New York City Housing Authority - Nyc.Gov: Fill & Download for Free

Thanks for the A2A.Despite the“time honored tradition” to go through and find/reclaim items in somebody else's trash in NYC,anddespite the Supreme Court ruling - which actually says (not an exact quote) "trash is public domain, as long as you don't have to trespass EXCEPT where against local laws and ordinances"there are many laws AGAINST going through and/or reclaiming garbage in NYC, although most of the time there is no enforcement. Mostly it depends on what you are taking, and/or how you are taking it, and who is watching you. When you do go through the garbage in NYC, you need to go with the understanding that although it is not “owned” by the disposer anymore, it does have a new owner at the curb – the city itself, and many millions are earned annually by the city recycling.For example, there are laws on the books against using a vehicle to go from building/house to the next, which was meant to deter organized groups from reclaiming and profiting from upcycling. This article is a bit dated, but it gives an idea, and brings up the topic of using a vehicle and the fines involved for doing so –https://consumerist.com/2010/07/14/be-careful-picking-up-furniture-from-the-curb-could-cost-you-thousands/On the topic of recyclableshttps://www.nytimes.com/2016/03/21/nyregion/new-york-city-fights-scavengers-over-a-treasure-trash.htmland (which also gets into the area of using a vehicle)http://nypost.com/2012/05/29/thieves-inflicting-paper-cut-on-city/Beyond those news articles, I’d tell you to familiarize yourself with:Unauthorized Removal of GarbageNo one, other than an authorized employee or agent of DSNY, shall disturb or remove ashes, garbage, refuse (including recycling), or rubbish placed within the stoop line or in front of houses by householders, tenants, or occupants for removal by DSNY.Fine: $100–$300Theft of Residential Recyclable MaterialExcept for an authorized employee or agent of DSNY, it shall be unlawful for any person to disturb, remove, or transport by motor vehicle any amount of recyclable material placed out at curbside, within the stoop line, or in front of the premises for collection or removal by DSNY.Penalties for this offense include a fine and vehicle impoundment. Both the owner and driver of the vehicle are liable for theft of recyclable material.Fine: $500–$1000 (Operator); $500–$1000 (Owner) plus Vehicle ImpoundmentRemoval of DSNY-marked or Refrigerant-Containing Item—Fine: $750–$1500 (Operator); $500–$1000 (Owner) plus Vehicle ImpoundmentTheft of Commercial Recyclable MaterialExcept for an authorized employee of an entity licensed by or registered with the Business Integrity Commission, it shall be unlawful for any person to disturb, remove, or transport by motor vehicle any amount of recyclable material placed out for collection by owners of commercial properties or businesses. Both the owner and driver of the vehicle are liable for theft of commercial recyclable material.Fine: $1,000–$2,000Acceptance of Recyclable Containers in Bulk Using Motor VehiclesIt is unlawful for any person using a motor vehicle to accept, receive, or otherwise collect recyclable containers in bulk from more than one person on or in any street in New York City. Additionally, it is against the law for any person, using a motor vehicle to accept, receive, or transfer from one motor vehicle to another motor vehicle, or otherwise collect recyclable containers in bulk from more than two persons at a fixed location on private property in New York City without registering with DSNY. For more information regarding registration, please contact DSNY.Fine: $1,000 (Owner and Operator) plus Vehicle ImpoundmentFine: $500 (Owner and Operator) plus Vehicle ImpoundmentAll from (the NYC Department of Sanitation) - http://www1.nyc.gov/assets/dsny/about/laws/illegal-dumping-and-theft-of-recycling-laws.shtml

Original Question: I want to do some electrical work to my home in the US. What do I need to know?General InformationWithout knowing specifically what you want to do and what your experience level is I suggest you hire the services of a licensed journeyman or master electrician in your area to do the work for you. They will make sure the job is done properly, safely and to code.However I realize for a variety of reasons many people prefer to do this work themselves. The following information is provided for those people. My hope is that the information provided here gives people the knowledge to:Make safe installations that meet the applicable electrical codesStay safe themselvesOtherwise stay out of troubleAll while minimizing reworkNational Electrical Code – NECFor almost all locations in the US the National Electrical Code (NEC) is the applicable electrical installation code. The NEC is issued every three years, the 2017 edition being the most recent.Some jurisdictions operate on an earlier edition of the NEC. For me – I follow the latest NEC even if the local jurisdiction follows an earlier edition – as the latest Code requirements sometimes exceeds and essentially always meets the requirements of earlier Codes. That helps keep things simpler for me.The stated purpose of the NEC is “ … the practical safeguarding of persons and property from the hazards arising from the use of electricity.”The