Total Warranty Services: Fill & Download for Free

This is one of those answers with a “sell by” date. If asked two weeks ago, Michigan would have been in the answer, but after a dismissal of a lawsuit with stipulations this month, Tesla can now show, deliver and repair its cars in the state (they still can’t transfer title in state, but that can be worked around).The issue is independent franchised auto dealers. Some states prohibit manufacturers from selling cars directly in those states, requiring sales to made through independent dealers. Some states even go so far as to prohibit manufacturers from fixing their cars or providing warranty service. Other states have limited the number of sales points Tesla is allowed in the state.The list of states with total sales bans (as of February 4, 2020) is:New MexicoAlabamaSouth CarolinaLouisianaTexasConnecticutWest VirginiaWisconsinNebraskaOklahomaOne way to follow this issue with updates is through the Wikipedia article: Tesla US dealership disputes

I agree with the other posters here, but I think the biggest mistake, when buying new or used (but particularly new) is to say to the salesman "I can afford $XXX Payment per month." Wow...that way they can put you in a small, cheap car that meets your payment but is hugely overpriced and profitable for them. Think about it...they can increase the term (up to 7 years now, I think...) and the total price to meet your payment on a low-priced, lower model car. NEVER, NEVER start with (OR EVER SAY) "I can afford $XXX per month for a payment." Never. They will even ask you that pretty early in the process...it is to their benefit. Don't fall for it. Car dealers need to make a profit to stay in business and provide parts, accessory and warranty service/regular service for you, but there's no need to maximize their profit from you. Focus on the total, overall price, be prepared to refuse the "extras" the Finance and Insurance guy will try to sell you when you are finished with the salesman. Dealers can make money from your financing (if they get you to pay a higher interest rate they get a cut of that). Get online approval from an independent finance source at a great rate before you go visit the dealer and have that approval with you and be prepared to show it and use it to buy the car. But don't show it until you've negotiated the overall, total "out the door" price of the car, and then the dealer will usually match or beat it. Don't forget, you do NOT HAVE to buy the car...even sitting at the desk doing the final paperwork. Until you sign and walk out with the keys, you do NOT have to buy the car. Be prepared to walk out at any time. There are plenty of fish in the sea...yes, there are even more cars just like the one you are looking at, at other places. Hope this helps.

Yes. The oil pump is fixed displacement in most engines (there are some with variable-displacement pumps, but we’ll just skip over that for a moment), and the demand (the flow required to supply bearings, etc.) is not particularly RPM-dependent (again, there are exceptions).Pumps don’t make pressure, they make flow. Pressure is the resistance to that flow. So if you have your pump making more flow, but the resistance to that flow doesn’t change, system pressure goes up.In the case of engine oil, other factors affecting measured oil pressure include temperature and oil viscosity. Assuming you’re using the manufacturer’s recommended oil, though, that’s not really going to change as much as temperature does. Higher temperatures tend to lower the effective viscosity of the oil, which lets it flow easier, lowering the resistance to flow, and may lower the oil pressure versus cold oil at the same RPM. Additionally, clearances inside the engine change with temperature, further impacting flow resistance.In most US domestic-maker cars (GM, Ford, Chrysler), the oil pressure gauge (“gage” (sic) if it’s a GM product) is designed with a HUGE flat spot in its response curve. The needle quickly comes up to the “NORMAL” range and stays there unless something goes horribly wrong. The temperature gauge is similar in that regard. Turns out that many US auto customers tell marketers they want gauges instead of warning lights, but if the gauges actually respond accurately (temperature changes with speed, load, RPM, and ambient temp, for example), those same people bring them back to the dealer for warranty service because the gauge needles move in response to changes as they drive the car. There’s *nothing* wrong with the vehicle, mind you. But the dealer will replace an oil pressure sending unit or a thermostat and charge the OEM for the warranty repair that was totally unnecessary. So to counter that, the OEMs started putting those flat spots in the gauge response curves. The gauges are thus, yes, basically idiot lights (note that there are still idiot lights for oil pressure and temperature) that look like gauges to make the customer believe they’re monitoring vehicle conditions.Most European and Asian automakers don’t bother with that nonsense and let the gauges work properly. So the needles will move with changes in speed, RPM, load, and ambient temperature. As they should: an automobile is rarely operating in a steady-state condition (perhaps a highway cruise across I-70 in eastern Kansas or I-80 in eastern Nebraska with the cruise control set comes close, but even those roads aren’t really continuously flat).