Construction Re-Roofing Permit Application: Fill & Download for Free

You have to check code for the county you want to live in. Each county has its own building codes. And you have to be a licensed contractor in the state of Florida to build a house. Building Inspections Frequently Asked QuestionsBelow is a list of frequently asked questions and their answers. To navigate back to the top of this page after selecting a link, you may click the "back" button on your browser or click on any "back to top" link.Click here to go back to the main Building Inspections page.When do I need a permit?Where do I get a permit?How much is a permit?Do I need a contractor?What are the construction codes enforced by the City of Tallahassee?What inspections are required?Environmental Inspection Building Inspection Roofing Inspection Electrical Inspection Plumbing InspectionMechanical InspectionGas InspectionCertificate of Occupancy (C.O.)When do I need a permit?Required for any new construction, additions, alterations, or repairs with an estimated cost of labor and material greater than $1000 or is structural. Replacement of a window(s) and/or a door(s) is considered structural and will require a permit. An environmental permit is required when development activity exceeds 1000 square feet of disturbed area. For projects less than 1000 square feet of disturbed area, a permit exemption shall be posted at the job site. You may review a samplecopy of a residential permit application as a PDF, which also includes submittal requirements.Roofing Permit:Required for any repairs or roofing with an estimated cost of labor and material greater than $300. View PDF.Electrical Permit:Required when any new electrical circuits are added, extended or service is changed. View PDF.Plumbing Permit:Required when any new piping, re-piping, fixtures are added, including backflow devices. View PDF.Mechanical Permit:Required when any heating or air conditioning equipment is being extended, relocated or changed out, including ductwork. No permit is required for the installation of window A/C units. View PDF.Gas Permit:Required for any new gas piping, extending existing gas piping, or the installation or replacement of gas appliances. View PDF.PLEASE NOTE: Each construction trade requires its own permit. Additional forms, checklist and affidavits may be found on our Applications and Forms page

That’s exactly what I used to think.Whatever best meltdown proof molten salt reactor, like Moltex, where the molten salt fuel is in tubes, surrounded by a vat of cooling salts is probably the best design for permitters, since there would be no fissionning going on next to the pipes and fission products plating to the cooler heat exchanger. This type of nuclear should be used for industrial heat applications and could be mass produced. However, most all needs will be powered primarily by solar and batteries.Very recently, I came to the conclusion that solar and batteries will actually be cheaper than the cheapest nuclear despite nuclear having a Capacity Factor of over 90% and solar only having a capacity factor of some 25%.Ok, before we figure the price, I want to prove that certain environmentalists want us to have less energy. I’m adding in this drama because we could’ve had a worldwide nuclear fleet for the last 50 years making global warming a far lesser problem than it is today.Thoughts of a socialist style “we don’t want the USA to have anymore energy” set in (and I do worry about that). For starters, there’s Stanford biologist Paul Ehrlich which said concerning (the prospect of) cheap and clean fusion energy.Cheap, inexhaustible power from fusion is "like giving a machine gun to an idiot child,"Now, that’s the epitome of how fear and ignorance goes hand in hand! Next, we have actual environmental groups trying to restrict energy.Greenpeace does NOT want fusion which would be FAR better than fission in every aspect (except maybe, price)."Governments should not waste our money on a dangerous toy," Jan Van de Putte of Greenpeace International said when ITER was announced in 2005. Van de Putte predicted it will never be efficient - so why bother?Spokesperson Bridget Woodman said: "Nuclear fusion has all the problems of nuclear power, including producing nuclear waste and the risks of a nuclear accident."Statements like that prove that Greenpeace is not to be trusted because they also deny the science. Here’s another piece of evidence showing their blatant disregard for humanity’s future prosperity.A secret memo written by the Sierra Club's executive director proposed a strategy of fear-mongering to make nuclear expensive. "Our campaign stressing the hazards of nuclear power will supply a rationale for increasing regulation... and add to the cost of the industry,"Wellock, T. R. 1998. Critical Masses: Opposition to Nuclear Power in California, 1958-1978. Univ of Wisconsin Press.You could argue that an environmental organization might not have to balance the pros and cons of nuclear, that all they really have to do (at the largest scale) is promote solar and wind. However, Greenpeace knew that nuclear was needed (at the time) to overcome global warming.