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Is the American Kennel Club(AKC) an ethical organization?

I consider them to be ethical.The important thing is to look at what they do and try to do as an organization. I see a lot of people hating on the AKC and mostly it comes down to misunderstanding what the AKC is and does rather than anything that the AKC actually did or didn’t do that was “unethical.”“Extreme” dogs.The AKC, as an organization, does not write breed standards. They are fairly unique in this respect when compared to other national kennel clubs. The AKC doesn’t even really have a set format for breed standards and they certainly don’t write the things. If you have a problem with the Bulldog standard (or how judges are educated to interpret that standard) then you need to go yell at the national breed club that wrote the standard, owns the standard, are the only ones who can change the standard, and provide the educational material and seminars for judges to learn how to judge according to the standard. The American Kennel Club decided very early on to be a “club of clubs” and to not micromanage breeds or breed standards. Becoming recognized by the AKC is something that a club does for a breed and that group of people still “own” the breed and the standard and are the ones to make changes, not the central AKC office or an employee of the AKC.“Inbreeding” dogs.The AKC is very hands-off as an organization. As noted above, they do not write the standards or teach judges what the written words mean. They also do not police breeding decisions - if the dog is the result of two registered purebreds, then it is eligible for registration, period. People like to get all up in arms about how the AKC doesn’t do enough to prevent inbreeding by not banning certain types of breeding (for comparison, here is what the Kennel Club, UK bans: The Kennel Club). You may argue that the AKC should restrict certain matings - but the reality is that there is always an exception, and that denying AKC registration to a litter has not proven to prevent the litter from being bred. Rather, the US already has a vast proliferation of lesser registries that would be more than happy to register those dogs.You also have to look at the flip side of this: many kennel clubs would refuse to register a purebred dog of purebred parents if it was born a non-standard color, matured to be undersized, or failed to pass particular tests (this is the case in Germany - many of these “failed” German Shepherd Dogs are “culled” - and by that I do mean lethally). If you want the AKC to not register a dog that is born from two close relatives, are you OK with them also refusing to register, say, a Labrador that was born with a white marking on the chest, or whose mother was 21″ instead of 21.5″ tall? Once the kennel club goes beyond recording ancestry, it quickly becomes much harder for any but a very narrow range of dogs to be registered (which, over time and ironically, results in a narrower gene pool and more inbreeding).“Puppy mills” and abusive breedersThe AKC is a non-profit, national organization with less than 500 employees. They register about 1 million dogs a year and run about 22,000 competitive events with over 3 million annual entries. They are not a police or law enforcement organization, and they are not large enough to police all breeders. They do have about 70 inspectors around the country who visit high-volume breeders and breeders who have complaints lodged against them. They do what they can to punish people who do not meet humane and record-keeping standards, but, again they are not law enforcement. They can do what any other non-profit club can do. That is, they can kick you out, and they can report you to the legal authorities and that’s about it.The proliferation of non-AKC registration organizations is almost entirely due to the fact that puppy mills were and are routinely being kicked out by the AKC. So, they started their own “kennel clubs” so that they could continue to sell “registered” dogs even though they were doing things shady enough to be kicked out of the AKC.Canine health and temperament standardsAnother common charge against the AKC is that dog shows are “just” about looks so that the AKC “encourages” breeding just for looks so that health and temperament suffer. The AKC, in reality, offers a wide range of competitions, only one of which considers “looks.” Conformation titles are intended to say that a dog physically meets the description of the written standard and is physically sound as it moves, etc. The AKC also offers titles in companion events (all-breed events that look at trainability such as obedience and agility) and performance events (working-focused events usually limited to particular breeds developed for certain tasks like hunting and herding). They also work closely with breed clubs and researchers to fund millions in health studies and record health testing results. Surprisingly few AKC breeders use just one venue - conformation, companion events, performance events, health testing - when making breeding decisions.Again, the AKC is a hands-off registry that keeps records of ancestry, earned titles, and health testing results in a centralized and standardized way. It is up to the breeder to decide which titles to attempt and what decisions to make based on the results. As an aside, I find it funny that the “extremes” are also held up to be in the conformation ring. Trust me, my first job was a gundog training kennel and for most sporting breeds the field folks are rushing to ruin far faster than the conformation folks. In either case, this is due to a subgroup of breeders who decide that only one thing or a few things matters even though the AKC provides many other venues for assessment.So… the AKC is primarily a record keeping organization that leaves most decisions up either to breed clubs or to individual breeders. They provide a wide variety of venues to assess dogs including not only conformation but also companion and performance events and they are heavily invested in canine health research and pre-breeding health testing. They are not the breeding police and they are not the animal welfare authorities. Most complaints about the AKC being “unethical” are really complaints that they fulfill their mission of being a “club of clubs” that keeps centralized, standardized records rather than an entirely different type of organization.