NEC is not a book intended for the homeowner to read and follow – as a matter of fact it states “This Code is not intended as a design specification or an instruction manual for untrained persons.”If you do have a need or interest in the reading NEC - most larger libraries have a copy, although it may not be of the latest edition.The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) - the publisher of the NEC, has free access to the latest (and many earlier versions) of the NEC available online. You do need to sign up to the NFPA web site - but this is free to do.Cities with Highly Modified Versions of the NECSome of the larger major cities adopt highly modified versions of the NEC. Two examples of this are:ChicagoChicago has its own version of the NEC, called the Chicago Electrical Code - CEC. The 2018 CEC is based on the 2017 NEC, but in some areas is highly modified. For example, the CEC:Does not allow use of NM/NMC “Romex” for permanent wiringAllows very limited use of AC (“BX” / Greenfield) or MC (metal-clad cable)(See later on for pictures of these wiring types)The result of this is that for new residential installations EMT (electrical metallic tubing. “thinwall”) is used, which is significantly more expensive and difficult to install that NM cable and AC/MC cable that is allowed in most other jurisdictions.States that Approved means: “tested by and bears the label of an approved testing laboratory. Any testing laboratory currently recognized as a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NRTL) by the United States Occupational Health and Safety Administration (OSHA) is approved. Self-certification of equipment or installations shall not be acceptable.”And many, many more modifications.The Chicago Electrical Code is by far the most stringent electrical code in the US that I am aware of.It is not at all clear to me what if any electrical work a homeowner in the City of Chicago is allowed to do. Contact the City of Chicago Building Commissioner’s office to find out.The Chicago Electrical Code is available for free access at the NFPA web site.New York CityThe current electrical code for NYC is Local Law 30 of 2011, located here:https://www1.nyc.gov/assets/buildings/pdf/ll39of2011_electrical_code.pdfNYC adopts the 2008 NEC with modifications, which NYC calls “electrical code technical standards.”NYC is working on adopting the 2014 NEC - so check the NYC web site for this activity.As with Chicago, it is not at all clear to me what if any electrical work a homeowner in NYC is allowed to do. Contact the City to find out.Suggested Reference BookI have read many of the books available on the subject of home electrical wiring for the US and have found many of them woefully lacking in one area or another.There is one book that I can highly recommend: “Wiring Complete – Third Edition” by Michael McAlister and Michael Litchfield, Taunton Press. (I have no affiliation with this book or anything else in this writing.)So before you start working on your project obtain and read this book. If there are things that are not clear ask about them.Necessary SkillsSome of the skills necessary to do this type of work include:Ability to read and comprehend EnglishNormal vision (corrected)Average or better manual dexterityAverage or better finger/hand strengthWorking knowledge of hand toolsWhere to Start – Your Local Electrical InspectorYour area most likely has an organization, office or person responsible for enforcing the requirements for electrical installations. This is the place to start.Technically the role is called the “authority having jurisdiction” – or AHJ.Depending on the area you live in the AHJ may be the:Fire Chief or Fire MarshalBuilding InspectorBuilding CommissionerElectrical InspectorOr others having statutory authorityIn larger areas there may be a Chief Electrical Inspector, Assistant Chief, Inspector Supervisors and a number of Inspectors at different levels – often assigned to specific areas of your geography.In some locations the function of the AHJ is contracted out to a company that provides these services.Look at the web site for your municipality and give them a call to find out who the AHJ is for your area.The web site for larger cities may have a link to the applicable electrical ordinance. You may want to download and read that document to have the background on how your jurisdiction handles things.What Information Can You Get from the AHJ?Describe to the AHJ the type of work you want to have done. Following are some of the questions you may want to ask the AHJ:As a homeowner – what type of electrical work am I allowed to do myself? Are there some types of work I need to hire a qualified electrician to do?What types of work can I do or have done without an electrical permit? What types of work require an electrical permit? Can I obtain a permit myself as a homeowner?If the work does require a permit, what documents do I need to submit to apply for a permit? (Often a sketch of the proposed wiring installation is required).What is the cost to apply for a permit?What if anything does your area require to have done differently than what the National Electrical Code (NEC) allows? For example, some jurisdictions require that:Only 20 amp receptacles be installed on 20 amp circuits.Nonmetallic-sheathed cable (NM, often