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So all you want is power, eh?I’ll give you power and also the looks, but you’ll regret it if you actually buy those parts, cuz it’s a whole lot of money.Parts for your computer -CPU - Intel core i7 6950X OC’ed to 4.4 Ghz. - $1,649.99A ten core overclockable CPU that will blow through anything you throw at it, even the most intense of work loads. Overclocking will help with poorly designed programs/games that do not utilize hyperthreading or multiple cores. It’s the highest end enthusiast i7 out there at the time of this writing.RAM - Corsair Dominator Platinum Special Edition in Chrome (8 x 16GB at 3200MHz) - $739.98In order to buy this, you will need to order 4 units of Corsair Dom. Plat. Special Editions, which is forbidden by the Corsair website. You will need to order two units yourself and send money to a friend, who will order 2 units for you. Why I chose this? You get 128 gigs of goddamn memory. That’s more gigs than some people’s boot drives. You wanted power, I’ll give you power, but for a high price. Besides the looks, this monster can OC to higher clock rates, and to find out more about the special edition RAM, click here.Motherboard - ASUS RAMPAGE V EXTREME EDITION 10 - $560.57This motherboard is a beauty and an overclocker’s dream, so if you get it, you place your hands on a majestic motherboard that provides one of the world’s finest overclocking. Plus, the board comes with RGB lights if that’s your thing. This board will be perfect for getting your 10 core i7 6950X to the desired 4.4GHz clock speed.Video Cards - NVIDIA GeForce GTX Titan X (Pascal) in 2 way SLI - $2,400This graphics card renders many things incredibly. It supplies power. A lot of power. With 2 of these, you’ll get even more power. With the right cooling, you can overclock these GPUs without thermal throttling. Once again, you ask for power, and I’ll deliver. For your SLI Bridge, you should get the EVGA HB SLI Bridge - $39.99. It’s the same as other HB SLI Bridges, but I think it looks the best of all of them.Storage - Samsung 960 Pro 2TB - $1299.99 paired with a Western Digital Black Series 6 Terabyte HDD - $269.99With a net of 8TB, you get storage for years. The 960 Pro provides the latest NVMe technology to the table, which you will utilize, and the Western Digital Black Hard drives are the most performance optimized hard drives out there. Plus, the hard drive has a long warranty, which shows how much WD believes in the Black Series HDDs build quality and overall quality.Power Supply - Corsair HX1000 - $199.99This power supply is 80 Plus Platinum, which offers very good efficiency. It comes with a whopping power output of 1000 watts, overkill for your system. Plus, the fan never turns on most of the time, so it’ll be silent. And when the fan turns on, the PSU is quiet and still, inaudible.Case - Corsair Obsidian Series 750D Airflow Edition - $179.99This case is a really cool full tower chassis that offers many water cooling options for your high end components. With this case, you can custom water cool all your components really well and maintain cool temperatures.Cables - CableMod ModMesh Custom Sleeved Power Supply CablesAt the CableMod Configurator, you can customize your own Power Supply Cables, which make your computer look really nice. Since you are jamming the world’s greatest hardware in one system, you should, or at least I think you should, show off your system to yourself and other people by adding custom sleeved cables instead of using the ketchup and mustard mess that comes stock with some Power Supplies.Cooling - EK Water Block Custom Loop with hard tubingYou’re going to want to set up your loop like this, but use straight glass tubing and right angle fittings only. Also, mount the 280mm radiator shown at the bottom of the case at the front of the case so that the water flowing through would be cooled better. This will make your computer run at low temperatures and make it look slick at the same time. Also, put all radiators in push pull configuration to achieve maximum cooling.With custom water cooling, you get the desired temperatures for insane overclocking. Plus, it adds aesthetics to your computer.Fans - Noctua NF-A14 industrial PPC 2000 RPM PWM Fans / Noctua NF-F12 industrial PPC series fans - $25.75 and $29.99 respectivelyMany people, including me, consider Noctua to be the manufacturer of the word’s best performing chassis fans. With a max noise level of 31.5dbA and 107.5 CFM, the 140mm NF-A14 is one incredible fan. The 120mm version is just as quiet and has 71.8 CFM. You can customise these fans as well by switching out the dark brown rubber vibration