What is wrong with getting a dog from a dog breeder?

Some dog breeders are simply irresponsible. The term "backyard breeder" is sometimes used to describe dog breeders with little experience or knowledge. Typically, they breed dogs without taking the time to make good genetic matches, or to have dogs registered with the appropriate kennel club/breed club.Some backyard breeders are just looking to make a profit off of so-called purebred dogs that they own. They let them breed together without knowledge of their family histories (health and behavioral, in particular). They pay little or no attention to genetic health issues in both the parents and the puppies. They often charge less money for the puppies than a responsible breeder, but still more money than they should (no one should pay for puppies that were bred carelessly).Midwest WholesalesIf you are determined to get a purebred puppy, then you will probably want to start looking for a dog breeder. If "papers" (registration) or parentage are not important to you, then you should consider adoption instead. Seek out a breed-specific rescue group or even your local animal shelter. If you care about dogs, one of the worst things you can do is purchase a dog from a bad breeder. Perhaps the only thing worse is purchasing a puppy from a pet store; supporting a business that puts profit over the welfare of its animals is not something a true dog lover would ever do.When you find a dog breeder, it is essential that you check references. Talk to other families that have purchased dogs from that breeder. Check that the breeder is affiliated with the local and national breed clubs and a national kennel club (such as the AKC). Most importantly, make sure you visit the breeding facility and meet the puppies' parents (mother at least).Questions to Ask The Dog BreederWhat type of care is required for this specific breed? Does the breed have specific needs I should be aware of?The breeder should be able to give you detailed answers that confirm what you have learned from your own research on the breed.How long have you been breeding dogs? How long have you bred this specific dog breed?It should be several years, and the breeder will have ideally worked with a mentor at the beginning (someone else who had worked with the breed for a long time).Do you sell your dogs to pet stores, puppy brokers, wholesalers, or online?If the answer is "yes," walk away immediately.Can I visit the facilities where you breed and house your dogs?If the answer is "no," then run!Can I meet the litter of puppies and their mother?If the answer is "no," walk away. Note that it is normal for the father to be offsite.What is the health and behavior history of this line (parents, grandparents, etc)?The breeder should be able to tell you about the dogs going back a couple of generations.What genetic issues do you test the adult dogs for before breeding? What tests do the puppies get before you sell them?Research the breed and find out what tests (OFA, CERT, etc.) are recommended by the national breed club. If this breeder has not tested the dogs, you should look for another breeder.Can I see the breed registration papers for the puppies and their parents? If the breeder cannot produce these, leave without buying a puppy.Can I see the veterinary records of the puppies and their parents?If the breeder cannot produce these, walk away. If the breeder has the records, but the puppies have not been vaccinated or dewormed (and there are no plans to do so), walk away.What happens if my dog is diagnosed with a hereditary disease? Does the puppy I buy come with a guarantee?The answer should be that the breeder will take back the dog, and/or refund all or part of the fee you paid for the dog, and/or work with you to have the dog treated (if you want to keep the dog). A good breeder wants to know if the puppies remain in good health.What happens if I can no longer keep my dog?The breeder should tell you that you can return the dog if at any time in the dog's lifetime you determine you cannot keep it.Can you provide references from the owners of puppies from previous litters?If no, ask why not. The breeder should always have references.Other Warning Signs of a Bad Breederif the answers to the above questions are appropriate, there are still some things you should evaluate. Also, if you notice anything that just doesn't "feel right," then you should do some more research on the breeder. Here are some of the other signs that indicate you are dealing with an irresponsible breeder:Dogs in the facility appear to be in poor health.More than two or three types of dog breeds are being bred, or they breed a lot of unrecognized breeds, such as Cock-a-poos, Goldendoodles, etc.The dogs have no titles, either showing, working, or sports, whatever the animals are being bred for. This likely means the breeder does not breed to better the overall conformation or working style of the breed. Breeding solely for "pet quality" means breeding for money rather than for the betterment of the breed.There is no mandatory spaying/neutering of pet quality animals.They always have puppies for sale, sometimes two or three litters at a time.The breeder doesn't screen you or ask questions about your home environment and the life you can provide for the puppy.The puppies are ready to go before the proper age (under eight weeks of age).Advertises "rare" colors, sizes, or other traits (such as "rare" white Dobermans, or Great Danes, "king-sized" German Shepherds, etc.). These traits are often not in accordance with breed standards and can lead to health or behavior problems.They advertise or sells their puppies for greatly reduced pricesBreeds canines before the age of two.When talking to or meeting with a dog breeder, you must look at the facts, but also go with your gut. If something does not feel right, ask questions. If you have any doubts that the breeder is responsible, your best bet is to walk away. Start from square one, looking only for a responsible dog breeder.

Are Bulldogs good for first-time owners?

