Horse Lease Form: Fill & Download for Free

Not sure of the exact terms of your question—$220 for 3 days a week for casual riding would indeed be a bargain on the face of it, as other answers have noted—but it does depend on how compatible the whole situation is for all parties, beginning with the suitability of the horse for the lessee or conversely, the suitability of the lessee if you’re the owner of the horse. Only a trial period can answer that question, and as Bobbi Hazelbaker notes, put it in writing.I assume you do not mean three-day eventing. The cross-country phase makes eventing one of the most dangerous sports in riding which is already in the top 3 most dangerous sports. Eventing news: fatalities. I could not possibly recommend leasing an unfamiliar mount for any form of jumping, let alone cross-country eventing. No matter how experienced the rider and no matter how mannerly and experienced the horse, the probability for accidents goes up the less horse and rider are familiar with each other.So whatever the level of experience, allow plenty of time for horse and rider to get used to each other’s signals, quirks, preferences. Ride in company on trails and resist the temptation to rush into anything ambitious such as jumping. Even leasing a horse, spend as much time on the ground around him as possible. Taking care of an animal is where you build dimensions of trust and familiarity that increase both the pleasure and the safety of the relationship for you and the horse.

If you're old enough to be bothered by your friends' snobbery, you're old enough to recognize it for what it is - their insecurity and subsequent need to put others down to feel good about themselves. You're also old enough to understand that some things just aren't going to happen in the immediate future, and that a household budget has to take care of needs before wants.If you want to ride, be grateful that your parents are paying for lessons. Babysit, mow grass,shovel snow, do errands for neighbors, clean stalls, make crafts to sell — find ways to earn money, and save it for the day when you're earning enough to pay board for your own horse. Show your parents that you're responsible and you're committed to having your own horse some day. They don't want to shell out to buy a horse for you and pay a few months' board, then you lose interest.Inquire about a part lease. I've shared my horses in this way. The lessee pays part of the cost of upkeep, and has specific accessto use my horse. Every lease is unique, so sit down with your parents and write up a list of questions, including the hard ones like what if you or the horse gets hurt under your care. Others include whether you may only ride on the stable grounds or if you may ride out on trails, days and times the horse is available to you, your responsibilities (feeding, grooming, daily exercise whether you ride or not), which tack to use, if and when you should call the vet, … Leasing gives you some of the benefits of owning without all the cost and responsibility. Look for a standard equine lease form online, and after you're ready, advertise that you're looking for a lease horse suitable for your skill level. Sit down with the horse owner with that standard form, and hash out the specifics.Most of all, don't let the snobby little mean girls ruin your day. Live with gratitude for the good and happy things in your life, and more good and happy things will come to you.

