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Why are some electrical outlets on the wall installed upside down? Why are there electrical outlets high up on a wall?

I see that you live in the US, so this answer is for the US.This is primarily written for, as the question asks, electrical outlets mounted on walls.It is also primarily written for residential and light commercial (apartment buildings, hotels, dormitories, office buildings, etc.) applications, not heavy commercial, industrial and other special applications.I have to add that there is no way that in such an answer that I can possibly cover and discuss each and every part of the National Electrical Code that covers this. For that the reader is directed to the National Electrical Code itself.Receptacles, Not OutletsWhat you are talking about are technically called receptacles (per the National Electrical Code, Article 100 Definitions) - more specifically 125 volt, 15 and 20 amp receptacles.Outlet is defined in 2017 NEC Article 100 as “A point on the wiring system at which current is taken to supply utilization equipment.” Information in the 2017 NEC Handbook goes on to say “The term outlet is frequently misused to refer to receptacles. Although receptacle outlets are outlets, not all outlets are receptacles outlets. Other common examples of outlets include lighting outlets and smoke alarm outlets”Thanks to Mark Bertacchi, a Master Electrician, for the way he words this: “An outlet is the point where the building wiring method exits the wall, ceiling or floor and is usually terminated in a box - thus the term ‘outlet box’.”Outlets are the things that receptacles are placed in. I want you to know the terminology that the governing code uses - but you can call them whatever you want.125 Volt, 15 Amp Duplex Decora Receptacle125 Volt, 20 Amp Duplex Decora ReceptacleNational Electrical Code RequirementsThe National Electrical Code (NEC) is the electrical installation code used in all 50 states and all U.S. Territories - reference NEC Preface.For electrical receptacles installed in walls, the NEC does not specify orientation, either vertical or horizontal, and if vertical it does not specify ground pin down or ground pin up.125 Volt, 15 Amp Duplex Standard Receptacle, Vertical and Horizontal Mounted125 Volt, 15 amp Duplex Decora Receptacle, Mounted Vertically, Ground Pin Down125 Volt, 15 amp Duplex Decora Receptacle, Mounted Vertically, Ground Pin UpMounting Orientation PracticeBy far the most common mounting orientation in the US for such receptacles mounted in walls is vertical, ground pin down.I happen to live in an area where receptacles are mounted ground pin up. I have read through the electrical ordinance for my city and it states nothing about the orientation of receptacles.I met with an electrical inspector in my city to discuss this. He told me there is no requirement in the city for receptacle orientation, and that he would approve installations where the ground pin was mounted up or down. I subsequently met with the Acting Chief Electrical Inspector and the Chairman of the Board of Electrical Examiners for my city, who both confirmed there is no requirement in my city for receptacle orientation. They noted that receptacles are typically installed ground pin up because that is the way the trade schools in the area teach - it’s done because of local convention, not regulation.I have been told by others that their city has a requirement that ground pins be mounted up. I have looked through the most stringent electrical standards I know of in the US - the electrical ordinance for New York City and the Chicago Electrical Code (a modification of the NEC) and nowhere can I find any mention of receptacle orientation for wall-mounted receptacles.If your jurisdiction has a requirement for receptacle orientation I would be interested in knowing about it. Please give me the reference to the ordinance that states the requirement and I will add that information to this answer.Horizontal Mounted ReceptaclesFor horizontal mounted receptacles the best arrangement is to place the grounding hole to the left - which places the wider neutral slot on top. This way if something metal falls on the partially exposed blades the item will hit the grounded neutral blade instead of the hot blade.Vertical Mounted ReceptaclesThere are a lot of differing opinions on this. I will include some of them below.Ground Pin Up SafetySome argue that the ground pin up orientation is safer because if a conductive object of the right size (for example, a metal paper clip) falls and lands on a plug that has a ground pin, where the plug is inserted far enough to be energized but not so far that the prongs are fully inserted and covered, because:With the ground pin down, that metal object might make contact with the hot blade and become energized, or might make contact with the hot and neutral blades and create a short.Whereas with the ground pin up, a falling metal object will make contact with the ground pin and therefore not create a hazard.I will let you determine how likely such an event is to occur, and if you want to orient your receptacles to deal with that potential hazard.One person noted hearing a radio interview with one of the original designers of the North American three prong receptacle and plug. Reportedly the designer expressed great frustration with the way it was being used because the intention when it was designed was to orient it with the ground plug up for all the reasons noted above. He apparently reported that ground