English Bulldog Holistic Care English BulldogsWhat Is The Definition Of An English Bulldog ?Sam Hanafy @2018An EB Obsessed!A Breeder (with a capital B) is one who thirsts forknowledge and never really knows it all, one whowrestles with decisions of conscience, convenience, andcommitment.A Breeder is one who sacrifices personal interests,finances, time, friendships, fancy furniture, and deep pilecarpeting! She Or He gives up the dreams of a long,luxurious cruise in favor of turning that all importantShow into this years "vacation".The Breeder goes without sleep (but never withoutcoffee!) in hours spent planning a breeding or watchinganxiously over the birth process, and afterwards,over every little sneeze, wiggle or cry.The Breeder skips dinner parties because that litter isdue or the babies have to be fed at eight. She disregardsbirth fluids and puts mouth to mouth to save a gaspingnewborn, literally blowing life into a tiny, helplesscreature that may be the culmination of a lifetime ofdreams.A Breeders lap is a marvelous place where generationsof proud and noble champions once snoozed.A Breeders hands are strong and firm and often soiled, butever so gentle and sensitive to the thrusts of a puppy'swet nose.A Breeders back and knees are usually arthritic fromstooping, bending, and sitting in the birthing box, but arestrong enough to enable the breeder to Show the nextchoice pup to a Championship.A Breeders' shoulders are stooped and often heaped with abuse from competitors, but they're wide enough tosupport the weight of a thousand defeats andfrustrations. Breeders arms are always able to wield a mop, support an armful of puppies, or lend a helping hand to anewcomer.A Breeders ears are wondrous things, sometimes red(from being talked about) or strangely shaped (frombeing pressed against a phone receiver), often deaf tocriticism, yet always fine-tuned to the whimper of a sickpuppy.Breeders eyes are blurred from pedigree research andsometimes blind to her own dog's faults, but they areever so keen to the competitions faults and are alwayssearching for the perfect specimen.A Breeders brain is foggy on faces, but it can recallpedigrees faster than an IBM computer. It's so full ofknowledge that sometimes it blows a fuse: it cataloguesthousands of good boning, fine ears, and perfect heads...and buries in the soul the failures and the ones thatdidn't turn out.The Breeders heart is often broken, but it beatsstrongly with hope everlasting...and it's always inthe right placeOh, yes, there are breeders, and then, there areBREEDERS!!!J of colors and patterns is short, smooth, and glossy. Bulldogs can weigh up to 50 pounds, but that won’t stop them from curling up in your lap, or at least trying to. But don’t mistake their easygoing ways for laziness—Bulldogs enjoy brisk walks and need regular moderate exercise, along with a careful diet, to stay trim. Summer afternoons are best spent in an air-conditioned room as a Bulldog’s short snout can cause labored breathing in hot and humid weather.The Bulldog, also known as the British Bulldog or English Bulldog, is a medium-sized dog breed. It is a muscular, hefty dog with a wrinkled face and a distinctive pushed-in nose. [4] The Kennel Club (UK), the American Kennel Club (US), and the United Kennel Club (US) oversee breeding records. Bulldogs are popular pets; they were the fifth most popular purebreed in the US in 2017 according to the American Kennel Club.[5]Bulldogs have a longstanding association with English culture, as the BBC wrote: "to many the Bulldog is a national icon, symbolising pluck and determination."[6] During World War II, Bulldogs were often likened to Prime Minister Winston Churchill and his defiance of Nazi Germany. [7] When the English settled in the Americas, their Bulldogs came with them. Dedicated bulldog fanciers formed The Bulldog Club (England) in 1878, and the Bulldog Club of America in 1890.AppearanceBulldogs have characteristically wide heads and shoulders along with a pronounced mandibular prognathism. There are generally thick folds of skin on the brow; round, black, wide-set eyes; a short muzzle with characteristic folds called a rope or nose roll above the nose; hanging skin under the neck; drooping lips and pointed teeth, and an underbite with an upturned jaw. The coat is short, flat, and sleek with colours of red, fawn, white, brindle, and piebald.[4]In the United Kingdom, the breed standards are 55 lb (25 kg) for a male and 50 lb (23 kg) for a female. [8] In the United States, a typical mature male weighs 50 lb (23 kg), while mature females weigh about 40 lb (18 kg). [4] The Bulldog Club of America recommends the average weight of a bulldog to be 40–50 lb (18–23 kg).Bulldogs are one of the few breeds whose tail is naturallyshort and either straight, screwed or thin and thus is not cut or docked as with some other breeds. A straight tail is a more desirable tail according to the breed standard set forth by the BCA if it is facing downward, not upwards.TemperamentPainting of a Bulldog from 1790 by English artist Philip Reinagle.Painting of a Bulldog by Arthur Heyer (1872–1931).The first reference to the word "Bulldog" is dated 1631 or 1632 in a letter by a man named Preswick Eaton where he writes: "procuer mee two good Bulldogs, and let them be sent by ye first shipp".[11] In 1666, English scientist Christopher Merret applied: "Canis pugnax, a Butchers Bull or Bear Dog", as an entry in his Pinax Rerum Naturalium Britannicarum.