Wood Frame Press Box Specifications: Fill & Download for Free

Yes but…It’s not a great idea because it points at an unstructured process by the user. A better process is as follows.Append after each item: Take it slow. Go light. Stop as soon as it begins to get uncomfortable and certainly before it hurts.There is no pain in this process at any point.After about a year you can ramp up a bit and work it harder. If your knuckles hurt you’re doing it wrong: almost certainly too much, too hard, for the state of your hands.So we start as follows, and progress down the list when able to move on.Press-ups on the knuckles. Initially on carpet, then wood, then on rough concrete. Always and only on the first 2 knuckles.If this hurts for you at first, even on carpet, then put one or both knees on the floor, to make it easier.If your wrist is unstable at first: this is normal. Please consider doing some weight training exercises that specifically target the wrist, such as standing endbell levers front and back; seated endbell twists; wrist curls and wrist extensions.If your arms hurt or feel weak at first, do more sets of press-ups on the hands (not fists), and do weight training exercises for the arms such as curls and tricep extensions - there are dozens of variations on each of those.Floor Walk on the knuckles. Get into a press-up position, then walk across the floor on the knuckles and balls of the feet (the knee comes up to the side as you ‘crawl’ along). Progression as above.Bagwork without gloves. Use a hard bag of light or medium weight. Soft bags are no good because they do nothing for the fist, and spread the hand bones.Heavy bag with no gloves. Needs to be a hard bag.Pad punching: get some kind of soft/medium-firm pad to hit, mounted on a wall or whatever. In Okinawa this is called a makiwara. A wall-mount bean bag is good. These punch pads wear out and split soon with hard punches but it’s only a preliminary stage. When you have split the pad and thrown it away, you can move on.The heavy rope-wound post. This is a 4x2 timber wound with sisal rope. You start out on it light. After a while you can hit it hard. Then later you can hit it very hard.Some weight training for the hands, wrists and forearms needs to be carried out regularly. Carry a 24″ wrecking bar in the hand for as long as you can every day (a 36″ bar for big men); use a wrist roller with a chest height anti-cheat bar (or don’t bother); endbell levers front and back; etc.After this process - which takes a couple of years or so - the ordinary person can punch the 6x6 timber gluelam pillars used for framing a house at about 90% power - in other words pretty hard. Without any hand pain or injury.There is never any knuckle swelling or damage in this slow process. The cartilage of the first and second knuckles is rounded off; callus forms over the knuckles; the bones of the hand and wrist are strengthened; the radial column is reinforced*; the contact face of the radius forearm bone is hardened.* This method establishes a power driveline through the wrist, called the radial column. It is the strongest possible fist alignment and provides for the hardest punches to the head. The line passes between the first 2 knuckles (index and centre finger) when aligned straight, down through the metacarpals and carpals, to the contact face of the radius bone (the strong bone in the forearm, on the thumb side).The ulna is ignored in this alignment: it supports the forearm, but does not play a large part in the structure comprising the driveline - it can’t. The carpals do not transfer much of the force to the ulna side, the ‘driveline’ bypasses the ulna, and only a minor percentage of the impact force is passed through the ulna. Like the fibula in the lower leg, it is not the major stress handler. It is a stabiliser not a main stress handler.To repeat this, again, so it is perfectly clear: the first 2 knuckles are used to punch with: the knuckles of the index and centre finger. The end knuckles of the fist, on the ring and little finger, are not used because: (1) the knuckle joints are too small and weak; (2) the metacarpal bones are too thin, and snap when you hit the head (this is the common ‘fistfight fracture’ every trauma medic has seen many times); (3) the drive line through the ulna is simply way too weak for head punches - a broken wrist is likely (carpals / ulna head) if the small metacarpals this end of the fist (ring finger, little finger) don’t break first.This view is of the back of the right hand, with the thumb at top left. Radius bone is at 1, ulna is at 2. You can see the radius is more robust than the ulna, the head of the bones makes this obvious..The 4th and 5th metacarpals will break (the ‘fistfight fracture’) if you punch like this to the head.It doesn’t make much difference if the fist is vertical - if these end knuckles hit first with incorrect