plug down became the default largely by accident and subsequently many things have been designed around that assumption, making ground plug up difficult at best.If anyone can find a reference to this I would greatly appreciate it.Ground Pin Down SafetyAn alternate argument proposed by some is that the receptacle should be oriented with the ground pin down because a person grabbing the plug will have their index finger at the bottom side of the plug and the index finger sticks out further than the thumb. Having the ground down will keep a person's index finger from touching the live pins. Another argument for ground pin down is that if something drops down and hits the plug, the ground pin will be the last thing to lose contact.Living with Ground Pin Up ReceptaclesFor those of us who live in areas where the ground pin is mounted up, we experience the problem shown below when the plug of the type shown is used. This type of plug is most common on larger appliances.This is a real PIA for us, and can be unsafe in that the cord can more easily get crushed by dressers and the like pushing against them.This issue also occurs with the surge suppressor type that I prefer - shown below.Because of these problem some suggest that receptacles for heavier appliances that more commonly use this type of plug - such as clothes washing machines, refrigerators, window air conditioners, some microwave ovens - be mounted ground pin down. This is so that the plug inserts without having the cord loop over itself. Also the downward pull of the cord tends to tug the plug from the receptacle if the receptacle is mounted ground pin up.Then mount all other receptacles ground pin up.Another issue occurs when items like small power supplies (sometimes called “wall-warts”) and the GFCI-like plugs for hair dryers are installed in ground pin up receptacles - which tend to make them fall out.Split-Wired ReceptaclesIn some areas it is practice to mount duplex receptacles that are split-wired (one receptacle in the duplex controlled by a wall-mounted light switch, the other directly wired) one way - generally ground pin up, and duplex receptacles that were not split-wired mounted the other way (generally ground pin down). Then people can visually see if a receptacle is split-wired or not. I heard from several people in an area in Florida and some in California that mentioned this was a standard in their area.It should be noted that if a split-wired receptacle is fed as a multi-wire branch circuit (as shown in the diagram above) “Each multiwire branch circuit shall be provided with a means that will simultaneously disconnect all ungrounded conductors at the point where the branch circuit originates.” [Reference 2020 NEC 210.4(B)]. This can be accomplished by the use of two single-pole circuit breakers with an identified handle tie or a 2-pole circuit breaker, or by a 2-pole switch [reference 2020 NEC Handbook, 210.4(B), blue text, second paragraph.]Another perspective, in conflict with the one above - is that whatever convention is used all receptacles in a facility should be mounted the same way.Note: For split-wired receptacles there is no NEC requirement on which half of the receptacle be switched - top half or bottom half. To me the most sensible thing would be to switch the bottom half - as that is generally a light that is not moved, leaving the top half more easily accessible to plug in whatever you would like.Hospital ReceptaclesMost if not all hospital receptacles you will see in the US are mounted ground pin up.Note: If you are dealing with electrical systems in hospitals Quora is not the place to go for answers. Standards and regulations governing hospital electrical systems are very particular and specific. You need trained, qualified and experienced professionals to deal with your systems. The following is for general information only and is not intended to be used for guidance for actual hospital applications.Standards for Hospitals that Mention ReceptaclesIEEE 602–2007 Electrical Systems in Health Care Facilities - in 4.4.3 “Hospital grade receptacles” says this:“Parallel blade devices should be mounted ground pin or neutral blade up. In this configuration, any metal that drops between the plug and the wall will most likely contact a non-energized blade. While either 15 A or 20 A receptacles are permitted, it is highly desirable to use only 20 A within a health care facility. This allows for greater flexibility in equipment usage and simplifies stocking of replacement receptacles.”Note the use of the word “Should.” In standard electrical code language, “Should” means a strong suggestion, whereas “Shall” means a requirement.One person stated there is a more general IEEE document that suggests that receptacles be oriented ground pin up, but to date no one has provided a reference to any such document.NFPA 99 Standard for Health Care Facilities has no statement about receptacle orientation that I could find. It does, however, state that the receptacle shall have a retention force of not less than 4 oz. for the grounding blade (4.3.3.2.4).It has been reported that some hospital accrediting organizations require outlets be mounted ground pin up to pass inspection, and I have no reason to not believe this. But another person noted that ground pin up was not required to pass inspection - perhaps this is with a different accrediting organization. Without specific references to the applicable standards I have no way of checking this.And as I said, Quora is NOT the place to go to for information about