[12]The designation "bull" was applied because of the dog's use in the sport of bull baiting. This entailed the setting of dogs (after placing wagers on each dog) onto a tethered bull. The dog that grabbed the bull by the nose and pinned it to the ground would be the victor. It was common for a bull to maim or kill several dogs at such an event, either by goring, tossing, or trampling. Over the centuries, dogs used for bull-baiting developed the stocky bodies and massive heads and jaws that typify the breed as well as a ferocious and savage temperament. Bull-baiting was made illegal in England by the Cruelty to Animals Act 1835.[13] This amended the existing legislation to protect animals from mistreatment and included (as "cattle") snakes, dogs, owls, and donkeys, so that bull and bear-baiting as well as cockfighting became prohibited. Therefore, the Old English Bulldog had outlived its usefulness in England as a sporting animal and its active or "working" days were numbered. However, emigrants did have a use for such dogs in the New World. In mid-17th century New York, Bulldogs were used as a part of a citywide roundup effort led by Governor Richard Nicolls. Because cornering and leading wild bulls were dangerous, Bulldogs were trained to seize a bull by its nose long enough for a rope to be secured around its neck.[14] Bulldogs as pets were continually promoted by dog dealer Bill George.[15]Female BulldogDespite slow maturation so that growing up is rarely achieved by two and a half years, Bulldogs' lives are relatively short. At five to six years of age they start to show signs of aging.Though today's Bulldog looks tough, he cannot perform the job he was originally created for as he cannot withstand the rigors of running and being thrown by a bull, and also cannot grip with such a short muzzle. Although not as physically capable as their ancestors, decreased levels of aggression associated with modern bulldogs have resulted in far calmer temperament while remaining physically capable guards and companions.The oldest single breed specialty club is The Bulldog Club (England), which was formed in 1878. Members of this club met frequently at the Blue Post pub on Oxford Street in London. There they wrote the first standard of perfection for the breed. In 1894 the two top Bulldogs, King Orry and Dockleaf, competed in a contest to see which dog could walk 20 miles (32 km). King Orry was reminiscent of the original Bulldogs, lighter boned and very athletic. Dockleaf was smaller and heavier set, more like modern Bulldogs. King Orry was declared the winner that year, finishing the 20-mile (32 km) walk while Dockleaf collapsed.[16] The Bulldog was officially recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1886.[4]At the turn of the 20th century, Ch. Rodney Stone became the first Bulldog to command a price of $5,000 when he was bought by controversial Irish American political figure Richard Croker.HealthA 2004 UK survey of 180 Bulldog deaths puts the median age at death at 6 years 3 months. The leading cause of death of Bulldogs in the survey was cardiac related (20%), cancer (18%), and old age (9%). Those that died of old age had an average lifespan of 10 to 11 years.[2] A 2013 UK vet clinic survey of 26 Bulldogs puts the median lifespan at 8.4 years with an interquartile range of 3.2–11.3 years.[3] The UK Bulldog Breed Council website lists the average life span of the breed as 8–10 years.[17]Statistics from the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals indicate that of the 467 Bulldogs tested between 1979 and 2009 (30 years), 73.9% were affected by hip dysplasia, the highest amongst all breeds.[18] Similarly, the breed has the worst score in the British Veterinary Association/Kennel Club Hip Dysplasia scoring scheme, although only 22 Bulldogs were tested in the scheme.[19] Patellar luxation affects 6.2% of Bulldogs.[20]Some individuals of this breed are prone to interdigital cysts—cysts that form between the toes. These cause the dog some discomfort, but are treatable either by vet or an experienced owner. They may also suffer from respiratory problems. Other problems can include cherry eye, a protrusion of the inner eyelid (which can be corrected by a veterinarian), allergies, and hip issues in older Bulldogs.Over 80% of Bulldog litters are delivered by Caesarean section[21] because their characteristically large heads can become lodged in the mother's birth canal. The folds, or "rope", on a Bulldog's face should be cleaned daily to avoid infections caused by moisture accumulation. Some Bulldogs' naturally curling tails can be so tight to the body as to require regular cleaning and ointment. Due to the high volume of skin folds on the Bulldog's body, they have high prevalence of skin-fold dermatitis.[22]Like all dogs, Bulldogs require daily exercise. If not properly exercised it is possible for a Bulldog to become overweight, which could lead to heart and lung problems, as well as stress on the joints.[23]Bulldogs have very small nasal cavities and this makes them have great difficulty keeping their bodies cool. Bulldogs are very sensitive to heat. Extra caution should be practiced in warmer climates and during summer months. Bulldogs must be given plenty of shade and water, and must be kept out of standing heat.[4] Air conditioning and good ventilation are required to keep them healthy and safe. Bulldogs actually do most of their sweating through the pads on their feet and accordingly enjoy cool floors. Like all brachycephalic, or "short faced", breeds, Bulldogs can easily become overheated and even die from hyperthermia.