“If the U.S. is to meet its ever-increasing demands for energy, while reducing the threat of climate change and reliance on overseas oil, then the American nuclear industry must be revitalized and permitted to grow.”Different leaders of Greenpeace, I guess…Now, to exasperate things , environmentalists are also against large solar! Believe it or not! Commenting about a compromised solar project, Supervisor Anthony Botelho said“This would have generated much-needed revenue. All you have to do is drive down there and see the conditions of our roads. We have minimal amounts of public safety. This was going to be a big thing, but the rug was pulled out from under us. And it was all done in secret.The environmental groups should have been our allies,” Botelho said. “They are the ones pushing the state to reduce carbon emissions. I just don’t understand it.”And Greenpeace was one of the groups calling it a “win-win” for scaling down that solar project!Environmentalists use wildlife as an excuse to limit our clean energy needsI understand the concerns of local environmentalists because we need to preserve nature the best we can. However, environmental leaders should be helping out with ways to protect wildlife from much needed RE construction. Instead of solutions, (it seems) they’d rather see us continue the use of fossil fuels which ultimately will destroy the entirety of ALL wildlife via global warming and ocean acidification. They even accepted fossil fuel money! Again, I’m not opposing local environmentalists around the world, just their leaders!Solutions include driving framing posts into non bulldozed land and using electronic fences so that wildlife is not paved over and blocked. This is a real environmental threat, considering that literally hundreds of thousands of square miles of Earth will be used for solar, globally. All environmentalists should actively engage in modelling the best way to large solar with the least amount of land (and thus wildlife) disturbed. That should be a prerequisite for any environmental credential, being that solar will become the dominant source. And being that we can not afford any limitation to solar growth in the meantime!1 cubic mile of oil - humanity burns about 3 of these in all fossil fuels every yearOk, why is solar better than even the best nuclear? We have to very roughly figure what it will cost using future prices for both the nuclear and the solar setup. The world requires (a convenient) 18 TW, constant power. That’s 18 thousand Gigawatts.18TW / 0.9 (CF of nuclear) = 20 TW of awesome meltdown proof nuclear needed, at say, $5/watt. This price is almost half of conventional nuclear and would also account for the steam turbine, (much less) safety issues and enviro’s trying to raise the costs of nuclear for no good reason.$100 trillion dollars for fifty years of nuclear (assuming nuclear lasts fifty years).With mostly solar, we’d need 72 TW (remember the CF of 25%) before considering that solar does not lose 2/3rds of its energy to the confines of thermodynamics (no steam generator needed). Thus, at $1/watt, we need about 26 TW of solar. Let’s call it 30 TW to make up for inefficiency of battery storage and inverters. This is for all the power the world needs for everything assuming battery powered cars, trucks and heavy equipment, all commercial, residential and even all industrial.However, about 3/4ths of this awesome energy has to be stored! Solar “works” for about 6 hours a day. Out of that, we need to store about 4.5 hours of that. And we have to store that amount for about a day, assuming large regional distances connected by powerlines to smooth over regional storm systems. If continents were connected by lots of HVDC lines, we’d need even less storage, but that’s for another day (since no one wants to do that either).So, we need to store 4.5 x 30 x .75 TW hours in a global battery system made up of billions of smaller parts. That’s a requirement of about 100 TWh (terawatt hours) of battery storage. Batteries are supposed to come down to $60/kWh in a few years which is consistent with how prices have come down in the past. We’ll say $100/kWh to make up for utility scale installations and other connection costs.$100/kWh is the same as 0.10/Watt hour (reduce by 1,000). 100 TWh x 10 cents is $10 trillion dollars. For about 15 years… We want 50 years, to be compared properly with 50 year nuclear, thus $33 trillion for 50 years worth of batteries (assuming the costs can’t go down past 10 cents/Wh installed, further in the future). Also, 30 years of solar at $30 trillion is about $50 trillion for 50 years.$88 trillion for 50 years of 24/7 solarAnd, that is why I prefer to promote the exponentially growing solar/battery revolution! Another reason is because solar is easier to permit and install, can be put on roofs and eventually, even in space! About 1/4th of the space required for solar is “solar quality” roof space (in the USA).A total of about 230,000 sq miles will be needed, globally, assuming 25 sq km per GW installed. A solar farm in India requires 24 km^2/GW. I believe more research is needed to enable millions of square miles of solar over the oceans…Consider the costs of decommissioning nuclear… and consider the costs of recycling the solar. They couldn’t be nearly as much of a problem as what we’re headed for now, with continued buurning of fossil fuels.There is no possible way people could honestly say that the raw materials for solar and batteries are limited. We live on the largest “rock” in the solar system, literally! Elon Musk style boring company coupled with a mining company could extract all the resources we ever need without any enviro destruction (underground 3d tunnel network to boot)! For example, there’s enough lithium in the oceans to make about 18 trillion Tesla Model X type battery packs.Credit for flowers: pluspng.com and my adding color to it.

