Car Purchase Agreement: Fill & Download for Free

“I’m paying cash!”It used to be that whether you were buying used or new at a dealership, cash buyers were welcomed with open arms. Instant money, inventory is moved, and more cash flow. They could still try to add all the bells, whistles and gimmicks.Now most of the money made at a dealership from sales of new cars is done in the financing department. That’s why they’ll roll any money you owe on your current car into the new one they offer to sell. They’ll try sleight of hand with the numbers to show how you’ll come out ahead. Even though the 24 months you have to pay off your current car becomes a new loan at the same monthly payment, but now has 72 or 84 month payoff. They don’t even finance the loan. They just have to get approval from a lender, have you sign the purchase agreement and BANG! Instant cash from selling the car AND the loan.For a period of time, paying for cars with cash was a way for criminals to launder money. Even if you have the cash saved for the new car you want, don’t tell the dealership. Just know the price you’re willing to pay and stick to it. When they agree to your price, ask about how much down and how much a month, tell them 20–25% and 60 months (or whatever). Make the down payment. Take your car home. When the first installment notice comes, pay the rest off.Do’s and Dont’s of Car Buying Commonly Mentioned:Do take someone with you to car shop. Even if your companion doesn’t know anything about cars, having another person with you will mean the sales people and the finance department are less likely to use hostile tactics. Stay together.Do test drive any car you are going to puchase before you buy, new or used.From a stop (when nothing’s ahead) accelerate faster than you normally would to find out if there’s any hesitation or jerking from the transmission or steering.Press on the brakes hard (don’t slam them). See if the car pulls during hard braking and see if the anti-lock brake system kicks in.Check that all the electronics work: Radio, lights, blinkers, AC and Heat (weather outside doesn’t matter), windows, wipers, dashboard warning lights, etc.Do make sure when buying a new car, that you are purchasing the car you test drove. If you like the brand new car you tested be sure it is the one documented on the purchase agreement. (Write down the VIN of the car you drove and check it against the purchase agreement).Do make sure that new car is really new. Less than 50 miles on it is fine. If it has more than 100 miles, the dealership has probably used it for promotions or as a ‘loaner’ to family or to take home. Over 500 miles-that’s not new, that’s a four hour weekend getaway round trip.Do take a used car to an independent mechanic (the one you know and trust) for inspection, it may cost a little bit now, but if you avoid purchasing a car that won’t last 6 months it’s worth it. (A little extra now for a trusted professional’s opinion can save 10–20x in repair expenses later).Do ask about anything you don’t understand in the purchase agreement.Abbreviations like ‘CDL’ (credit disability life) are gimmicks. If you can buy the car, you have a job and life/health coverage. If retired, you’ve probably got a nest egg anyway and health coverage. This is just a way to add to the dealership’s bottom line.Do decline special ‘security’ features. Glass etching doesn’t make your car less like to be stolen-GIMMICK.Do have them take off extras, like ‘pin-striping’. The pinstriping can be applied in 10 minutes and a roll of it to do 10 cars costs about $15. It’s not worth the $100+ they claim.Do review the purchase agreement for other unnecessary charges. Doc(ument) Fees-done on a computer in less than 10 minutes. Dealer prep fees(“Why are you selling cars that aren’t ready to be driven from the lot?”). And the sickening “Additional dealer markup” Yes, that’s an actual item on some dealerships’ purchase agreements.Don’t discuss money until you’re ready to buyIt’s none of their business where you work or how much you make.If they ask how much you want to pay a month, shut them down! Every time someone at the dealership brings up monthly payment amounts, make your reply: “I just want to know the total price of the car.” Make this your mantra.Don’t sign anything without reading it first.Don’t sign a document with blank spaces, boxes, or other information that has not been filled in.Don’t sign the final purchase agreement until you and your companion have read it and both agree that it’s right for you. Your companion is there to deflect sales pressure away from you. If they pressure you, your companion shuts them down. (Good Cop-you with the money, and the Cock-Blocker-your friend, keeps jerks at bars and car salespeople in check.)If they mention anything about ‘hurrying up’ (“We’re closing soon”, “We just want to help you as quickly as possible”, “We’re very busy”) and try to use a time factor to rush your decision, walk away. Warning them once not to do that is fine, but anymore than that and walk away.Don’t accept ANYTHING a salesperson tells you about the car as true. If they keep repeating it, tell them “let’s put that in the purchase agreement”. If they refuse-they’ve lied about it. (It’s gently called ‘sales puffery’). A purchase agreement is a contract. Anything not written in that contract is meaningless and unenforceable in a court.The above information is summarized from several sources. Many former salespersons, managers, and mechanics are sickened by the deceit in the industry. They have turned to making blogs, YouTube videos, and online articles to get the word out to the buying public to even the playing field. Please double check this information for yourself. There’s probably tons I’ve left out. I’m just outside looking in, like you.

It was the sales manager. He said “I want you to leave now. You're just shopping. We don't want shoppers here, we want buyers.”I followed his instructions and left. I didn't say a word.This was after I had told the salesperson that I wanted to know the price of a vehicle that I wanted to purchase before signing a purchase agreement.The vehicle I wanted to purchase was a used sedan, one of a number coming off two-year corporate leases. I had test driven two and found the one I wanted. I needed a second car for my girlfriend.I was a cash purchaser who wanted to buy a car. I just wanted to know the price. And I got kicked out of the dealership.The funny thing is that I was already a customer of this dealership, which the sales manager obviously didn't know. I was a business owner with four vans purchased from this same dealership. But I didn't tell the sales manager this.I decided I didn't want to do business with a dealership who treated customers this way.I had warranty service and such performed at another Ford dealership 15 miles away. A minor inconvenience.Never did business with them again and warned others to stay away from them.Why do people hate car dealers?Rhetorical question.

It depends--if it's a service contract for something like a cellular phone or a piece of software where my bargaining power is limited to accepting or declining a boilerplate agreement, I'm definitely going to pay attention to the core terms, but I am not going to waste half a day going through the fine print.However, on negotiated transactions that involve a significant amount of money and/or time (e.g., real estate, construction, loans, insurance, car purchase/lease, etc.) you'd better believe that I've read the contracts word for word, asked questions, and resolved matters to my satisfaction. And of course, if you're paying me, I'm always going to scrutinize the fine print.