[4] Bulldog owners can keep these issues under control by staying awareand protecting their Bulldog(s) from these unsafe conditions. They can be heavy breathers, and they tend to be loud snorers. In 2014 the Dutch Kennel Club implemented some breeding rules to improve the health of the Bulldog. Among these is a fitness test where the dog has to walk 1 km (0.62 miles) in 12 minutes. Its temperature and heart rate has to recover after 15 minutes.[24]In January 2009, after the BBC documentary Pedigree Dogs Exposed, The Kennel Club introduced revised breed standards for the British Bulldog, along with 209 other breeds, to address health concerns. Opposed by the British Bulldog Breed Council, it was speculated by the press that the changes would lead to a smaller head, fewer skin folds, a longer muzzle, and a taller thinner posture, in order to combat problems with respiration and breeding due to head size and width of shoulders.[25]Why Bulldogs Are Costing So Much?Before you get mind boggled when you hear the cost of a Bulldog, please take the time to educate yourself on what it takes to create this highly sought out the breed. There is no SHORT version of "Why English and French Bulldogs cost so much". But we will try to break it down as painlessly as possible for all of us either breeding or buying.What it takes to get you a happy healthy Bulldog to add to your family:[PHASE ONE] It begins with "So you want to raise bulldogs"? You think its easy money? The first thing that needs to happen is that it takes purchasing two amazing healthy Bulldog puppies to some day in the future make those adorable faces. Those two puppies weren’t cheap either. We pay more for puppies with breeding rights than pet buyers do. We searched all over the country to find a reputable breeder with dogs of quality and health history. We will have paid at least $5,000.00, usually more just to get our first two dogs as puppies. But wait, it's not money in the bank yet. Even after the purchase there is NO guarantee that either dog will be able to produce and breed each other successfully. Its always a 100% risk. You will have to raise those puppies for 18 months or longer until around time of the females second heat. You will pay to have the males sperm collected and checked to see if he has enough to produce those babies. (What if he can't?) You start all over again with a new male or pay someone else to use their stud. Until this females 'second' heat happens and everyday before and years after , they require love, attention. You must feed them high quality food everyday, 365 days a year. I know I spend $50 per month per dog. I'll do the math for you and that is a total $1200.00 a year just to feed two dogs. Most breeders have many more then two bulldogs. They will have routine vet care, need a place to sleep, play and poop. Not to mention someone has to clean up after them and constantly ensure them a good life. You can not half ass care for a bulldog and expect healthy litters in the future. IF your female can even get pregnant. Even then its no guarantee you have have a full healthy litter. She may not take and you spent all this money and no pups coming. No pressure right?[PHASE TWO] You want to have puppies? Are you SURE you know what you are in for? What’s the first step? Well if you don’t have your own male, you will have to pay for a stud to use. This will cost at least $500.00 up to $3,000.00 depending on a males color and pedigree and if he produces great puppies. He will be collected and if he isn’t yours or local a extender is added to keep those sperm alive. That breeder will race off to Fed Ex to get it to you overnight. You will pay the shipping which is average $150.00. You both begin to pray it gets delivered on time and sperm lived. What if it didn't? You might be completely screwed this heat cycle if you don't have a back up male close by. This is one small part of the journey to reproduce. We need to get back to the real matter of what will happen when the female begins her heat cycle long before the semen is even needed.You will anxiously have to figure out what is the best day to use that expensive chilled tube of creation. Bulldogs do not procreate naturally. Mother Nature doesn’t take its course here. Expensive Progesterone tests are required and you can easily pay for 1-5 tests. You need to try your hardest to know the best day to breed. You need to figure out when this girl ovulated. Those tests can run $40 to $200 depending on the area you live in. Not to mention your time and running back and forth to the vet for blood draws and chewing your nails off waiting to hear results. There are not many vets that have that $5000.00 P4 machine to test her nor are they close by you. A bulldog breeder may have to drive two or more hours to a bulldog specialist vet. Try doing that 5 times!!Here comes a sigh of relief! The day has arrived and she has hit her perfect number and is ready for the breeding. Grab your male or that box of magic that showed up by Fed Ex and off to the vet you go. She will under go either a AI (artificial insemination) or a SI (surgical insemination) to get that juice to her mature eggs. We will spend usually $250.00 to $1000.00 to surgically inject semen into her tubes. Add that to paying for that stud fee. Have you added this up yet just to get to today? Yes its several thousand dollars.[PHASE 3] Did she take? Did all this time, effort and money get us a litter on the way? What if she didn’t take? Sorry, no refunds and that money we just spent over the last 18 months is GONE! We have to wait six more months and try it again.Around 30 days after the breeding we will go to the vet and confirm with a ultrasound. Those can run $40 to $200.00(Have you been adding this up so far) We realize we skipped a lot more of expenses behind the scenes to get to this paragraph or you would be reading a novel. We don’twant you to lose your attention on the point we are trying to make. Moving on......OK, the 30 day wait if over....SHE IS PREGNANT! We have to watch her close for another 30 days for any signs of problems. Making sure she gets the proper diet and care. We pray she stays pregnant and watch for all the risks of losing this litter.