Diesel Extended Life Coolant: Fill & Download for Free

There is no single coolant for diesel applications.Diesel Engines without wet cylinder sleeve liners a perfectly fine with traditional automotive [car] antifreeze. Wet cylinder sleeve liners which make overhauling large diesel engines cost effective create a problem for antifreeze. These liners vibrate at high speed during when the engine is running which does not occur with traditional bored block. This vibration cause tiny air bubbles to form and these air bubble contact the sleeves with such force over time they will actual pit and cause holes in the sleeves which is catastrophic. see http://www.howardenterprises.com/Portals/0/PDFs/Cavitation%20Erosion.pdfSo Antifreeze for Diesel engines must include a means of cavitation protection. Until recently this was done by adding Nitrites and/or molybdates to antifreeze. Such antifreezes are generally referred to a fully-formulated or Heavy duty. Over time nitrate and molybdates are depleted and must be constantly reintroduced. Hence the need for SCA’s (supplemental coolant additives) which can bought in liquid form and added to coolant or as slow dissolving solids Incorporated into Coolant filters.These worked very well until The introduction of more exotic aluminums into the diesel cooling systems especial radiators. Nitrites at level need to protect against cavitation is corrosive to aluminum, https://www.researchgate.net/publication/262959573_The_Reaction_Between_Aluminium_Metal_and_Aqueous_Solutions_of_the_Nitrite_IonThere are now Heavy duty ELC [Extended Life Coolants] that are nitrite free that still provide the necessary cavitation protectionSo whether you need a Fully formulated Conventional Coolant with Nitrites added and periodic SCA addition or an ELC (extend Life Coolant) with a NOAT {Nitrited OAT} formula which is good for 300,000 mile or 600,000 with extender pak or a Nitrite free ELC good for the same 300,00 or 600,000 with extender pak depends on age of the engine and the material used.

This is not near as bad as it is often made out to be. Here's the issue. When the 6.0 came out, Ford was expecting the new CJ4 spec oil to be on the market, as well as ultra low sulfur diesel. Neither were. As such, the engines often ran hotter than intended, oil cooler got plugged up, and this then caused even more heat. Trucks that were meticulously maintained often had no issues, and once the new oil was out, stayed reliable and are to this day. Trucks that got synthetic from caring owners also never seemed to have problems. Another factor was Fords decision to use G05 extended life coolant. It is good stuff if changed out on schedule every 3 years, but if not, it begins to crystalize. Those crystals stuck in the oil cooler, furthering the original problem. The aftermarket quickly came out with better coolers, and these almost completely solved the issue, but so did synthetic oil and good maintainence. I would gladly buy a 6.0 if I knew it was well cared for and had service records. I would use synthetic 5w40 year round and switch the coolant out for Motorcraft Specialty Green, and then change that on time as well. The 6.0 if cared for is much less probelematic than the 6.4, which has an idiotic emissions system that dumps raw fuel into cylinder 8 to burn out the DPF. It is also more fuel efficient and powerful than the old 7.3 that some think is the “best engine ever made”. 7.3s have their own issues as well. They will run forever with poor maintenance, yea, but they will leak oil the entire time. The other persons answer about the IDI motors is in a way correct. The 6.9 and 7.3IDI are practically bulletproof, but power wise they lag behind. Turbos and pumps can fix that, but the question then becomes what is it worth to you to spend over just getting a newer truck.

Note: I am not an expert on diesel engines, but I will share what I know.What does “kind of old” mean? 30 years? 50? Before 1990?The new extended life Propylene Glycol antifreeze based on Organic Acid Technology can attack the silicone-based sealants and gaskets used in old engines and possibly the lead-soldered joints in the cooling system (radiator, etc.)Speaking directly to your question, you did not specify the make and model of the engine so I cannot give you an absolute answer based on manufacturer advice (if it’s even available.) I don’t know of a reason why you should not use a 50/50 ratio of a quality heavy-duty Ethylene Glycol antifreeze for diesel engines and distilled water. However, I don’t know anything about your engine, your tech, or the reason he gave. I would ask him directly—why not use a heavy-duty ethylene glycol mix coolant made specifically for diesel engines? The kind with a coolant conditioner already added.The wrong coolant CAN cause problems in diesel engines. Without getting technical, the heat and vibration on the cylinder sleeves can cause cavitation bubbles in the coolant which erodes the cylinder sleeves, and eventually results in a catastrophic failure.If it were me and I wasn’t satisfied with the Tech’s answer to the question, I’d get a second opinion. If he can’t give a reason that makes sense based on what happens with the antifreeze, I’d for sure get another opinion.If you DO end up using coolant, be sure to use heavy duty coolant mix made for diesel engines. Change it according to the antifreeze manufacturer’s direction, which probably means at least once per year. It’s a cheap alternative to replacing an engine or buying a new generator.And please, dispose of that coolant properly. It’s a deadly poison that takes forever to decompose.