electrical wiring systems in hospitals.Ground Pin Up or Down - It’s Up to YouPeople can (and do) argue vehemently for one way or the other.Many have stated they have seen “somewhere” a requirement that the ground pin be up. I have searched through the NEC back through 1968, read through the US Occupational Safety and Health Act (OSHA), looked at the NYC and Chicago modifications to the NEC, read many local ordinances about their electrical code, looked at UL Standards - but to date have not been able to find any such thing in any document. If you can provide me with a specific reference I will be glad to add it here - if there is such a thing.Because the regulations governing this do not specify an orientation, you are allowed to chose whichever orientation practice you want.What Would I Do?If I were wiring an existing facility I would continue with the convention already in place in that facility.If I were wiring a new home, I would orient the receptacles ground pin down.Why? Because:The risk difference between this orientation and ground pin up is marginal at best, in my opinion.Having lived with ground pin up, I don’t like it for reasons stated above.I typically don’t split-wire receptacles, and if I did I would not care to have them identified. If you do, that’s fine with me!I am not going to use metal faceplates that might slip and fall onto a partially exposed plug - I use non-conductive nylon faceplates (as described below).I use quality receptacles that provide good tight tension for the plug, not the $0.39 specials that lose tension with use. I test the tension of my receptacles periodically using a Daniel Woodhead 1760 Receptacle Tension Tester. I replace receptacles when their tension falls below the specified standard.In new residential wiring our receptacles are protected by:A circuit breaker to protect against overloads and short circuitsAlmost always a GFCI to protect against ground faultsAlmost always an AFCI to protect against arcing faultsA tamper-resistant receptacle that almost forces a plug to get fully inserted - try one for yourself and find out.FaceplatesIn my opinion the object most likely to fall as noted and potentially become energized is a metal faceplate. Because of this I don’t use metal faceplates - instead I use break-resistant nylon faceplates (not the $0.99 easily breakable faceplates).If for some reason you feel the need to use a metal faceplate that is your decision - just know that from an electrical safety standpoint I don’t personally believe that to be the wisest decision.Metal Faceplate“Unbreakable” Nylon FaceplateMy favorite faceplate is a Decora-type faceplate - specifically the Lutron Claro line. It offers the following advantages:The Decora-type receptacle faceplate is held on by two screws, unlike the standard faceplate that is held on with a single screw. This makes the Decora faceplate a lot less likely to come loose and fall down.Decora Style Duplex Receptacle. The two faceplate mounting screw holes are above and below the screw heads in the photo.The Lutron Claro faceplate has no exposed screws. This makes for a safer installation, one that is easier to clean, and one with a more modern look.Lutron Claro Duplex Receptacle FaceplateExceptionsThere is one place where the NEC does specify something in relation to receptacle orientation.2017 NEC 406.5(G) - new to the 2017 NEC, states “Receptacles shall not be installed in a face-up position in or on countertop surfaces or work surfaces unless listed for countertop or work surface applications.” I guess I thought that was a reasonable, sensible and understandable thing until some people asked why this was being included.It follows the basic rule - one that I hope most people know and understand, that water and electricity do not mix. A receptacle mounted in a face-up position on a countertop or work surface has the potential to have water that is on the surface run into the receptacle and outlet. I hope that is clear and the potential issues with that are clear to people.UL Listed Pop-Up Receptacle - Hubbell-Kellemshttps://www.vanmeterinc.com/asse...https://www.vanmeterinc.com/asse...New to the 2020 NEC at 406.5(G)(2) prohibits mounting receptacles in a face-up position in the area below a sink. That new addition makes sense to me.Why Are Some Electrical Receptacles Installed High Up On a Wall?Receptacles generally are installed about 18 inches above the floor.To be counted as a “dwelling unit receptacle outlet” as required by 2017 NEC 210.52, the receptacles shall be:If mounted in the floor, within 18 inches of the wall - 2017 NEC 210.52(A)(3).If mounted in the wall, not more than 5.5 feet above the floor - 2017 NEC 210.52(1).Read the information below on “Special Occupancies” and you might decide that 48 inches is a better choice for maximum height for many locations (and 18 inches as a minimum height).There may be reasons to install receptacles at other heights. One reason is to power old electric clocks. Another is for some appliances, such as:washing machinesmicrowave ovenswall mounted TVsReceptacles in bathrooms, basements, garages, accessory buildings, on mantleplaces, in hotels, motels, and dormitories (where laptop computers are often used) are other examples where receptacles are generally mounted higher.One person noted placing receptacles mounted in basements at a higher location due to concerns about flooding. Another person noted placing receptacles on the first floor higher up due to concerns about flooding. That makes sense to me, especially if the facility