referred to by the trade name “Romex”) may not be allowed in certain areas or any areas in a residence.Nonmetallic-Sheathed Cable: Types NM, NMC – “Romex”Sometimes various types of armored cable (AC, MC, etc.) may be required. Sometimes electrical metallic tubing – EMT, also called thinwall must be used in certain or all locations.Metal-Clad Cable: Type MCElectrical Metallic Tubing: Type EMT “Thinwall”Ground wire connections may require the use of a special crimp butt splice sleeve connector, not the traditional wirenut, and sometimes must be crimped with a special 4-way crimping tool.Crimp Butt Splice Sleeve Connector for Ground WiresConventional Crimp Tool4-Way Crimp ToolElectrical Work Not Requiring a PermitSome types of electrical work may not require a permit in your area. For example, in the city I live in (a larger city in the middle of the country) the homeowner may do the following electrical work without a permit:Minor repair work including the replacement of lamps, fuses, or breakers up to 60 amps.Following is what they consider “minor repair work:”“Minor repairs or replacement of any existing system are permitted to be made in the same manner and arrangement as in the existing system, provided such repairs or replacement are made in a safe manner and are approved. Minor repairs or replacement for purposes of this code shall be defined as:1. Replacement of a convenience outlet, except where the existing outlet is of the ungrounded type when replaced with grounding type that requires new wiring to provide grounding connection. Replacement units shall have the same current carrying capacity as the existing outlet.2. Light switch with the same current carrying capacity as the existing switch.3. Light socket and holder.4. Light fixture (1 maximum) installed on the same outlet box and having the same current rating.5. Within a dwelling unit, a fan, blower, pump, or other fractional horsepower motors of the same horsepower rating and having the same electrical characteristics and current rating as the existing, limited to 240 volts.”Definition of a HomeownerFollowing is the definition of a homeowner in the city I live in:“The owner of a single family dwelling which is owner occupied and used exclusively for living purposes along with the usual accessory buildings may apply for an electrical permit. The homeowner who qualifies as above must pass a written test which will be given to each applicant one time only for each scope of work. This test will be administered without charge. The applicant shall pay the permit fees required by this code. The homeowner will personally purchase all materials and personally perform all labor in connection with the permit being issued. This permit shall be limited to a room addition, repairs, modifications of existing systems, or burglar alarm systems and shall not include electrical service changes, rehab, or new construction.”Why Get a Permit?Why should a person bother to get a permit for the work? Doing so sounds like a lot of effort, will cost me, and no one will ever know anyway.Following are some of the reasons to obtain a permit:If you make a claim on your homeowner’s insurance policy because of a house fire and it was related to the wiring installation, or some other claim related to the electrical system, the insurance company may want to withhold payment if work done was not permitted.When you go to sell your house, if the house inspector finds deficiencies in the electrical system the buyer can request they be fixed. So it’s best just to make sure it is done properly in the first place.Along with the permit comes electrical inspections. Think of the electrical inspector as a technical resource who will help ensure your installation is safe. They will inspect and note any outages to you – things you might not have noticed – things that could represent fire or electrocution hazards in your home.In most jurisdictions the AHJ has the legal authority to have the electric utility company disconnect electrical service to your house if they have appropriate reason to do so, such as if a permit was not obtained to do electrical work.If the ordinance requires a permit and you did not get one, you can be held legally liable. In my city, the ordinance states “ … shall be subject to immediate arrest and, upon conviction, be fined not more than $500.00 or by imprisonment not exceeding 30 days or both such fine and imprisonment. Each day that a violation continues shall be deemed as a separate and distinct offense.”How often do some of these things happen? I don’t want to find out.What About Inspections Associated with an Electrical Permit?As I noted, think of the electrical inspector as a person who wants to help you ensure the work is done safely and to code. Treat them with respect and most likely you will find them to be friendly and helpful.My first experience with an electrical inspector was when I was 15 years old and had wired our room addition with “BX.”My total experience was having read an old Sears book on how to do electrical wiring. The inspector was thorough and found two outages in my work.One was that I had drilled holes in the 2x4 wall studs too close to the front of the stud, where errant nails could damage the cable. This concerned me, as I was worried I would have to rerun all of the BX