dampeners. These fans are incredible.Total Price of Tower not including custom watercooling loop, custom cables, and fans - A whopping $7340.49 + tax + shippingPeripherals and Accessories -Monitors -If you are gaming, I would suggest one of these two monitors:Acer Predator X34 - $1099.99LG 38UC99 - $1499.99If you desire G-Sync and the absolute smoothest gameplay with an immersive experience, I would suggest you buy the Acer Predator X34 because it provides a monitor that is capable of being overclocked to 100hz and also Nvidia G-Sync, which would make games buttery smooth with little screen tearing. The panel is a 34 inch diagonal IPS display with a resolution of 3440p x 1440p. Not to mention it’s a curved monitor as well.if you are looking for more real estate, go with the LG 38UC99 It’s a 37.5 inch diagonal IPS display with a resolution of 3840x1600. Instead of G-Sync, you get FreeSync, which is basically G-Sync for AMD GPUs. And instead of getting a 100hz overclockable monitor, you get a 75hz overclockable monitor. Gaming on this monitor would be very nice, albeit not as smooth and buttery as the Acer predator. However, you do get more detail and a more immersive experience because of the higher resolution and larger screen. Oh, and by the way, the monitor is curved.If you are not gaming, I would suggest three Dell 2717D 2560p x 1440p monitors - $1407 for all 3 monitors, $469 per monitor.Three of these would offer a lot of room for multitasking, and the bezel-less design makes dragging windows left and right a seamless experience. This panel is also IPS, and it has amazing color accuracy.Keyboard - WASD V2 TKL Mechanical Keyboard - $145.00Made of extremely high quality materials and PBT Keycaps, the WASD V2 TKL Mechanical Keyboard is a customizable keyboard that is an extremely good keyboard choice for any environment. These keyboards have the same excellent quality as keyboards manufactured by Ducky, cost a little less, and have fully customizable keycaps. TKL is a good option for people who don’t use the numberpad a lot. Instead of having a number pad, you get to keep your mouse closer to the alphanumeric keys of your keyboard, which feels more comfortable than having to use your mouse farther away from where you would type. If you do desire to have a numberpad, WASD also proides a V2 full size mechanical keyboard as well.Mouse -If you are gaming, then I would suggest the Logitech G900 Chaos Spectrum - $149.99This mouse is a great gaming mouse. It’s a wireless gaming mouse that beats out most wired gaming mice. It’s modular, so you can remove or put in the buttons on the side of the mouse. It’s got the PMW3366 optical sensor, which is regarded as the best optical sensor on the market, and a DPI range of 200–12000 DPI. The left and right click buttons are separate from the body of the mouse, so clicking is extremely smooth. It has Logitech’s famous free-scroll mechanism, DPI up/down shifters, and RGB lights. The mouse charges through a micro-usb cable, and if you connect the cable to your computer, you can use your mouse while it’s charging. In summary, this is one hell of a mouse.If you are mainly doing work instead and desire a really comfortable mouse with cool productivity features, get the Logitech MX Master - $99.99This mouse is the successor to the Logitech Performance MX, a mouse many content creators and customers regarded as legendary. This mouse not only looks better, but it brings a lot of new features to the table. It has Logitech’s free-scroll technology, so if you scroll hard on the scroll wheel, the wheel will automatically engage free scroll and spin freely. This is very useful when scrolling through many documents. It also has a horizontal scroll wheel, so those who edit videos who need to scrub through footage may find this horizontal scroll wheel very useful. the thumb rest also serves as a button, used to activate gesture macros that you can program with Logitech’s easy-to-use software. This mouse connects to your PC via a USB dongle, or it can connect via bluetooth to 3 different devices. So you can use it with 4 different devices, 3 using bluetooth and 1 using the USB dongle. This mouse, like the G900, charges through a micro-USB cable. If the cable is connected to the PC, you can use the mouse while it’s charging. In summary, this is also one hell of a mouse.Edit: The custom watercooling loop wasn’t that optimal because water goes straight from the GPU’s to the CPU without getting cooled first by a radiator, so I trashed the first image showing the 750D custom loop design in favor of a different one.Edit: Price of tower included in answer, including price of all individual components.

