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Theoretically you could hit the lotto tomorrow. However, if you have been working for twenty years and have little or no savings, the millions from the lotto wouldn’t stick to your fingers either. See what you can do to increase your income and begin a disciplined savings and investment program.Your banker can show you how to open up an IRA if you are working and don’t have one. Begin there with a few dollars taken out of each check. That’s a pain in the neck to cash in so, if nothing else, have a small bank account and periodic investments into an IRA as well. As soon as your balance gets large enough, buy a certificate of deposit in the IRA. This is a good start for someone with absolutely nothing. Meanwhile, start learning a little about the stock market so you can open your next IRA with a no-load mutual fund.You should also study all your employee benefits for any other ways to save pre-tax. Because I don’t know what you make, I couldn’t be more specific. It all depends on what your tax bracket is so I am assuming you are very poor. If so, having something takes precendence over “being a millionaire.” In the United States there are some tax credits available for very low income people who save in an IRA or employer’s retirement plans and that will lower your effective cost. You could knock as much as a thousand off your taxes by putting the first two thousand in an IRA or your employer’s retirement savings. If you have a 401K at work, even better. Employers usually match some of those dollars. Given a choice, fund that one firstWhen you leave your job, make sure not to cash that in. Have a check made out this way: The name of the institution that you will be transfering your money to, FOR BENEFIT OF, Your Name, IRA or you can have the bank or brokerage handle it when you transfer the money. NEVER take a check in your name because a huge tax will be taken off the top. The government will give you 60 days to transfer your money to a new IRA or 401K and because they have already taken a fifth of the money off the top, you will be unable to do this and will be hit with penalties.

01Save for Your Emergency FundIt's important to have an emergency fund, almost two-thirds of American adults said they couldn't cover 6 months' worth of expenses with their savings. In fact, 40 percent of Americans don't even have an extra $400 available for emergencies, according to CNN Money.set aside to cover unexpected expenses. According to a Bankrate surveyThis could be an unexpected car repair, your emergency appendectomy or a sudden job loss. If the economy starts to slow down and your job is at risk, you'll be thankful if you've socked away a good amount of money into your emergency fund to tide you over until you find a new job.Ideally, your emergency fund should be about three to six months of your expenses. The Bureau of Labor and Statistics estimates average household monthly spending at about $4,776, which means an emergency fund for six months should hold about $28,650.If you are just starting out, try to put aside at least $1,000.00 to start. If you are working to get out of debt, save what you can to bring your emergency fund up to between six to 12 months' worth of your income. If you are single or living on just one income, you may want to go with a larger emergency fund.Another reason to increase your emergency fund is the continuing rise in medical costs. Even if you have insurance or Medicare, you might find yourself with a health condition or medication requirements that isn't fully covered by insurance. In addition to your emergency fund, make sure you have a plan and good insurance in place to help you financially survive unexpected events in your life.02Save for RetirementAnother important reason to save money is your retirement. The sooner you start saving for retirement, the less you will have to save in the future. You can put your money to work for you, especially if you take advantage of the magic of compounding interest.For example, if you opened an account with $1, deposited $100 every month for 10 years, and earned a 6.5 percent interest rate or return, you'd have $16,842. Keep it up for another 10 years (20 total) and you'll more than double your money to $49,045. After 30 years of just $100 each month saved, you'd have $110,624 (including compounded interest) from your $36,000 investment.As you continue to contribute over time you will be earning more interest on the money you have, than you put in each month.You should at least be contributing up to your employer's match and eventually, you should contribute 10 to 15 percent of your gross income. You can contribute to your 401(k) as well as an IRA.03Save for a Down Payment for a HouseSave money for a down payment on a house. Your negotiating power goes a lot farther when you have a significant down payment towards your home. You will receive better interest rates, and be able to afford a bigger home.Don't worry if you don't think you can save enough for a 20-percent down payment. Certain government-backed programs offer down payments as low as 3 percent or no down payment at all, and the national average, according to The Lender's Network, is 6 percent.You can determine how much you save towards this each month depending on your circumstances. Saving for a bigger down payment will help you move into a better neighborhood and make it easier to buy your dream home. It also reduces the amount of your mortgage, making your payments more affordable.04Save to Maximize Interest RatesWhen interest rates go up, put your money into savings vehicles that pay the highest rates, whether you use Certificates of Deposit (CDs), a high-yield savings account, or another investment that pays a high enough rate to offset inflation.On the flip side, when interest rates rise, your credit card rates will also go up. In this case, it makes sense to fatten up your savings account before interest rates go up so that you can pay cash for expenses instead of relying on more expensive credit.05Save for Vacations, a New Car or Luxury ItemsSave money to have fun as you don't want to be paying off your trip to Europe in five years. Even if you save up for your vacation, try to save on your vacation expenses. This is saving for the fun things, and it is often easier to motivate yourself to save this way.You can also purchase your next new car with cash. You will be amazed at how much money you can free up in your budget if you do not always have a car payment.You can also negotiate the price of the car much lower if you are willing to pay cash at the dealership. Living without a car payment can make a huge difference in your monthly budget, and you can save a lot of money for your other goals once you start paying for your cars in cash.06Save for Known, Large ExpensesSet up a sinking fund, which is money you set aside for future, known expenses such as yearly taxes you owe, repairs on your car, or improvements on your home or other possessions.This extra saving can help prevent you from needing to dip into your emergency fund. You can set your sinking fund based on the expected cost of items like a kitchen remodel or the average of an unexpected cost like car repairs.07College EducationBegin saving money for your future education. Each year more people return to school to earn their masters or doctorate degrees. And that comes with a hefty price tag. As of 2017, public colleges had an average cost of about $9,410 for in-state tuition and $$23,893 for out-of-state tuition. Private colleges cost $32,405 on average, and the cost of both public and private education continues to rise by about 6 percent each year.You may also consider saving for your child's education when the time comes. If you are saving for your child's education, you should look into using a 529 plan.There are different options and incentives available based on the state that you are living in. If you are interested in going back to school for yourself, think about saving for more than just tuition. If you will go back full time, you may also want to save up to cover your living expenses.Hope I answered your question well….!!!