Patio Cover PlansThese patio cover plans describe how I built my own patio cover. There are many ways to build a patio cover; every situation is different. These plans are intended to provide you with some useful insight, while you are designing and building a patio cover for your own home.Patio Cover Plans - Getting StartedBefore I began designing the structure of my new patio cover, I expanded the existing 10' x 10' patio slab by pouring another 10' x 10' slab next to it, making it roughly 10' x 20'.Since I was planning to attach my patio cover to the existing roof overhang of my home, I ensured that it was capable of carrying half of the weight of the new patio cover roof. If you are planning to do something similar, and you are unsure of the existing framing, you can remove a section of fascia or soffit to examine the underlying structure. With the rafter tail framing exposed, you might even contact a local carpenter or structural engineer for their advice. The other half of the weight of the patio cover roof is carried by an outer 4x6 beam, supported by three 6x6 posts. (see the Side View diagram)Special note: These plans are not intended to replace engineered working drawings. Local building codes can vary significantly among the regions. Your local building code should determine the actual sizes of concrete footings, slabs, wood structural members, and fasteners to be used. A structural engineer should determine if your existing structure is capable of supporting the additional load factors of a patio cover. Before beginning construction, contact your building permitting authorities to obtain a building permit and to have your design reviewed so that it complies with local building codes and guidelines.Patio Cover Plans - Design FactorsWhen designing the structure of a patio cover, there are a few factors to be considered:Roof Design Load - This is combination of the dead load (the weight of the framing material) and the live load (additional weight, like snow, etc. for your area) You can get this information from the International Building Code and from your local building code authorities.Roof Slope - The roof needs to have sufficient pitch required for the type of roofing that will be used. This information can be obtained from the roofing manufacturer.Rafter Size, Length and Spacing - Once you know the Roof Load and Pitch, you can determine the Sizes, Lengths, and Spacing of rafters, based on the Species and Grade of the lumber being used. You can use the Span Calculator, on the American Wood Council website, to make these calculations. Try selecting the different options for Species and Spacing, etc., and compare the results.Beams and Posts - Once have the Design load, you can multiply the lbs/ft² by the length and width of the roof to determine the total weight of the roof (live and dead load).Footings - Soil conditions vary in different locations. Areas in the far northern (and far southern) hemispheres require deeper footings due to frost line factors. These can be determined based on the International Building Code and local building codes.Patio Cover Plans - Structural DesignI didn't have to worry about snow when drawing my patio cover plans, but my two-layer plywood decking added some "dead load" to my design. I had to add that to my overall load. If continuous snow load had been a factor, I would have had to use 2x6 or larger rafters.After calculating my rafter span, I would have exceeded the capacity of my 2x4 rafters if I had spaced them 24" O.C.., but spacing them 16" O.C.., I was within the range of my design load.Patio Cover Plans - Front ViewThere were a few features that I wanted to include in my patio cover design. Writing these down before I started sketching the design, and drawing my patio cover plans, helped ensure that I would accomplish all of my goals.Western Red Cedar - this material is widely available in my area, and has superior resistance to decay.Fiberglass shingles to match the existing residence.Outside beam height to have a minimum of 6' 8" clearance (my personal preference).Roofing nails should not show through the bottom of the roof decking (also a personal preference).6x6 posts (notched at the top for the 4x6 beam).4x6 beam.2x4 rafters - based on my given span, spacing, and design load requirements.A clearance of 6' 8", between the finished slab and the bottom of the 4x6 beam, made the pitch of my roof a little less than 2/12 (2 inches of rise for every 12 inches of run). This was slightly below the manufacturer's minimum recommendations. I had no issues with my roof, however, I recommend meeting or exceeding the manufacturers specifications.To prevent the roofing nails from showing through the underside of the decking, I used two layers of 4' x 8' plywood when decking the roof. For the bottom layer of roof decking, I chose 5/8" thick T1 11 4" O.C. (for a plank-like visual appearance from the underside), and for the top layer, I used 3/8" construction grade (CDX) plywood. This made the roof decking thickness 1".Patio Cover Plans - Underside of RoofPatio Cover Plans - BuildingWhen you are building a patio cover off of an existing roof or wall, you must take all of your measurements from the point at which the patio roof will attach to the existing structure, not the outside of the slab. The existing slab can vary considerably, throwing off crucial measurements.Since my patio roof was going to be attached to the existing rafter tails, I plumbed straight down from the outside surface of the fascia and made a mark on the patio slab. I did this on both ends of where the roof ledger was going to