Go-For-It Consignment Program: Fill & Download for Free

If you live in the US, you should attend a good University for at least a couple of years. If you drop out to get a job, be prepared to demonstrate solid contributions to an open source project. Otherwise getting a descent job is pretty difficult. Experience counts, but until you get that first job, you dont have any experience.The advice that all companies care about is how good you are is crap. You have to get your resume past HR first. Credentials count there. The person on the team who is hiring for a position probably gets a hundred or more resumes for each position. Lack of a descent University on your resume, will get it consigned to the dust bin. Maybe you will luck out, but probably not.

It all depends on your lease contract but certainly doable.The most expensive way is to pay off the remaining balance of your lease and sell your car to dealership or private buyer. You can also trade in for a different car.Another way is to do a consignment program with local dealership. You would authorize a dealership to advertise and market your car and split the profit after sale. It wouldn’t be nationally recognized auto dealerships but mom and pop type of dealerships definitely would consider it. Most major dealers wouldn’t unless you have a high-end, exotic car but I’ve seen it done at Lexus dealership here in Los Angeles. I know Ferrari does consignment program. Also, you’d need to have an additional car because your car will be at the lot of dealership but you will save on registration and insurance.A general rule of thumb is swapalease or other online lease trade sites. I tried with my Lexus GS for someone to take over final year of my 36 month lease. I deducted a little more than $100/month in payment to entice potential lease takers - I found none. Not one soul was interested in lease takeover, rather I received several inbox messages to take over their lease. So, don’t even try this. It’s not worth your time nor money.If your car has a great resale value, go visit rental car companies, such as Hertz, Avis, Budget, etc. They buy cars all the time from dealerships and also privately. Some fleet and locations don’t have a lot of vehicles of certain kind. For example, a lot of people tend to move cross country for work or for school during the summer season so many prefer a truck or large SUVs. Rental car companies are definitely looking for value so be parepared to receive both good and bad offers. I know one person at my work that sold his 2017 Chevy Tahoe for decent price. After the appraisal, Enterprise offered him a check. And yes, his Tahoe was under a 4 year lease with 2.5 years left over. He did fork over some for the negative equity but he’d rather part ways with his car at that time. Not quite sure how much he paid though.Contrary to what most people think, CarMax buys lease cars. Make an appointment and get their appraisal. Try Carvana or Edmunds to receive their online quotes to see how much your car currently go for (not what the actual value is but how much these third party would pay to buy your car) to compare and see if CarMax is giving you a standard, accurate asssessment. If you have negative equity, you’d be responsible to pay that to CarMax. This way, I’m almost certain that you’ll pay fraction of what the entire lease will be by paying for the negative equity instead of paying for the remaining two years for your car’s lease. Any rep at CarMax should walk you through the process.The real question is how bad do you want to get out of your lease? Are you having financial issues? If so, speak to local certified financial planner or CPA to best assess your situation. Professional help outweighs any advices that you can receive online or from people around you.If you’re simply hating the car after a year, well, have this be a life lesson that you’ll never ever make again. If anything, buy the car outright; you could be listing to sell right now instead of asking your initial question.Good luck!

