feature if you design it right and add some Urethane to cut the Cold Bridge..thermal Bridge. You could also pour the posts in Concrete..do that if You re Italian, hey they like Concrete..lol. All kidding aside, for those jacks, pour a 6 inch Footing 20x 20 inch..add a bit of rebar..Home depot , half incgh diameter..a Few Bags of Premixed Concrete et voila..you pour 6 nice footings ..and you rest your adjustable jacks..they screw up or down to adjust to the real Height…Very strong or But in Round 4–5 inch posts you found at the Salvage Yard..It s all ..The Plates come with the Kit..If the plates went missing, go to the Scrapyard, give the guy a 50$ tip and have him cut you 6x2 plates (12 plates ) of 10x10 inches..or 8x8 if you lack room ..and there you go..the Old Foundations stay there..the new Foundation is 5 inches in front of the Old One Inside but it goes 24 inches Deeper ..so the wall will underpin the old Foundation ..and you solved those pesky frost crakes..you may also have had Settlement ..if the house sits on Clay ..Don't worry, if the House is 10+ years old ..it has settled..Most of the settlement 80–90% occurs in Year. Some clays are like Jello ..and they wobble. I had a House on Square st, Louis in Montreal, that sat on wobbly grey River clay..all the Houses in that street had cracks, and most got piles driven to the bedrock to control the Settlement..it was so liquid that if you took a piece of rebar or 4x4 steel beam, and you let it go, it just vanished into the clay..scary stuff..imagine a man getting eaten up by that…But I did many basements 7 or 8 (all houses I owned) and renovatedMy Italian Contractor friend had put a 6 mil Polyethylene on the Floor and then some crushed stone much later..but the guys would walk there held by that plastic film kind of adhering to that clay..the Guy had Balls..I did his engineering Drawings required by the City but he knew what he was doing. One day, I get there, He Had taken away the entire first floor (it was all crooked..but nice timbers….cracked in some places because plumbers had cut into them to pass their pipes or there was water damage and carpenter ants from a leaky shower above a beam and them ants love a moist beam they can put their teeth into…lol. Them critters change their African nest every year so you can get multiple pockets they dugout on the beam..so you clean it up with a brush.. cut out the real rotten part..replace it with a new 2x10, add some plywood, glue on top like a Bandaid, screwed, nailed and Glued intermittently but it is floating (use PL=Construction Glue) then the same ply on the other side of the Beam, then 2 new 2z10 long joists ..glued, nailed and screwed ..supported by the Brick wall already there..brick is a Great Material when combined with Wood..also avoid the Wood Touching Concrete..,.so add a layer of this mushy underfloor stuff or some old-time black roofing paper..and then rest your Beams on the Concrete…If you use Metal Posts, they can rest directly on the Concrete but if you want to cut the thermal Bridge, add a Plastic Mushy Foam Material underneath..it is more durable than Paper, but Paper may do ..if it is dry.Interior Foundation Crack Repair | Avoid Bad Patch Job in BasementAdd a French Drain on the Inside of the linked-to two Sum Pumps…Seal them Pits with Plastic or Steel Plates shut tight..keep an eye on the High Rain Periods, monitor pumps .(listen) sometimes there is a Power Outage, the Pumps don't Work. Find a Gravity-exit for the Water of the Drain oif possible.Have an Egress window or Patio Door at one End as a 2nd Exit or if you are Hip, have a Deep Pit with an Outdoor Shower outside..with Door Access and a Window next to it…if you Do that, add lots of Urethane, to keep the Frost from getting in…maybe have a translucent flexy Corrug Roof tPanels above the Pit o keep water away from the foundations and cut the wind and ice…A crack in the Attic Space..how big a Gap..maybe, they used wet greenwood when they built it..and it shrunk as it dried up.Is it a horizontal crack, a Vertical Crack, or at an Angle..How Big is that Crack..a Hairline crack or a quarter-inch Gap…maybe the Snow Loads..you may have to Brace it Somewhere..easily fixable…Houses with such Visible Things can Help you Haggle 10k for that and 10k for the rat you found in the Crawlspace under the House or Basement..How are the Foundations,.that is where cracks can do Harm..water Infiltration, the smell of Moisture..if you do decide to remodel the Basement, dig 18 inches, go add some hight..add 18 inches to them Foundations, Poor Concrete Below them, one section at a time..that way, you build Support, Do the next 8 ft ..etc..Go slow, Think twice, Measure Twice, Sleep On It. If you are willing to put in Some Elbow grease, no sweat. If not, get a referred Contractor friend (somebody that knows houses), a local architect or engineer or Home Inspector, or a Friend that knows Houses maybe another Agent to have a look at it, give you a Verbal opinion. If you don't mind spending $400usd.-500usd, get a written report.Are the cracks big enough to let them Bats in ..those little Critters..we are All sentient Beings..so, a friend of Mine is renovating a Castle in France, old strong Timbers, the pillar and post-construction ..and all seemed fine until they realized that the top 5 ft was housed by Bats.So what they Do..he hired an ecologist, who set up an infrared camera to see the trajectory of them Bats every Night and to see where their Point of Entry was. The Commune (County) gave him the Permit under the proviso or condition that he must incorporate a Space for the Bats…and to build a Point of Entry (louvers) to give them Free Access. They Do little Damage and keep the Flies at Bay.. That is the modern way of solving problems..in a Chill Way…lol