The National Reconnaissance Office operates the Keyhole series of satellites whose mission it is to photograph areas of the Earth for strategic purposes. These telescopes are the size of the Hubble Space Telescope, or about the size of a bus, and mass 12 tons apiece. Their resolution is generally held to be a few centimetres at their operating height above the Earth, c. 200 miles, though no-one outside the NRO knows for sure.The camera package on NASA’s Lunar Reconnaissance Orbiter (the lunar satellite that took the pictures of the Apollo landing sites and most of the rest of the Moon)) is roughly 40 lbs; the satellite itself masses one ton. It would not be unreasonable to suppose that putting a Keyhole satellite in orbit around the Moon would cost at least twelve times as much as putting the LRO there, thereby depriving NASA’s budget of the equivalent of twelve other probes of LRO’s ilk, for the dubious return of pictures of the moon’s surface at a resolution capable of spotting lunar astronauts’ individual footprints. There would be very little scientific utility in doing this.The New Horizons probe that photographed Pluto masses about a half-ton. It would probably cost 20 times as much to fly a Keyhole satellite past Pluto as New Horizons, and NASA would lose the use of the other sensors on board New Horizons, and it might not be able to take better pictures anyway, considering that it would have to take them while flying past at several miles a second in very dim light.As always, there are trade-offs to be made while designing the probe: every pound you add to camera weight deprives one of the other instruments of a pound, or adds a pound to mission weight which adds several pounds to rocket weight. The question is always whether you get anything useful with that gain in weight that makes it worth it. So the answer is that the cameras are as good as NASA needs them to be, and no more.

Can you? Sure. Canon, Nikon, and Pentax DSLRs with APS-C sensors will natively mount lenses made for full-frame. Sony mirrorless APS-C cameras will natively mount Sony full-frame lenses. Canon EOS M cameras can use Canon full-frame lenses via Canon's own adapter. Fujifilm APS-C cameras can mount full-frame lenses via third party adapters. Even Micro Four Thirds cameras can mount full-frame lenses via third party lenses, as shown here with my actual camera and a lens I own.As my photo illustrates, one of the classic reasons for using a full frame lens on a cropped body is telephoto reach. That 400mm f/4.5 lens on my Olympus gives me an 800mm reach with the depth-of-field still, of course, the same as you'd have on a full-frame. When you're manually focusing a long lens, that is a Good Thing. Of course, if you had an 80 megapixel full-frame camera, you could get the same shot by cropping… but you don't have an 80 megapixel full frame camera. Not yet.Of course, you could get this same effect with a 400mm lens and a 2x teleconverter. Now, here's the problem we run into. Teleconverters have a bad reputation for softening to downright clobbering the image quality, and rightly so for some teleconverters. But a very good teleconverter, particularly one designed with knowledge of the lens its boosting, won't have a profound negative effect on that lens. And yet, your teleconverter lens is never quite as good as the bare lens. Even if the teleconverter were perfect, you can think of it as, in cropping that image, you're actually magnifying the lens defects. And that's exactly what you do when you put a full-frame lens on a relatively high megapixel cropped body. In fact, you have made that optically perfect teleconverter by doing that.Matching Optical ResolutionNow, will it matter? Every lens you put on your camera has a measurable optical resolution. It's not a megapixel measurement, it's really more of an analog bandwidth measurement. But you can ask and even experimentally measure, with this Canon 400mm f/4.5 lens (or any lens), what actual effective resolution can I capture. And if that's only 32 megapixels on a full frame, it can't be more than 8 megapixels on a M43 camera like my EM-1 Mark II in the photo. In this particular case, the lens is good enough… but it's an older lens I got cheap, years ago.So for the APS-C in question, some more math! The typical 24 megapixel sensor in an APS-C camera has the same pixel pitch as a full-frame sensor at 54 megapixels… or 61.4 megapixels for Canon, just as the Micro Four Thirds, a 20 megapixel sensor matches the pixel pitch of an 80 megapixel full-frame sensor from before. Now, consider that until Sony's A7IV announcement last week, the highest resolution full-frame camera