is in a location where flooding is a possibility.FEMA (Federal Emergency Management Agency) notes this in their document 551 Selecting Appropriate Mitigation Measures for Floodprone Structures - Chapter 6 “Wet Floodproofing” 6.2.4 “Location of Utilities.” Here is what it says “Any electrical outlets should be relocated or elevated to higher areas on the wall above the flood protection elevation, as there is a danger of not being unable to shut off the electrical panel before the basement floods. Relocation of utilities also includes the electrical service panel …” https://www.fema.gov/media-library-data/20130726-1609-20490-5083/fema_551.pdfWhere receptacles are mounted behind a bed, the receptacle shall be located to prevent the bed from contacting any attachment plug that may be installed or the receptacle shall be provided with a suitable guard - 2017 NEC 210.62(B).Hospitals often have receptacles mounted high on the wall so they are visible, readily accessible, and so that the cords don’t drape over the floor where they can present a trip hazard, beds could roll over them, etc.Height Requirements for Special OccupanciesReportedly various regulations, codes and standards have requirements for the height of receptacles. I don’t have the interest in tracking all of these down, because I am not involved in these situations. However if you are you need to be aware of any special requirements.Listed below are some things I have heard about, but have not independently verified:California Building Code 2016 (Volume 1) 1136A.1 requiring electrical receptacle outlets on branch circuits of 30 amperes or less to be located no more that 48 inches measured from the top of the receptacle outlet box nor less than 15 inches measured from the bottom of the receptacle outlet box to the level of the finished floor or working platform.Fair Housing Act, HUD Section 504, Rehabilitation act of 1973 (24CFR 8.22) with the same requirements as noted above for the California Building Code.The Massachusetts State Electric Code 521 CMR 39.3 Height reportedly has similar requirements.ADA (Americans With Disabilities Act) says this:28CFR Part 36, Section 4.2.5 “Forward Approach” - maximum height 48 inches.28CFR Part 36, Section 4.2.6 “Parallel Approach” - maximum height 54 inches.28CFR Part 36, 4.2.7.3 “Height” - minimum 15 inches. Maximum height as specified in 4.2.5 and 4.2.6. EXCEPTION: These requirements do not apply where the use of special equipment dictates otherwise or where electrical and communications systems receptacles are not normally intended for use by building occupants.New York City Local Law No. 39 for the year 2015 (Int. No. 433-A) “Table 3: Typical Mounting Heights.” It states 18 inches for receptacles.NECA 1–2015 “Good Workmanship in Electrical Construction” - Chapter 11 , Table 3 shows 18 inches for general receptacle outlets, finished floor to centerline of the device.International Building Code: The IBC says nothing about this topic. It references the National Electrical Code as the code to use (reference 2018 IBC Chapter 27 “Electrical,” Section 2710 “General”).I enjoyed writing this. I hope you enjoyed reading it!

Why hasn't a company cracked the code to mass produce a super-low cost Tinyhouse on wheels?

Well, I guess it depends on what you call “super-low cost” added to the complication of THOW.The concept of THOW started with legalities—it wasn’t considered a structure if it had wheels and could go down the road.But, now that the movement has legs, communities are cracking down. Full-time RV’ers were always able to live in their RV because they move and it’s harder to track. But, it was never really legal to live in one on a plot of land.So, when you start talking about mass manufacturing something that’s not quite legal to begin with, you have to start worrying about code and code changes from county to county and state-to-state.And the true cost of a tiny home on wheels is the trailer. You can do a lot to keep your own prices down with a lot of sweat equity and reclaimed materials, but you need a trailer that can withstand the weight and that’s beyond your typical camper trailer. There’s no real way to get around that.Then, there’s the very personal side. Every lifestyle is different and every tiny needs to be individualized.But, there are mass producers. FEMA uses them for emergency shelters in natural disaster areas.Otherwise, there are mass-producers of modular and unfoldable tiny homes that are at least within range of most tiny houses. These can be transported and set up on site. But, unfoldable technology can be a bit pricey!Still, look what MADI is trying to do to bring people affordable housing:MADi Home: Italian Designed Affordable HousingA house that deploys in 10 minutes means that you could take your house with you if you had to move:Nestpods are mass produced and modified inside to meet the usage needs of the homeowner.There’s this prefab experiment going on in France to create a modular house for only $1200 and it goes up in 3 hours! Obviously, that’s going to be for off-grid people, though. Roughing in plumbing and electricity would take longer.And, the Slovak Republic has developed a self-sustaining house that can be dropped anywhere for 80,000 Euros? It’s not available in the US, but if you look into enough, they’ve pretty much given away the tech information on it.I guess the solution you’re looking for is blending affordability and wheels and it feels like you can’t have both in mass production. I’ve seen plenty that were done on a budget, however.