I actually have TWO stories but it won’t let me answer twice. My first story involves already driving off the lot with papers signed.For some quick snapshot details before the story begins… He is trading in his 1998 Jeep Cherokee, they offer 1k for it and he can leave with a 2012 Modern Warfare 3 edition manual Jeep Wrangler. Badass rig one of a kind type thing. I’m his co-signer. Longtime friend so I helped him out. Probably not smart but is what it is. Experience with the dealer was not great. Handed us Keys and set a temp license plate down on the desk but never once told us if we were accepted. Took about 4 hours to get from the test drive to in front of the finance woman. Finally the deal is done and we leave. A few days later the bank that financed him calls our place of work (we worked together at that time. Small shop). I answer, “Hi this is so and so with whatever bank looking for *friends name*? Yes let me hand you to him.”They talk for a bit and it’s already off to a bad start. Apparently, she’s calling to confirm his employment. We worked sales so we stated we made quite a bit of money. Which we did and had the paystubs to prove it. She says she needs to speak to a manager however I was the only management available. She starts asking if I am the same “Trey” that is his co-signer? We confirm and she says she can’t speak to me to confirm our employment and other details they need. She’s immediately Sherlock Holmes thinking something is wrong or fraudulent. She states she’ll call back and hangs up. We think nothing of it and understand that it definitely is weird for the only manager available to confirm things is the same person cosigning. They call back again a few days down the line and it’s me they get again. We try to hand the phone to a fellow co worker (tight knit small crew of 5 including myself working there) she gets on and answers questions and everything seems fine. Was that a bad move? Maybe. But at this point they have refused to consider me a person eligible to answer their questions about my friends job status and income due to me being a consigner. They also refused to take down the private number of our boss to call him. They also wouldn’t schedule a call back time. So it was always pure chance when they’d call. Every time they did our boss was never there. Fast forward about two - three weeks of him having the Jeep. Dealership calls:“Hey Mr *friends name* the bank has backed out of the financing deal. There’s no bank backing your purchase. We need the car back”We’re all stunned. The bank thought something fraudulent was happening (I assume?) and backed out. My friend being a pretty collected guy simply says that’s unfortunate. What are my options? They talk about possibly trying again but say at this point there isn’t much. At that point I also had been thinking me signing was a bad deal and also backed out. He’s on his own and his credit is pretty bad. So, he asks for his trade back and will call it a lesson learned. He’s met with“we sold that a week after you left, we can write you a $1,000 check though”Immediately no longer calm and collected. He tells them he shouldn’t be out of a vehicle because they failed to secure the deal the day he was there. Why is it his fault they didn’t ask for what was needed PRIOR to “finalizing”? For about a week or so they work with him trying to figure out what’s next and what they could possibly do. They have a new/bad credit program that could put him in something lesser but he’s a hardcore wrangler fan and he wasn’t about to drive a Jeep renegade.In the end after having the vehicle nearly a month, trading in a vehicle and signing papers they couldn’t make an agreement. He was outta options and returned the vehicle. Definitely a shame and I’ve NEVER heard of something like this happening. Felt bad as I had just purchased a new 2019 TRD off road Tacoma so he was bumped everyday he walked out and saw my new truck next to the empty spot he used to park. He went from a 98’ beater to an amazing limited Wrangler to carless in about a month. Luckily he was able to get a BMW pretty cheap a bit later and everything worked out!My second story isn’t nearly as fun as a few others but it was at a “no credit check” type place. They wanted 17k for a 2007 2wd Toyota FJ Cruiser. Had about 170k miles. Pretty pricey. I get it, FJs atopped production in 2014 (I believe) and they have a fairly decent following. 4WD ones go for 30k+, which is absolutely insane.I didn’t like the price and salesman wasn’t being much of a salesman. More of a “take it or leave it I could care less” attitude. Guy was nice just not a salesman. Anyway, he lied about how long it was on the lot. I had passed by it for a few weeks before I made a move. He told me they JUST got it the “other day”. He also wasn’t budging on price but I wanted an FJ and decided what the hell and moved forward anyway. Not sure why I didn’t leave the deal earlier due to the experience but it arguably wasn’t a bad time just lack of negotiation and “want” to sell. They wanted $2k down, $450 a month. On top of that my insurance was going to go up to $390ish from $220. So I started paying the down payment, and something just wasn’t sitting right and it was starting to click in my head just how bad the deal was. And that I was letting myself get blinded by what was directly in front of me rather than the big picture. Which thinking back it moved faster than any other car buying experience I’d ever been apart of by MILES. Granted, I’m sure that’s part of their sales process for everyone. Get em signed and out before they know what hits em.The purchase price and the monthly price weren’t great by any means. There was also no way to pay more to bring the principle interest or monthly payments down. I can pay more but there’s no “bonus” to it other than potentially paying it off earlier. So I walked over to the wife and let her know how I was feeling and she said she thought the whole deal from the beginning was bad and the fact that I was asking her was me answering my own question. Keep a good woman in you’re life. They’re important!So, I had them refund the partial down payment ($1,000) I had started to make and I walked. The finance lady tried telling me it was really too late and it would take weeks to get the money refunded. Told her that was totally fine I don’t touch that money anyways(side note, I caught it early enough to where within the hour the money was back in my account). The guy ran up to my car and said he could hold the first half of the down payment and apply it to my first payment. Told him the down payment wasn’t the problem, and that wasn’t really helping anyone even if it was. I had the money. It was your asking price and your inability to negotiate something I clearly want to buy from you. He shook his head and said sorry. Handed me his card and we text back and forth for the next two weeks. He NEVER budged a cent no matter what I did. Two weeks later they moved the car to a sister location because it wasn’t selling. I called that sister location asked about price. Yep you guessed it. Hadn’t budged. They’ve had that vehicle in their possession for 2–3 months now. I’m sure they still tell everyone asking that it just arrived.*Fun fact. As I’m editing this Jan 2nd, 2021 the FJ is STILL for sale by them. Should check back weekly and start bets. (That means they’ve had this vehicle since at the very least Oct of 2020 but that’s only when I looked at it. Well before then)Hopefully those stories weren’t too convoluted or messy! Hard to type out novels on a phone lol!