was 50 megapixels. Now it's 61 megapixels.When you shoot at 24 megapixels, that’s just the resolution of the sensor. As many APS-C users have discovered, the $35-$50 kit lens that comes with the camera does not actually deliver a great image. If you shot a resolution chart, as shown, with that camera/lens combination, you would find out that your effective resolution — your true optical resolution — would fall quite short of the 24 megapixels you think you purchased.This was understood by Canon when they more than doubled digital resolution in the Cano EOS 5DS. Do all of the full-frame lenses made by Canon truly deliver an honest 50 megapixels for their 50 megapixel EOS 5DS? Nope… in fact, Canon published a list of recommended lenses, years back. Sony doesn't yet have such a list for the A7IV, but someone will, soon.The camera benchmarking company DxO supports this same idea in their testing with what they dub Preceptual Megapixels (P-MPix). In short, they do the testing I suggest here, using lens-sensor combinations, and rate the effective resolution of the system. Note that no ordinary camera will ever rate at its full physical resolution with any lens in this testing, because the camera's de-matrixing (and in some cameras, the anti-aliasing filter) will reduce the effective optical resolution.SWAPEvery lens design embraces a series of tradeoffs on cost, size, weight, speed, and sharpness. Lens designers don't necessarily consider a super high resolution target if no such camera even exists. Some get there anyway, some do not. Today's higher resolution sensors are having an effect: Canon, Nikon, and Sony mirrorless lenses are being designed to higher specs… they also cost more and they're larger and heavier.On Sony, Nikon, and Canon, you have a problem. All three companies pretty much consider APS-C a consumer format. Canon and Nikon both make full-on professional APS-C bodies, Sony makes an intermediate model, and yet, they offer few to none high end APS-C lenses. Could they? Sure… look at Fujifilm. Every Fujifilm X series lens is designed for APS-C, including a large lineup of professional lenses. And not surprisingly, many Fujifilm photographers feel they get results comparable to full-frame. Do they? Probably not in the extreme, but for average shooting situations with similar sensor resolution? Yup. Fujifilm lenses are designed to a higher linear resolution target than most full-frame lenses.Even on Micro Four Thirds, Olympus PRO and Panasonic Leica lenses deliver higher optical resolution than the sensor demands, high enough to make “hires" multi-shot photos a useful thing. M43 lenses across the board are designed to a higher linear resolution target than most full-frame lenses.How? One of the tradeoff in lens design is image circle — how big is the area of the image when focused. To cover a full frame sensor, you need a larger image circle than for an APS-C sensor, a Micro Four Thirds sensor, etc. The lens sharpness, measured as linear resolution, is inversely proportional to image circle size for the same basic lens design. In short, you have about the same total resolution for a similar lens design, but the last stages of that lens decide whether that total resolution is spread over a full-frame circle or something smaller (this is oversimplifying, but the basic idea).You probably understand this, even if you weren't thinking about it this way. This is why that kit lens on your APS-C camera may not produce images, in ideal conditions, as your smartphone does, even with a sensor that's 1/15th the size… and a plastic lens! If this were not so, phone cameras would still have 1–2 megapixel sensors.So, What To Buy?If you’re thinking about an upgrade at some point to full-frame, go ahead and buy a good full-frame lens today. You may still get better image results than your kit lens. And as well, the design issue here only addresses effective resolution. You still get increased contrast, weather sealing, excellent bokeh, any of the other advantages of that lens on your crop-sensor camera.However, if you’re sticking with crop sensor, look into a higher-end lens made for a crop sensor camera. That’s automatic with Fujifilm or Olympus/Panasonic/M43. Canon EOS M lenses are all designed for APS-C, but Canon still treats that system primarily as a consumer market system, so don’t expect an APS-C L series lens any time soon.But the whole world is not your OEM camera company. Sigma, for example, makes some very good APS-C lenses, even in their Art series, which is their answer to pro glass, like Canon’s L, Olympus’ PRO, Sony’s G Master, Panasonic-Leica, etc. I did this as well. When I first bought