Can someone suddenly claim they are the new property owners of a house and are assuming a lease if no lease exists, and I own the property? I have been living in my home for 26 years. Is this a crime that I report to police, or file a civil lawsuit?

On the surface, this might appear to be an insincere question, especially since it was posted by Anonymous, that prolific rascal. But let’s take a closer look…In the continental United States, every piece of real estate is tracked or recorded. They are public record, and are usually kept with the County Recorder’s office. As public records, anyone who wants the information can take steps to get it; those steps may vary by county and by state.This record is called a title, and the real “test” of whether you have ownership of a property is based on whether your name is on the title. [1] If your name is on the title, then the property is unquestionably yours, within the continental United States. If someone is giving you a hard time, you can really just ignore it. And if they trespass your property—or refuse to leave—call the police, because then it has become a criminal matter.But why do I keep qualifying my answer with “within the continental United States”?Hurricane Maria was a deadly Category 5 hurricane that devastated Dominica, St. Croix, and Puerto Rico in September 2017. It is regarded as the worst natural disaster in recorded history to affect those islands. At the time, there were about 1,237,180 million homes. Of those, 1,138,843 (92 percent) were damaged by the hurricane. And of those damaged, 1,118,862 (98 percent) applied for the Federal Emergency Management Agency’s (FEMA) Individuals and Households Program (IHP) as of May 2018. 40% were rejected. Why?Puerto Rico, an island in the Caribbean Sea, has been a territory of the United States since 1898, after the U.S. defeated Spain in the Spanish-American war. Puerto Ricans by birth have American citizenship and can move freely between the island and the U.S. mainland. But unlike Hawaii, Puerto Rico is not a state. That means it does not have voting power in Congress and its citizens can’t vote in presidential elections.[2]But that’s not the only difference between Puerto Rico and the mainland. Based upon Spanish law, property rights in Puerto Rico are structured very differently there. Puerto Rico has a history of informal construction. Anywhere between 585,000–715,000 (45–55 percent) of homes and commercial buildings in Puerto Rico have been constructed without building permits or following land use codes, according to a 2018 study of the Puerto Rico Builders Association. It is estimated that 260,000 homes in Puerto Rico do not have titles or deeds.Further complicating this situation is a lack of historical documentation. This results from the fact that in Puerto Rico many people live on land that has been subdivided generationally in their families, though they never went through a formal process of subdividing the land. Similarly, many heirs have not gone through the process of declaring inheritance. In Puerto Rico, it is common to see someone occupying a home still under the name of deceased parents or family members. Finally, for many in Puerto Rico, getting proper documentation is not commonplace when a family acquires the property. One might have bought land lawfully and have no title merely because the person who owned it before did not have one. The Lack of Proof of Ownership in Puerto Rico Is Crippling Repairs in the Aftermath of Hurricane MariaFEMA award guidelines simply do not account for this type of chaotic situation. They can’t just award thousands of dollars to an individual who has almost no evidence of property ownership. FEMA has caught flack for many things in its checkered history…but this one was not their fault. The agency has worked to develop alternate means of proving property ownership, to their credit. But the brutal fact is: if Puerto Rico had done the hard work of getting its property ownership framework in line with the mainland’s, FEMA would not have been so hamstrung in regards to providing aid.Returning to the question: if you are in the continental United States, no problem. If you are in Puerto Rico, find a real estate attorney ASAP.EDIT: I believe that a properly filed, clear title and deed (which shows property transfer) are any homeowner’s best defense against attempts to deny their property ownership, called adverse possession. If someone builds on your property (a fence, a driveway, etc.) or people show up to your house claiming that they own it, or are renting it, these are acts of adverse possession, and must be dealt with. Seek the advice of a real estate attorney immediately.Commenter John O’Neal also warns to beware of House Stealing; this link goes to an FBI page explaining this particular form of fraud. He outlines some steps to take to address this criminal activity.Footnotes[1] What You Need To Know About Deeds And Property Transfer[2] Is Puerto Rico Part of the U.S? Here's What to Know

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