Easy Pedigree Maker: Fill & Download for Free

Any genealogy software app can generate a standard pedigree chart (Pedigree chart - Wikipedia). Some offer other charts you can print. Enter the family info into the app then select the person to start the chart and generate the report.A few apps include (in alphabetical order, I hope):Brother’s KeeperFamily Tree MakerGenoProGrampsLegacy Family TreeLifeLinesMac FamilyReunionRoots MagicThe Master Genealogist

I use Family Tree Maker. I find it easy to use, I can add lots of notes, and I like the variety of reports and charts it can produce. For example, I can easily generate a 17 x 22 pedigree chart, with pictures, and send it to my printer. Also, Family Tree Maker can be set up to synchronize with an Ancestry tree (if you change one, you can automatically update the other), and it has a research interface with both Ancestry and Family Tree Maker.I prefer a desktop version of a genealogy tool over an online program. Online programs, such as Ancestry are so limiting in ease of use and features.

Carbon & Vanadium are the typically hardest carbide formers in steel. What you must remember is that steel isn’t steel isn’t steel. Each type of steel has its own pedigree and mix of material/elements.Second point, although Japan never has had particularly carbon rich material to work with, what made a Samurai sword so amazingly battle worthy were 1)the folding of the steel over and over and over again by hand, 2) the proper heat treat & 3) the convexing of the edge by hand.In a caste society, the Samurai were very highly regarded. Just below them and equally as important were the sword makers and their sword sharpeners or apprentices.When picking out a steel for a Samurai sword, you’d want to have toughness. In steel, this characteristic is definitive of the ability of the steel to bend or flex without breaking. Duh, right? After all, you’ll be using it for battle, won’t you? On the other hand, you also want edge retention which means you sacrifice a little toughness. Then, there’s that whole pesky problem with blood oxidizing metal. So stainless? What’s an aspiring samurai warrior to do?If you don’t plan on folding the steel over and over and over like the traditional blacksmiths of the day whereas they’d stick a (just about) solid block of softer iron into the middle and sandwich it in betwixt the outer layers (San Mai) and then proceed to fold it in a bit more for the last few times, then you’ll have to pick just 1 steel.If you’re doing that, I’d probably go with a 1050, 1065, 1080, 1095, A2, M2, or D2 tool steel. D2 may be your best bet if you’d like to have it remain semi-stainless. I’d definitely avoid “super steels” such as S30V, ZDP-189, S90V, BG42, etc because I don’t believe that you’d be able to temper them properly to hold up to the abuse a sword is supposed to take.D2 is fairly easy to sharpen, has great carbides, and has a lot of toughness while retaining edge strength. Plus, when convexed, you’ll feel a bit worried just how much you can do with a blade made of the material when it’s properly treated and properly sharpened. THIS MEANS DON”T USE A BELT SANDER OR ANY MACHINERY as it may change the temper of the edge.Crucible has a CPM D2 that would also be promising as it’s got a finer grain structure than typical D2 and has the toughness (from what I have been told) of A2. Anyway, just my 2 cents from a knife nut.