my Canon 60D, I had some lower-end glass left over from my Canon EOS Rebel Xt. Those lenses were probably just dandy on an 8 megapixel camera, but going to a more modern 18 megapixel sensor, I could see the problem. I looked at Canon’s lineup, but for the most part, they didn’t have what I wanted — a mid-to-high-end “normal zoom” at f/2.8 and also, at wide-to-tele focal lengths appropriate to an APS-C sensor. I could buy low-end APS-C or pro level full-frame that was just wrong for my camera, and very possibly not a big improvement given the resolution issue.So I opted for a Sigma lens, the Sigma 18–50mm f/2.8 EX DC Macro lens. This was before Sigma’s Art series. I had trepedations: Sigma had screwed us Canon users before, with EOS lenses sold in the film era that simply didn’t work on digital bodies (the reverse-engineered the EF lens protocol, rather than licensing it from Canon, and made some mistakes, which they would be happy to fix… for about the price I had paid for my lens in the first place). But I was happy with that lens. I did eventually upgrade to full-frame and sold the lens along with the 60D. Later on, having slowly started using the Olympus/M43 system increasingly over about 5–6 years, and getting results similar to my Canon system (though better lenses, IBIS and other features, and more modern sensors), I sold the whole Canon system last year.Or Don’tWhile I did make this all about resolution, that’s mostly because everyone discussing APS-C cameras seems to entirely miss this. But it’s not the only issue.Again, the very good reason to buy full-frame lenses for APS-C bodies is the fact you have or plan to have full-frame bodies at well. Especially for Canon, since Canon’s EF-S lenses for APS-C bodies won’t mount on full-frame cameras. On other systems, the APS-C lenses mount, but you have to crop your full-frame sensor to use them, which is also a problem. So planning today for the future is one option… and actually the one these companies want you to take. That’s also one reason they don’t make high-end lenses for their APS-C bodies: they figure you’ll upgrade to full-frame if you’re serious. And in fairness to them, casual DSLR owners rarely buy many lenses.However, if you’re looking to a new lens to improve your photography, if you were in a position to really know if that’s what you needed, you wouldn’t be asking around on Quora. There are dozens of things you can learn, online and totally free, that will improve your photography immensely, regardless of camera and lens. That’s primarily going to address the art of photography, but also the technical parts you may not be exploring. These include:Learning to “shoot manually,” which is kind of shorthand for learning to understand how light works and how to more effectively capture it. Learning to set the right exposure with the aid of, but not as a slave to, your metering system.Shooting in raw. If you’re shooting in JPEG only, you’re leaving 4/5th to 14/15th or more of your camera’s capability unused. Well, ok, not perfectly true, but those are the approximate levels of information you lose encoding in JPEG.Finishing your photo. The darkroom, which today — the digital darkroom — can be Photoshop, Lightroom, ON1 Photo Raw, Capture One, Darktable, etc. The basic idea is the same: your image capture is only half of the creative process.Learning composition!!! Study other peoples’ photography. That’s never been easier. Find images that compel you and try to replicate them, or at least learn what they did to achieve those results.Give yourself an assignment. In November of 2017, I started posting one B&W photo each day. I’m still going. Something like that is going to push your abilities.Learn when and why to composite photos. Make a 500 megapixel image. Or shoot 20-bits of dynamic range. Create time, or remove it. Learn what smartphones are doing for novices, things your human brain and photo tools can do just as well, if perhaps a bit slower.Read MoreCanon Releases Recommended Lenses List for EOS 5DS and EOS 5DS RDave’s B&W Photo of the Day Archive (about 200 photos behind current…)Dave Haynie's post in Clickworthy: New Years AssignmentDave Haynie's post in Clickworthy: Image Stacking Magic (Part 1)View MoreI don't always agree with what Tony Northrup says in his videos, though he usually has at least some valid point on technical issues. In this video, though, he does exactly point out that sometimes, buying a full frame lens for an APS-C camera, at least in terms of sharpness, can be a mistake. He's using DxO references, what I dubbed optical resolution and DxO standardizes in their testing as Perceptual Megapixels (P-Mpix).