fist crank (weak end of the fist cranked forward) the bones will snap. The fist has a strong end and a weak end. The weak end can be used to the body; but certainly not hard, to the head, as above (horizontal or vertical fist doesn’t make much difference if the weak end knuckles take the full impact).SandbagWe used this for hardening the shins, for Thai boxing kicks and kick defence.First comes a great deal of work on the 6 foot medium bag. Then the 6 foot heavy bag; many thousands of kicks, in total. Then the truck tyre. Finally the sandbag.I feel the sandbag is more appropriate for toughening shins not fists. But you can do as you wish.InjuryIt’s easy to go badly wrong with these processes. I would caution you to take it slow, and use some kind of logical progression.I don’t find it useful to punch trees or walls at any time in this processThere is a clip on YouTube of some guy telling you how to do fist hardening - he has hugely swollen knuckles (the first 2) and cannot do fist press-ups on them as they are clearly too painful. His demo of ‘fist push-ups’ is amusing as he has to use the end 3 knuckles, due no doubt to intense pain from the first 2 knuckles he’s been working on.Make your own judgement about that.Old ageI’m getting close to 70 now. My hands are fine and I can punch a heavy chunk of lumber much harder than the average guy my age/weight. All the callus has melted off my knuckles now due to lack of padwork, but the basic fist/hand is still very robust.I’ve had problems with almost every joint in my body except my knuckles. One leg is near-frozen up some days, for example. However I would still be able to play a violin should that be my intention - the fingers and knuckles are free of any problem. No rheumatism, arthritis, or whatever there.So from my perspective the slow and careful process I outline above is successful: it works and it has no age-related after-effects.A case study of one is not much use, but it’s all I have - take it or leave it :)Much more detail here:Quora answers with practical fighting material…scroll down to: Training the fist.

Ultimately, the only important factor is the ability to get a good night’s rest. If your bed keeps you irritated or gives you cramps or even injuries, it’s a bad bed for you. And everyone has different needs. Therefore, there are multiple options for beds.I was homeless for years, and I slept on great many variety of beds.I’ve slept on:western bedsreal japanese futons on tatami matsfake american futons on pull-out couchesmatresses stacked on top of one anothercouches not made for sleepingcar seats, recliners, and rocking chairshammoks and swing benchesa huge nest of pillows and blanketsan american futon on top of a mattress on top of broken wooden palletsair mattresses that always deflate fully by morninggym mats on concretenothing but carpet on a wood floora pile of blankets on top of a sleeping bag full of pool noodlesmy feet, standing up and walkinga very wobbly princess-and-the-pea type situation with three or so mattresses stacked on top of a pull-out couch bedetc.My optimal bed is a very tall, soft mattress on a box spring or two, with a tough foam pillow and heavy but not-too-hot blankets, which is what I have now.I went to sleep many nights sore and cold, dreaming of this bed. Now that I have it, I’m good.The third-best bed I ever had was a twin mattress on top of milk crates, with a thin wooden sheet between them, and a foam camper pad on top of the mattress. It was weirdly good. It had the perfect amount of elasticity and support.The second-best bed I ever had was a giant 5-star hotel bed that felt like sinking into a cloud.Then again, I have had pretty good naps on rocks and concrete. Hard surfaces work fine, as long as your body is supported so that there’s no pressure on your bones and such.The problem with matress-on-a-wood-floor (or concrete or carpet-on-wood) is that you will hit the floor when you lay down. You will feel the floor under you and it will press into you in places as if the matress wasn’t there. You will be sore and aching in the morning. Been there, done that. That is why the box spring is there, to add a layer to the gradient of soft-hard, so it’s soft-flexible-hard. It stops you from bottoming out.Don’t be fooled by futons, they’re really the same thing as traditional western mattresses. It’s the same system, but because it’s on tatami mats specifically, they don’t need a box spring. Tatami is flexible enough as it is. It’s much more comfortable than futon-on-wood. Which is why american futons come with a couch frame as a box spring.This is one of those “you do you” things. You are allowed to sleep on the floor, but other people have plenty reason not to, and it doesnt’t matter if the reason is comfort, dignity, extravagant taste, or a medical problem. It’s not worth judging people over.Thanks for coming to my BEDtalk.