Before there were used car salesmen, in fact before there were used cars, there were horse traders. Beware.For the amateur who wants a quiet horse, the tranquil animal you take home today may bust out like gangbusters tomorrow morning when the tranquilizer wears off.Or conversely: At a boarding stable one day a man brought in an open jumping horse and a rider to show him off. The horse sailed over 5–6 foot fences as if he had wings. After some haggling, the stable manager bought this superhorse for a bargain price. Next day the prize jumper came up dead lame. Manager had to admire the way he’d been duped. Of course he’d pull the same trick: shoot the horse’s leg full of Bute (phenylbutazone) so the animal would move normally to fool the next mark.So, first lesson: Don’t buy a horse without knowing who’s selling and what you’re buying.In fact don’t buy a horse.Correct me if I’m wrong but sounds as if you’re thinking to learn about horses by buying a horse. That’s putting the add-to-cart before the horse (sorry). Best thing is to learn about horses for at least a couple of years before you even think of owning one. Get as much experience as you can, it will never be enough. Volunteer at a horse rescue, livery or boarding stable. You’ll be put to work mucking stalls and there’s an art and science to that too.Another reason: Horses are not big dogs. They have not been bred as pets because they’ve traditionally had a job to do. Horses are not overly demonstrative and they don’t cuddle the way dogs, cats, even pigs and pythons do. Horses do signal their intentions pretty clearly but only if you’re experienced at reading their language: Understand Horse Body Language and You’ll Unlock the Equine Communication Code.Third reason: By nature horses are large, improbably strong animals that can lame you in a blink by kicking at a fly or stepping on your foot before you’ve learned how to move around them. Let a horse graze while you’re leading her, she may put a front hoof over the lead shank, then panic when she throws her head up and the shank yanks hard on both the halter and her leg, she hauls back fast, breaks loose and you realize horses don’t come back when called. And a loose horse is a nightmare for everyody involved.Learning to ride is NOT like learning to operate a bike, 4-wheeler or jet ski. For openers you’re twice as high off the ground with no brakes and no seatbelt. Machines only move when you tell them to, but a live animal can move unpredictably, especially when you haven’t yet learned to know what he’s going to do before he does. While riding they can send you flying just by shifting their weight out from under you.As for the danger, the real problem isn’t just that horse riding in all its forms is one of the top 3 most dangerous sports. The really sobering news is that injuries from horses tend to be severe and often life-changing: “Every year horse riding causes deaths and very serious injuries such as long term paralysis from spinal cord damage. Even if the danger is difficult to quantify, it is unarguable that horse riding is potentially dangerous. Moreover, anyone can be unlucky.” Note that last phrase: there are just too many ways for things to go wrong. http://www.medequestrian.co.uk/rider-safety/benefits-and-risks-of-riding/risks-of-injury-risk-management/Fourth reason: The sheer expense. Good grain and hay (learn to recognize them), pasture, shelter, grooming, shoeing, and oral care (floating the teeth) are just the basics. A good boarding stable is recommended for a new owner, and that’s not cheap. And vet bills: for openers that means a large-animals specialist making a house call. You’re not going to trailer the animal over to the vet every time he develops a cough from dusty hay, and if it’s colic you’ll be too busy trying to prevent him from lying down to trailor him anywhere. Which reminds me:Fifth reason (or whatever): Horses have delicate digestive systems. They don’t have extra stomachs like ruminants and they can’t regurgitate like we do. That can mean potentially fatal colic if somebody mows the field and leaves certain weeds to ferment when the horse is turned out. It will be up to you to recognize musty hay, or bales with too much clover or alfalfa when your animal isn’t used to it, and hay doesn’t come baled with handy labels from Chewy dot com. You’ll need to know when to give a bran mash, or when to cut back on the oats when he isn’t working. Oats are like Adderall to horses. “Feelin’ his oats” he can act like he’s full of the devil and fight you at every turn, when it just may be that he’s getting overgrained for the amount of exercise he’s getting. Cut back on the grain and you’ve got an entirely different mount. Oh and there’s the right tack: you don’t want to give your horse saddle sores or punish him with the wrong bit.Good source on all the aspects of HORSE CARE: https://www.horsemart.co.uk/health/horse-health-the-ultimate-guide/1816But if you really want to own a horse someday:Once you have some experience working around horses, grooming and feeding them, etc., there are a couple of options to explore.Sponsor or lease a horse at a livery stable. This is something we used to do years ago, it may be unusual nowadays but it won’t hurt to ask. The horse would available to you to groom and ride when she isn’t needed to hire out.Explore horse sharing. This is a lot like time-sharing a condo. You connect with someone who already has a horse and you help with the care and expenses. Since you are still learning, you may find it advisable to volunteer to take care of the horse 2–4 days a week without expecting to ride yet. You may be find an owner who might be willing to teach you to ride, and for that you’ll want to offer recompense, either in money or time/work. Keep the agreement temporary and time-limited until you both find out if it works, and then put it in writing to protect both of you. Any formal agreement should be vetted by an attorney experienced in share agreements of various types.And then one day . . . it may happen unplanned, you’re working/volunteering at a horse rescue or boarding stable, and one day one of the animals may need saving, or maybe just begins to look like the perfect horse. That can be nearly ideal because you know the horse and the folks at the facility can give you good advice. Better take two horses because they’re herd animals, and if your guy doesn’t have a buddy it can make him nervous and fretful. Or a goat may do, but not a burro, they can be noisy and ornery. Choose your horse’s friend wisely.One last possibility: If you have the facilities (meaning barn, paddock, field, outdoor shed for shelter and plenty of fresh water available) you could offer a home to an older horse who is ready to retire. Again, you’ll want expert advice before you commit, but there are plenty of horse owners who don’t want to send a well-loved animal to the knacker’s. In some cases these could be purebred and show animals past their show-ring prime but suitable for experienced amateurs. Ideally you may connect with an owner looking to retire her favorite riding horse, and you could end up with that equine equivalent of a golden retriever that you’re dreaming of.Yes, it could happen. As I say, to be fair to the horse and yourself, you’ll want to learn all you can of what you’re both in for.Thanks for the A2A.P.S. Not recommended:1. Horse auctions, unless you have an expert with you.2. Purebred animals: You could overpay for an animal that may be too high-strung and overall expensive for your needs. There are plenty of good grade horses out there with the temperament you describe.