cables. The inspector told me about steel safety plates that I could hammer into the wood studs, providing the required protection to the cables without requiring me to rerun everything.The other thing he pointed out was that I had not installed insulated anti-short bushings (now called “Red Heads” because they are red plastic) at the ends of the cables. Easy fix.The inspector was nice and kind to me – this was my first experience working with people in this capacity. To this day I respect people who do that kind of work – and it all stared so many years ago with that kind and friendly inspector.What Are Inspections Typically Like?Typically if you obtain an electrical permit two inspections will occur:A “rough-in” inspection. This inspection is done after the boxes are installed and cables run to the boxes, but before wall covering such as drywall is installed and before switches or receptacles are installed in the boxes.The purpose of the rough-in inspection is to give the inspector the opportunity to make sure the boxes have been properly installed and cables have been run properly, secured properly and terminated properly at the boxes. If the inspector finds any outages they will note them, then once you rectify any outages the inspector will return and issue you a document that indicates the installation has passed rough-in and that the wall covering and other subsequent work may proceed.A “final” inspection. This is done once the devices (switches, receptacles, etc.) are installed and wired, cover plates installed, etc. Once you pass this inspection final approval will be issued, allowing you to apply power to the system.What About the Inspector Looking at My Existing Electrical Installation?What if you are concerned that the inspector will look at your existing wiring, find it not up to present day Code, and make you spend a lot of money bringing it up to Code?Typically that won’t happen. There is a grandfathering clause in all electrical ordinances I know of that allows you to keep existing wiring in untouched areas of your home as-is.The wording generally is something like: “Additions, alterations, or repairs to any building, structure or premises shall conform to that required of a new building without requiring the existing building to comply with all the requirements of this Code. Additions, alterations or repairs shall not cause an existing installation to become unsafe or to adversely affect the performance of the building as determined by the authority having jurisdiction. Electrical wiring added to an existing service, feeder or branch circuit shall not result in an installation that violates the provisions of the Code in force at the time the additions are made.”However, the inspector typically does have the authority to do something about existing installations that she/he finds contains dangerous or hazardous conditions or equipment. I would not expect or want anything less.But Do I Really Need to Get a Permit?All I can do is give you information – the decision on what to do with that information and how to act on it is yours to make as an adult.Personal Protective Equipment – PPEIf done properly, you should generally not be working on or around live circuits. But consider this. Sometimes it is necessary to test with a voltmeter a circuit that is or may be live. The name of a recent trade magazine article is “Testing is Touching” – meaning that per NFPA 70E Standard for Electrical Safety in the Workplace testing a circuit with voltmeter is considered touching the circuit and requires the use of appropriate PPE.Well – we are not in a “workplace” but my safety is just as important to me if I am working at home as when at a workplace. Safety is the name of the game when working around electrical circuits, even if you think they may be de-energized.Below are some common-sense things to do when doing this type of work:Remove all jewelry, including necklaces, watches, bracelets and especially remove rings. I personally experienced seeing a co-worker get shocked through his ring, thrown four feet against a wall, getting knocked out and sliding down to the floor. (Fortunately he survived and was fine.)Wear safety glasses. I was working on an electrical installation, lifting up a ceiling tile in a false ceiling. No concern about live voltages – none whatsoever. Unbeknownst to me there were thick, non-coated bats of fiberglass insulation immediately above the ceiling tile. As I lifted up the ceiling tile some of the loose insulation fell on my head. I did not know it at the time, but a strand of fiberglass became embedded in my eyelash. Later that evening I rubbed my eye and that small fiberglass particle fell into my eye. Not knowing at the time what the source of the eye irritant was, I tried all the normal methods in an attempt to remove it. I pulled one eyelid over the other – no help. I flushed the eye out with water and held the eye in water – no relief. It was now 2:30 AM and it was really bothering me so I went to a 24 hour Urgent Care. They could see that the eye was irritated, put fluorescein drops in my eye, but could not locate the irritant. Later that day I went to my Ophthalmologist who used an ocular microscope to find the small fiberglass sliver and remove it. Bottom line – wear safety glasses!Wear a long sleeve 100% cotton