I believe I answered this question at length yesterday.Yes, a .38 Special revolver would be a good first centerfire handgun. Although I mentioned the Ruger GP100, I actually believe the Smith & Wesson Model 67 is a better choice. The S&W has a better, smoother double-action out-of-the-box trigger pull.If adjustable sights aren’t a big issue for you, the Model 64 is a bit less expensive.In addition to all the virtues I cited in my original comments, such as ease of use, ease of handling and rock-solid safety, the two S&W revolvers are made of stainless steel. This means fewer worries about rust, something that is a concern with some blued finishes, especially on guns that are carried frequently.One thing that is handy about these revolvers is the ability to use Speer plastic training bullets and cases. Using a large pistol primer, the Speer cartridges can be safely used indoors with a target made of a cardboard box or other container filled with carpet scraps or other capture medium. There is no powder used and the noise level is somewhere between a cap pistol and a Black Cat firecracker. There are also commercial bullet traps that will work.The plastic cartridges can be assembled by hand, without tools. Place the primer face up on a solid surface, press the case down until the primer is seated and then insert the black plastic bullet.Speer does make the bullets and cases in .45 ACP but the primer doesn’t supply enough oomph to cycle the action, so each case must be manually ejected and each complete round must be loaded directly into the breech.With the revolver, you load the cylinder and you have six shots as fast as you can pull the trigger. Perfect for some easy and inexpensive target practice when you’re not up for a visit to the range.Safety note: Even though it’s only a primer, it can still propel that plastic bullet to a velocity of up to 400 feet per second. Always wear eye protection and at least a pair of earplugs.The grips on the current generation of S&W’s K-frame stainless revolvers are much better than the smaller wood grips the came on the Model 15 Combat Masterpiece and Model 10 Military & Police, which were the original versions of the Model 67 and Model 64, respectively. They are more comfortable and more hand-filling, which does good things for grip, accuracy and fatigue avoidance.The Ruger GP-100 is also a good choice and some upgraded springs will do wonders for the trigger pull. The main drawback to the Ruger is that its MSRP is about $80 higher than the S&W for the Model 1705, which is the stainless version.As others have mentioned, there are several very good alternatives including the larger-framed L- and N-series revolvers chambered in .357 Magnum. But there is also the problem of residue buildup in the chambers from using the shorter .38 Special round. This residue can cause problems when using the regular magnum rounds.Since the question was specifically about suitability as a first gun, it’s likely that .38 Special will be the almost exclusive diet of the revolver. In fact, even among those that have the .357 Magnum, .38 Special makes up a large part of the ammunition used.To be honest, when it comes to .357 Magnum loads, the L-frame is good but the N-frame is great. Back in my handloading days, I found that the Model 27 could handle about anything I fed it. In fact, that was one of the reasons I traded my Model 19 for the Model 27 as my duty sidearm.Once you have some practice rounds under your belt, either the Model 67 or the Model 64 will make a decent home-defense gun. Though even +P ammo doesn’t offer the same punch as other calibers, .38 Special did the trick for millions of cops for decades.Most important, these revolvers will give you solid experience in shooting a centerfire revolver and the proper care, storage and feeding of a handgun. At that point, your knowledge and skills can be applied to most any handgun with a much shorter learning curve. Plus, if you want, you can trade it in on your next handgun.It just doesn’t get much better than that.