[PHASE 4] She is in LABOR, the excitement begins and off to the vet we go. Sometimes its 3 am in the middle night with a mandatory c-section. Most bulldogs can't and shouldn’t give birth naturally and we don't risk her or the puppies trying. We can pay for a c-section anywhere from $400.00 to $2500.00 depending on the area and vet as well. Do you feel rich yet?Congratulations.... The Babies are here!! Our new mom wakes up from delivery not knowing what the heck those little things are or what to even do with them. We try to get home as quickly as possible and get these babies warm and with a lot of assistance get mom to lay down and let them eat for the first time. It may take 3 days for her to bond. She doesn’t have the natural birth process to produce oxytocin to help stimulate her milk and signal mothering to her brain.This is the official start of “Let the first two weeks begin” Also known as “team no sleep”. We will sleep right next to mom and babies. Wait, it’s more like NO SLEEP, 2 hr feedings, making sure babies pee and poop by wiping their bums. Did they get enough to eat? Are they staying warm on the heating pad? WHY do we have to be there? Bulldog Moms are clumsy and heavy. They will sit on them, accidentally kick them and will not care to make sure these fragile babies are latched and nursing. That is OUR full time job! We have to monitor them 24 hrs a day until their eyes are open, crawling around and can get to moms milk without assistance. We built a whelping box to try to help prevent mom from suffocating them by sitting or laying down. We stay next to them sometimes to three weeks of age. A bulldog puppy can crash fast for many reasons. They need to be kept warm with heating pads, heat lamps, blankets and towels that are changed daily. Babies may need to be in incubators with a oxygen concentrator as they do not regulate heat till 3 weeks of age. We can have tiny babies and they are high risk or born retaining water babies that have a high mortality rate. We are literally those babies lifeline and a bulldog with a milk bar we have to latch them to each feeding. We need to know how to suction noses and throats. We may have give milk supplements by bottle or tube feed if mom struggles with milk supply.[PHASE 5] Let the poop games begin. Four weeks old and they learn to eat puppy mush and water bowls. Here comes potty training. Toys, blankets, and still a lot of laundry each day keeping their area clean and fresh. Changing potty pads Rinsing out grass pads. Worming and shots, health check at the vet and micro chip them. Are you tired yet? Did you imagine it was this involved just to have a litter of puppies? No one does unless they are living it like we do.NOW❗️, more work time has come. Its time to take all those cute photos and start advertising the search for the right approved family to take all of your hard work, effort and sleepless nights home.How many people do we talk to before one is actually sold? We can't count. Why? Because of the same old question that starts the conversation.......HOW MUCH??? Followed by WHAT? Why so much? Its a DOG!!!Okay, take some deep breaths because here we go again with the same story that starts all over again for the 50th time this week. We start trying to explain just a hint of what we go through to even have a 8 wk old puppy for sale. The inquire usually ends with "I can't afford that" and they disappear with a thought of how much money we are making on just raising dogs. Don't forget those trying to buy one from us on their budget. Or the story of how they can't afford one, always wanted one and can we sell them one for the cost of a pair of shoes or even yet, give them one because the puppy would have the best life ever. NO, NO and NO. If you can't purchase a bulldog then you can't afford to properly care for one either. If you can't afford a trip to the vet for proper health care, more or less something serious, you need to get a cat. We don't work our butts off to take a discount and send this baby to a home that can't buy the quality food it needs to be healthy. Sorry so harsh but its the truth.Let’s finish things up now. We have made to the end of the road. The puppies have new homes. Once the puppies are sold, more work follows. We have to take each one for a vet health certificate. We spend a lot of time making sure the new family gets everything this baby needs and set up meeting or shipping each puppy. So we drive to the vets, drive to the airport, drive 3 hours to meet someone so they don't have to ship the puppy. More time, more money, more of our life.So why do we do it? Just look at those faces. We see your faces too. We love to see you light up with excitement and love how much enjoyment our bulldog creation is going to change your family.Finally!!!!!! We have all the puppies safely delivered to their new homes. Doesn't mean our job is done. We are still grinding away here each and every day taking care of the dogs that created those puppies. There is no break for us.So what's next? We wait till the next female comes in to heat.....and REPEAT.We have to be already raising new puppies now so they are old enough when your first female retires in under 4 yrs of age. It’s usually a 3 litter average and she could be done. So now you can try to divide these total expenses by three litters of 4 to 7 pups. How much did we make? We have to have new puppies we are already raising to be old enough by the time the adult female is 2 years old. We have to raise or buy the new puppy to repeat the cycle of the first mother. We are always over lapping. The job and the costs never end.The last point to make of a full time breeder, I know for me who has a average of four or five litters a year.......I only get a paid 4 times a year. I don’t get a weekly check like you do. I have to prepare to live long spans on anticipating my litter is born heathy and pups sold. Think about that!Appreciate your breeder. At least the ones who do it right.