shirt. Overkill – maybe, but easy to do and it will help protect the skin from an arc flash if one does occur. Don’t wear polyester because synthetics can melt and cause bad skin burns if subject to the heat generated in an arc flash.Wear thick rubber gloves – when testing a circuit with voltmeter probes, whether you think the circuit is live or not.Testing for VoltageI won’t go into the details of this, but read pages 16 and 17 of the “Wiring Complete – Third Edition” book that I referenced earlier.Working in Panels and SubpanelsI suggest you don’t work on or open a panel or subpanel, as the hazard level there is significantly greater than that in an outlet box. Hire an electrician to do this work for you. Many jurisdictions forbid panel work by non-licensed electricians.For more information on work on panels and subpanels read pages 262 – 279 of “Wiring Complete – Third Edition.” Particularly note the PPE shown on the electrician working on the panel on page 263.ToolsGFCI / Receptacle TesterThis tester gives a quick indication telling you if a receptacle has been wired properly or not. The exact lights that show this vary from tester to tester.Buy a tester with a GFCI test function. You will want to use this type of tester for GFCI’s rather than the test button built into the GFCI because on older GFCI’s this test button can give a false indication, whereas an external GFCI tester will be reliable in its results. Test all your GFCI’s with this, but especially test any outdoor GFCI’s – as they often go bad due to water intrusion.Non-contact Voltage TesterThese devices are very handy to test for the presence of voltage. Buy one that is rated CAT III or CAT IV and has a testing lab symbol, such as UL, CSA, TUV etc. Do not accept testers that only contain the CE Marking.Don’t consider the cheap testers that do not have a CAT number or are rated CAT I or CAT II.I prefer Fluke because I know them and trust them. Klein is another good brand. It’s my life and my money to spend. You can purchase other brands if you like, but I do suggest you make sure they are CAT rated as I noted and contain the testing symbol of an independent testing lab.Voltage TesterBuy one that is CAT III or CAT IV rated – I would buy one that has the CAT III 600 volt (or better still, 1,000 volt) rating, not the 300 volt rating – as the higher voltage rated devices are built to a better standard and can withstand higher transient voltages. Again – the choice is yours – but this is what I do to protect myself.And make sure the meter has markings from a testing lab such as UL, CSA, TUV etc. Do not accept meters that only contain the CE Marking – if you want to know why devices containing only the CE Marking are not acceptable ask me and I will tell you.VoltClaw ToolThis is a great tool to pull wires out of or push wires into an outlet box – safely and without damaging the wire insulation.Wire StripperEveryone has their favorite type. This is the kind I prefer for solid 14 gauge and 12 gauge wire.Cable RipperSlits the outer covering of 12/2 and 14/2 (both old and new) of non-metallic (type NM/NMC) sheathed cable.Sharp KnifeI like to use a box cutter. That way I always have a very sharp blade. I prefer the Lennox Gold.I use carbide blades because they last longer.HeadlampWhen you throw the circuit breaker to work on the light switch the room can get pretty dark and it becomes hard to see the wires in the switch outlet box. Holding a flashlight gets tedious, and ties up one of your hands.An inexpensive headlamp will make the task a LOT easier.Locknut WrenchesIt can be used to loosen or tighten a locknut by rotating the wrench in the direction of the arrows marked on both ends. Useful for tight places like the inside of boxes where pliers won’t fit.Tapping ToolUseful when an existing tapped hole, such as those on steel outlet boxes, get buggered up. The tap sizes are 6-32, 8-32 and 10-24, those most commonly used in hoe electrical work.A more comprehensive listing of tools is given on pages 18 - 23 of the “Wiring Complete – Third Edition” book.MaterialsSee pages 24 – 30 of the “Wiring Complete – Third Edition” book.I do want to mention something specifically about wirenuts. Some people find them difficult you use. You need to know how long to strip the wires – something that varies with wire size, the number of wires and the size/color of the wirenut.Connecting stranded wire to solid wire can be especially problematic to achieve a solid, tight connection unless you know the “trick” (leaving the stranded wire slightly longer than the solid wire and then wrapping the stranded wire around the solid wire).Also – people with limited hand strength often have a problem applying sufficient torque to the wirenut to make the connection tight.WAGO 221-Series LeverNuts are a wonderful solution to this problem. They are available in two, three and five wire versions, and accept both stranded and solid wires from 22 gauge to 12 gauge. They contain a strip gauge, and because they are made of clear plastic it is easy to see if the wire has been fully and properly inserted. Removing a wire from one is simply a mater of lifting up on the orange tab – much easier to do than removing a wire from a wirenut.Where to Go From HereIf after reading this and the referenced book you still have questions – ask away!