They are quite low from what I find (for IT related jobs). But I'm also usually in a senior role with 10+ years experience. Maybe they are entry level or 2-3 years of experience where they got their data? Here are other factors that affect rates for me:Your Choice of JobsJob sites like monster, dice, etc have a ranking algorithm. Things like ... how long your resume has been on there, what titles, keywords, work history, last updates etc all play a factor into who finds you and how often they find you. I think I have this down pretty good because on a bad day I get 35-50 recruiters trying to contact me, and on a good day it can be as high as 75. With that many choices each day it's easy to pick only the best, high paying offers.You'll see below that I also make up to 5 resumes at once when I'm looking for work. I usually get through the screening and interview process within 2 -3 weeks and start by the 4th after a project ends. And yes, I keep backup money just in case it takes me longer to find a good paying job.1099 vs W2I do 1099 through my own corporation instead of W2 which boosts the rate by another 10% or so 45/hr becomes 50/hr, 65/hr becomes 72/hr, 70 an hour becomes 80 an hour, etc. On top of the rate boost I'm able to write off more things and have a better quality of life overall by refusing to take W2 contracts. As an example, my home office, internet, vehicle, certain meals, certain trips, training, college, etc all become "write offs". I then pay my children a small portion (5k and 10k) a year to help with my business because they don't pay certain taxes until they are 18. I pay my wife as my office secretary and finally my income is just a bit above the AMT.My last W2 role was about 42/hr and I was taxed at 25% (15k approx paid)My current 1099 role is 90/hr but I'm taxed at about 15% (18k taxes approx)Extremely Expensive "Benefits"The W2 always claim "benefits" but in reality it's just a huge chunk of money you are giving to people that don't work or for programs I didn't vote for, through stupid taxes (AKA organized systematic thievery by a corrupt and wasteful govt who sees us as tax cows to milk and herd .... uh off my soapbox now, sorry).I'm lucky that I don't need group healthcare, but even then private healthcare is cheaper than taking an automatic 10% cut in pay rate and then another 20% additional tax rate. (1099 can sometimes pay as low as 10%-15% total taxes if they are structured right). The W2 benefits are usually things I don't want or won't use anyway, or that I can purchase cheaper. Many of the W2 benefits don't kick in for a certain time anyway. And by the time they kick in, they are hiring new people at 10% more than they hired you.Accurate to ScaleAs for the flate rate though, I find they are accurate to scale. Examples:Technician/Jr < Sr < Architect, < Sr Architect < DirectorSpecialist < Technician < Administrator < EngineerTitle = Base PayI've found that titles are quite reliable to scale when I build my "positions" that I seek. "Sr Network Security Engineer" seems to get me 30% more for doing nearly the same work as Network Administrator and almost twice as much for System Administrator.You can do the same experiment by putting the same resume up with different titles and log what types of offers you get. I currently get about 50 offers a day (that don't all match my skillset), so it's easy to ask rates and find this data.Ask and ReceiveMy first corporate job taught me that raises never happen, or if they do they are laughable. I worked 60 hours a week and wrote 900 articles for their database on my own time. I got a 3% raise which was "big" according to my manager. Bull shit. Now when interviews/rates come up I always ask for 5% to 10% more, or some other concession. I always get it too. Each job I change has been a 20-40% raise every 1 to 2 years.Going rate for almost all skilled tech jobs is going to be somewhere between 45/hr on the very low w2 side to 150/hr+ on the very high 1099 side.CertificationsI want to say that I have 20+ IT related certifications and a related Bachelors Degree and a nice resume full of experience that leaves no doubt I can do whatever job I apply for. I also interview pretty well in my opinion (a skill just as important as being good at your job), and these might factors. I of course think I do a good job too, which means new work is easy to find when old contracts/projects are over.Project/Contract BasedI also work as a contractor which means I am more likely to be cut than a w2 worker (the current company fired 50+ W2 with no warning and cut half their contractors, but kept me for some reason). This is a higher stress of course, but I accept it because I'd rather have high pay. Also, EACH project contract I get the going rate at the time I'm hired, which is almost always much higher than a raise. So when the normal person gets hired on they get hired at the lowest possible rate and are pinned there for as long as possible.Contractors leave after each project and get the highest market rate at EACH job they go to. This might be another factor in why it seems those sites are low to me.A New LevelI posted anonymous because I usually work 2 or 3 projects simultaneously at once as well. Yes, this makes for very long days, but my house is paid off, I have no debt and a pile of cash. I don't say this to brag (also why I'm anon), but to let you know that YOU can do anything you dream of, and accepting or not accepting the rates listed is going to be a choice based on many factors.Once you figure them out though, nothing wrong with finding ways to continually tweak them to the highest degree you are capable of. Don't accept status quo.Hope this helps you.