Off Rebate Diy Weatherization: Fill & Download for Free

Are solar panels worth the cost for homes?Check back regularly, as I update this answer frequently with links and tipsI’d say absolutely (although there could be cases where it wouldn’t make sense). Read on!Helpful Web LinksI am placing the web links up front, so people don’t need to scroll down, however, I encourage you to read the other sections as well.Google Project Sunroof - Shows what part of your roof is good for solarPVWatts Calculator - National Renewable Energy Laboratories (NREL) solar panel energy calculator for panels on roofs.Optimum Tilt of Solar PanelsLoan CalculatorGoogle MapsGoogle Project Sunroof - see roof potential for solarDatabase of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency® - DSIRESolar Tax Credit ExplainedFederal Residential Energy Credits | Internal Revenue ServiceThe Real Cost of Leasing vs. Buying Solar PanelsCan I Install Home Solar Panels with an HOA in 2019? | EnergySageEnphase white paper on sizing microinverters - This shows that even if the sun’s power is limited by a microinverter, the amount of power lost while above the microinverter’s maximum is not a large amount. This is because most of the time during the year it is below that. E.g. a 250 watt maximum microinverter can be used with 300 watt maximum PV panels.Types of Solar Panels (2019)”Feed-In Tariff " vs SRECsRemove Snow From Solar Panels with foam snow rakeDo I Need Critter Guards For My Solar Panel System? | EnergySage.SolaTrim and SnapNrack are two companies that make aftermarket critter guards.Sunpower module degradation rate white paperCan Solar Panels Withstand Hail and Hurricanes? | EnergySageAssuring Solar Modules Will Last for DecadesHail No! National Lab's Solar Panels Survive Severe StormEnergy payback time (EPBT) and energy return on energy invested (EROI) of solar photovoltaic systems: A systematic review and meta-analysisAnother article stating EPBT as 6 months2019 Environmental Impact of Solar EnergyCan Solar Panels be Recycled?Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) - Used to get the most energy out of a solar panel. Description of MPPT descriptionTypical DC-DC conversion (as used in Power Optimizers) is 95%. See Source Resistance: The Efficiency Killer in DC-DC Converter CircuitsFor DC-AC inverters (as used in microinverters), typically good ones are in the 95% area as well. See Efficiency of InvertersLevelized Cost of Energy (LCOE) - Cost of electricity by sourceEffects_of_solar_photovoltaic_panels_on_roof_heat_transfer5 Helpful Tips to Sizing and Selecting Solar Thermal EquipmentWhich is Better: Solar Thermal Flat Plate or Evacuated Tube Collectors?US Solar Panel manufacturers:Auxin Solar - San Jose, CAFirst Solar - Perrysberg, OHGlobal Solar Energy - Tucson, AZHeliene - Mountain Iron, MNItek Energy - Bellingham, WAMission Solar - San Antonio, TXSeraphim - Jackson, MSSolaria - Fremont, CASolarTech Universal - Riviera Beach, FLSolarWorld - Hillsboro, ORSuniva - Norcross, GASunPower - San Jose, CASunSpark - Riverside, CATesla (Panasonic) - Buffalo, NYThe DetailsMy Solar Panel Installation BenefitNow, I care about the environment, but like most people putting solar panels on, I am not part of the top 1% (or 2% or 3%…). First and foremost, I needed to make sure it made economic sense for me.I considered the installation of my solar panels (Fall 2016) with an analysis of the payback to me (EROI). I am located in the Boston, Massachusetts area. Massachusetts has net metering (for my utility anyway), loan support, SRECS ($250+ per megawatt hours generated for 10 years), and federal credits of %30 at that time. Some of these credits may disappear in the future, so you may not have those benefits. On the other hand, solar installation prices are dropping. For my case;With no credits of any type (and assuming electric prices don’t go up), it was a 24 year payback (lifetime of the panels is guaranteed for 25 years and estimated lifetime is 50 years). Not great for me, but with the side benefit of helping the environment.With immediate credits, payback was 5.5 yearsWith all current and future (period of 10 years for SRECs) credits figured in, my payback was 1.86 years.Each year after the payback point saves me $2500 per year (plus any amount the electric costs go up) and an additional $500 for 7200 electric miles of my hybrid car. And it improves my portion of reducing global warming significantly. The solar panels may also increase the value of your home when you sell it, but that number is harder to quantify.If I had financed the entire solar panel installation with my home mortgage, the additional cost would have easily been covered by the average solar savings each month ($200+ per month). This shows that anyone can potentially afford solar panels.My selection of panels was Sunpower, as I had limited usable roof space and I wanted to have my entire electric usage yearly covered by the solar panels. The Sunpower panels have little long-term degradation, meaning 50 years from now, they will still crank out the energy. The lifetime watts made them cheaper than the low-cost panels. I also used microinverters, so there would be no single point of failure.For those accounting types, my Internal Rate of Return (IRR) was 15.75%, or if you remove all the credits etc, my IRR was 1.5%. At 15.75% IRR, you’d be crazy not to add solar!This link includes the factors you need to account for in your calculating solar value.Are solar panels worth it in the long term?Solar Thermal PanelsSolar Thermal Panels use solar energy to heat water