(You want the LONG VERSION? We don't have the time, we have Bulldogs to raise and look after. Take care and take your time in finding your first or your next Bulldog) 🤗.CharacteristicsThe English Bulldog has an equable and kind disposition; and is resolute and courageous. The characteristic demeanor is one of peace and dignity. These attributes are evident in the expression and behavior of the breed.Disqualifications: Viciousness or extreme shyness.HeadWhen viewed from the front, the head is broad and square. In profile, the head appears high and moderately short from the occiput to the point of the nose. The forehead is flat, never rounded or domed; and never too prominent nor overhanging the face.The well-defined temples (frontal bones) are broad, square and high, causing a deep furrow that extends from the stop to the middle of the skull. The stop is a deep, wide indentation between the eyes. The well-rounded cheeks protrude sideways and outward beyond the eyes.SKULLThe skull is relatively large in circumference, and appears high from the corner of the lower jaw to the apex of the skull.MUZZLEThe relatively short face is measured from the front of the cheekbone to the tip of the nose. The muzzle is turned slightly upward and is very deep from the corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth.The distance from the bottom of the stop (between the eyes) to the tip of the nose should not be less than the distance measured from the tip of the nose to the edge of the under lip.The jaws are broad and very square. Jaws should not be wry.The thick, broad, pendant flews, referred to as the "chops", are very deep. They completely overhang the lower jaw at each side. In front, they join the under lip, covering the teeth, which are not noticeable when the mouth is closed.Serious Fault: Wry mouth.TEETHA full complement of large, strong, white teeth meet in an undershot bite. The canines are wide apart; and the incisors are in an even, level row.Eliminating Faults: Teeth or tongue showing when the mouth is closed.EYESThe very dark eyes are quite round and moderate in size; never being sunken nor bulging. When the dog is looking directly forward, the lids cover the white of the eyeball. There is no haw showing.Viewed from the front, the eyes are situated low down in the skull well away from the ears. They are set in the front of the head and are wide apart but with their outer corners within the outline of the cheek, when viewed from the front. The eyes and the stop are set in the same straight line. Eyes are free from entropinism, cherry eye, and excessive amounts of loose skin. No white is showing while the dog is looking straight ahead.Serious Faults: Visible haw. Whites of eyes showing while dog is looking straight ahead.Eliminating Fault: Excessive amounts of loose skin around eyes.NOSEThe nose is large, broad and black in color. Its tip is set back deeply between the eyes. The wide, large nostrils are open. Nose roll does not protrude over the nostrils, constricting breathing.Very Serious Fault: Any nose color other than black in adult dogs.Eliminating Faults: Pinched nostrils. Over-nose roll, even if broken, that covers any part of the nose.EARSThe small, thin, "rose" ears are set high on the head. The front inner edge of each ear joins the outline of the skull at the top back corner of the skull, placing them wide apart and well away from the eyes.Very Serious Faults: Erect ears; prick ears; button ears; cropped ears.NeckThe short, thick neck is deep, strong, and well-arched. The skin is moderately loose, thick and wrinkled, forming a dewlap on each side from the lower jaw to the chest.ForequartersThe shoulders are very broad and muscular. They are widespread providing stability and great power.FORELEGSThe fairly short, stout forelegs are straight and muscular. They are set wide apart. The legs themselves are not curved or bandy. The low elbows allow free movement of front assembly. Pasterns are short, straight and strong.BodyThe body is moderately short and well knit, with stout limbs, well-muscled, and in hard condition, with no tendency toward obesity. The brisket and body are very capacious, and the chest is very deep and well let down between the front legs. Forechest is prominent. The body is well ribbed up behind the forelegs, and the ribs are well rounded. The back is short and strong, wide behind the shoulders and comparatively narrower at the loin. The topline is a distinguishing characteristic of this breed. There is a slight fall off behind the shoulders to the beginning of the back, which is the lowest part of the entire topline. It then rises to the loin, which is higher than the shoulders. The croup then curves downward to the set on of the tail, creating the arch that is distinctive to the breed. The belly is tucked up. When viewed from above, the English Bulldog’s outline should resemble a pear shape.HindquartersThe rear legs are strong and large, and they are slightly longer