attach.Afterwards, I popped a chalk-line across the patio slab between the two marks. I used this line to establish the placement of the bottom of the 6x6 posts - they all needed to be the same distance from this line.Patio Cover Plans - Side ViewI planned to place the 6x6 posts about 4" from the outside edges of the concrete (to prevent cracking), while keeping them the same distance from the chalk line.I used galvanized post anchors to secure the posts to the slab. Before securing the posts to the anchors, I cut just enough off of the bottoms of each post to make them square and let the other ends run long (to be cut to size in a later step). I used temporary 2x4 braces to hold the posts plumb, while I determined the finished post heights.With the posts plumbed, braced and secured to the galvanized anchors, I measured up 6' 8" from the top of the slab and made a mark on the front of the center 6x6 post.I used a level to transfer that mark from the center post to the two outer posts. This mark would be the height of the bottom of the 4x6 beam when installed.Next, to determine the finished height of the posts, I measured up about 6" (use the actual height of the 4x6 beam) from the 6' 8" mark and cut the excess material off of each post.I notched the 6x6 posts on the outside face so that the 4x6 beam would sit on the posts furthest from the existing structure (see diagrams). I cut the 4x6 beams so that they extend past the two outer posts 16" on each side. Once they were cut, I temporarily secured the beams to the 6x6 posts with deck screws, being careful not to place them in the same location as carriage bolts. Once the beams were temporarily secured in place, I drilled two 3/8" holes on each end of the two 4x6 beams for the 8" x 3/8" carriage bolts and installed each one (see drawings).If you have done everything perfect, the measurement from the outer beam back to the existing structure should be the same at each end of the beam. If not, check the posts to make sure they are still plumb.With the beam in place, I determined the location of the 2x4 ledger (that would be attached to the house), using the Pythagorean Theorem. I secured the 2x4 ledger with 3.5-inch deck screws into the house's fascia, and used 8" x 3/8" lag screws to further secure the 2x4 ledger beyond the fascia and sub fascia, into each of the existing rafter tails.Once everything was secured and verified, I began the 16" O.C. layout for the 2x4 rafters. I cut one end of each 10' rafter with a 2/12 pitch cut (9.46 degrees) and attached it to the 2x4 ledger with 2" galvanized wood screws.Once the rafters were in place and secured to the 2x4 ledger and the 4x6 beam, I measured from the house along the top of one of the end rafters and made a mark at 9' 9". I did the same on the other end rafter and popped a chalk-line across the top of all of the patio cover rafter tails.Using my Speed Square, I marked a 90° line, from the chalk line mark on each rafter, and cut end off of each one with a circular saw. Once the rafter tails were all the same length, I cut the 2x4 sub fascia and fastened it to the rafter tails with two 3 1/2" galvanized deck screws per rafter.Next, I installed the T1 11 plywood decking; From the sub fascia at the end of one of the end-rafters, I measured up along the rafter 48" and made a mark on the topside of the rafter. I did the same on the other end-rafter.Using my Chalk Line tool, I pulled the line very tight and popped a chalk line across the tops of all of the rafters. This established a line for me to use as a guide for the placement of the 48" x 96" T1 11 plywood decking. I attached the T1 11 decking to the rafters using 1 1/2 galvanized wood screws.It is good practice not to completely nail off each sheet of plywood until all of the sheets are attached to the rafters. Nail them at the corners and at places where there is a bow (if necessary) to keep the sheets flat until they can be completed nailed/screwed in place.There was no requirement in the building code for two layers of roof decking. This was my idea to prevent the roofing nails from poking through the underside. This was strictly done for cosmetic reasons.To install the second layer of decking, the 3/8" CDX plywood, I measured up from the ends of the roof 24" on each side and popped a line across (to stagger the plywood joints). I ripped two pieces of the 3/8" plywood into two equal pieces measuring 24" x 96", and secured the first course of the second layer of plywood, keeping the factory edge along the 24" chalk line.Next, I installed 1x6 cedar fascia and 1x2 drip edge on both sides and front of the roof. The fascia and drip edge were secured with 2" galvanized wood screws.The final step of the roof frame was to install the four diagonal braces located at each end of the 4x6 beam and the two 6x6 posts (see the Diagonal Brace Detail). Since each end of the 4x6 beam overhangs 16 inches, you can determine the length of the diagonal braces using the Pythagorean Theorem. The result is four 4x6's @ 22 5/8" long from long point to long point with a 45° bevel on each end. Secure them with 3 1/2" galvanized deck screws.Patio Cover Plans - Diagonal Brace Detail DetailFinally, I installed 15# felt on top of the two layers of plywood and installed the fiberglass roofing to the specifications of the manufacturer.After completing the construction of these patio cover plans, I sealed all of the wood surfaces with a cedar colored wood sealer. Each sealant application turned the wood slightly darker, but after about three coats (stretched out over about 5 years), I have not needed to re-seal the wood.