than the forelegs, which elevates the loin above the shoulders.HIND LEGSThe legs are long from hip to hock and short from hock to ground. The stifles are rounded and they turn very slightly outward, away from the body, which results in the hocks turning inward and the rear feet turning very slightly outward.FeetThe compact, thick feet are moderate in size. The toes are well split up and have high knuckles. The front and rear feet may point straight ahead or slightly outward. Flat feet or splayed toes should be penalized.Serious Faults: Flat feet. Splayed toes.TailThe short tail is set low, and has a thick root, a decided downward carriage and a fine tip. It may be straight or "screwed," but never curved or curly. A straight tail is cylindrical and is tapered uniformly. A screw tail has well-defined bends or kinks that may be abrupt or even knotty, but no portion of the tail may be elevated above the base or root. Absent, inverted or extremely tight tails should be heavily penalized.Serious Faults: No tail. Inverted tail. Tight tail.SkinThe skin is soft and fairly loose, especially at the head, neck and shoulders.WRINKLES & DEWLAP - The head and face may display some wrinkles. There should be two folds forming the dewlap at the throat, from the lower jaw to the chest.Eliminating Faults: Nose rolls overhanging or partially covering the nose.CoatThe short, straight coat lies flat and close, and is smooth, glossy and of a fine texture. There are no fringes, feathers or curls.ColorCoat color is uniform, pure, and brilliant. The various breed typical colors are to be preferred in the following order:1) Red brindle;2) All other brindles;(Note: to be considered perfect, brindles are to have a fine, even, and equal distribution of the composite colors.)3) Solid white;4) Solid red, fawn, or yellow;5) Piebald;6) Inferior specimens of all the foregoing. (Note: a perfect piebald is preferable to a muddy brindle or a defective solid color. Solid black and black and tan are very undesirable, but black is not so objectionable if occurring, to a moderate degree, in piebald patches.)Note: A small white patch on the chest is acceptable in brindles and solid-colored dogs. Color patches on piebalds are expected to be well-defined, of pure color, and symmetrically distributed.Disqualification: Albinism.WeightDogs are to be fit and without excess weight. The weight range for mature males is from 50 to 55 pounds.The weight range for mature females is from 45 to 50 pounds.Serious Faults: Males over 55 pounds; females over 50 pounds.GaitMovement and carriage are distinctive to the breed. There is a characteristic roll to the gait, which allows effortless movement without the pounding of the front assembly on the floor, or having the rear assembly so turned in or out as to cause cow-hocked or spread-hocked rear movement. Movement is somewhat constrained, moving with short, quick steps on the tips of the toes. The rear feet appear to skim the ground; they should not be lifted high. They always appear sound and efficient while in motion.Eliminating Faults(A dog with an Eliminating Fault is not to be considered for placement in a conformation event, nor are they to be reported to UKC.)Teeth or tongue showing when the mouth is closed.Pinched nostrils.Over-nose wrinkle, even if broken, that covers any part of the nose.Disqualifications(A dog with a Disqualification must not be considered for placement in a conformation event, and must be reported to UKC.)Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid.Viciousness or extreme shyness.Albinism.Bringing Your New Baby HomeEar wash with a drying agentHarness ( figure 8 style)Leash 6'Stainless water and food bowlsDoggie water bottle to connect to crateWashable dog mat for crateDoggie bedChew toys ( never rawhide or bully sticks)Treats- we like biljac or wellness puppy treats for puppies and milkbone grainfree for adultsCrate - 24" for puppies and 36" for adultsBaby wipesDestin to keep folds dry and protectedTropiclean puppy shampooPuppy food. puppies are weaned to Royal Canin bulldog puppy food. We recomend that you feed this until at least 4-6 months of age and up to 1 year. Other recommended foods are Natural Balance duck and potato puppy if under a year or adult if over a year. Adult dog food proposals are: Natural Balance Duck and Potato, Natures Recipe White fish and Rice (this is what our adults are doing great on) or Hill's Ideal Balance salmon and sweet potato.We recommend interceptor plus for heart-worm prevention and Nexgard for flea and tick control. ALL of our puppies are required to be kept on heart-worm prevention and flea control. These products will be available through your veterinarian.Potty TrainingBulldogs start the Process of potty trained at 2-3 weeks of age to help ensure a smoother process for you.When our puppies are 2-3 weeks old we introduce them to cedar pet shavings in a litter box. Puppies learn very quickly to potty in their litter box and keep a clean sleep and play area. When pups are old enough to go outside they are introduced to a fenced area that has the same cedar chips material. Taking pups to the cedar chips area that they are familiar as a potty area and keeping them on a schedule helps greatly with potty training.Once you take your puppy home you may find it helpful to have an area with the same type shavings during potty training.Remeber to always keep your puppy on a schedule. Take your pupy outside as soon as he or she wakes up in the morning and when he or she wakes from any naps. Take your puppy outside after every meal and every time you arrive home.

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