for your home’s hot water, pool heating or even home heating. They are very efficient (much more than Solar PV) in collecting solar energy, even in the cold of winter.Depending upon your roof space, you may want to consider using some space for at least some of your home’s hot water (typically 2 to 4 panels). They may require more, long term maintenance, but may be a great cost savings for your home. If you are changing your hot water tank, consider a SuperStor Pro Indirect Water Heater or SuperStor Solar SB Indirect water heater water tank or similar. It allows two ways to heat your water, one of them being the solar thermal system. That way you’ll be ready to add solar hot water. (Put the primary heat source, normally the solar, on the bottom input and output of the water tank. Use the secondary heat source on the top).The rest of this answer will be referring to Solar PV, although some may also apply to Solar thermal. For some details on Solar Thermal panels, see these articles5 Helpful Tips to Sizing and Selecting Solar Thermal EquipmentWhich is Better: Solar Thermal Flat Plate or Evacuated Tube Collectors?Geothermal heating/coolingInstead of heating the water to heat the house with Solar Thermal panels, you can use geothermal heating and cooling. This acts like a heat pump, with the the heat energy being exchanged between your home and underground. The underground acts as a storage mechanism, storing heat there in the summer, and extracting heat in the winter. This works well in environments that winter is cold and summers are hotter. Since these require electricity to run the pumps and fans, you might want to have some Solar PV to power this as well. Price of Geothermal is not cheap, but may make sense, particularly if it is installed with a new home.Wind energy not currently practicalUnless you have a large ranch or farm, wind energy is not practical for most residential homes. Most generate a bit of annoying sounds when running, and can cause flashing shadows during certain times of the day or times of the year.Cost versus other sources of electricitySolar PV can be very cost effective, particularly for homes, where the alternatives are not viable unless you have a large ranch with many acres of space and not near any other homes. It is compared as the Levelized Cost of Energy (LCOE). As you can see, Solar Thermal is best, but for residential locations Solar PV is not bad.Cost of electricity by source - WikipediaNot enough sun?I live in Boston, Massachusetts, and the weather is not particularly the best. But every case is different, and you need to do your research and calculate your costs and benefits. However, there is no location on earth that solar can not potentially work for.Winter does not produce the most power, but it’s not necessarily the worst time to generate solar. Solar panels work better in the cold, although not if covered with snow. And there are less sunny hours in the day. For the months of October through March, I generated 3,881 Kwh. From April through September, I generated 9,520 Kwh. So 28% of my electricity was generated in the winter months. Your case, however, may be different.LeasingIf you are thinking about leasing, and expect to sell your home prior to purchasing the panels, think carefully, and read your lease carefully. Leases can make it difficult to sell your home or transfer the lease to the new buyer. Also, Homeowner’s insurance may not cover leased panels too. SeeThe Real Cost of Leasing vs. Buying Solar PanelsUS Panels ARE (or can be) cheaperMy panels, which are purchased, are made in the US (Sunpower). I chose them because even though more expensive initially, they produce more power and degrade less making lifetime cost per watt to be less than the cheaper overseas panels. So my US panels were really cheaper than overseas panels when I installed them. It just had a higher initial cost. Also I had limited roof area, so using the more efficient panels (21% conversion efficiency, 345 watts) allowed me to reach my yearly needs.In my installation analysis, I considered the cost of money. Money earns interest. Money I borrow costs interest. Different types of solar panels degrade in power each year at different rates. Solar panel lifetimes can vary. Price of electricity over time changes (normally rises). Tax credits, rebates and energy cost savings all have to be figured in. Then there is the hard-to-measure saving from summer cooling (Solar Panels on roof shield a house from the sun’s heat saving cooling in the summer vs the winter’s heat savings which are smaller).As an engineer, this is relatively easy for me (compared to most people), but the final numbers saved me money, employed many people, and saved a piece of the world.EPBT and EROI (Pay Back Points)The ecological impact, is referred to as Energy Pay Back Time (EPBT), in other words, the energy use to get materials, manufacturing and disposal costs at end-of-life. Many solar companies use solar power to provide the energy to make the panels, so this, along with suppliers could be as small as zero years once the other processes are electrified as well (and this is possible).The cost savings for you is referred to as Energy Return on Investment (EROI)The article below says EPBT varied from 1.0 to 4.1 years depending on Solar panel type. Also it says EROI varied from 8.7 to 34.2 years (as opposed to my range I’ve stated as 0 to 25 years depending upon the specifics of the case)Energy payback time (EPBT) and energy return on energy invested (EROI) of solar photovoltaic systems: A systematic review and meta-analysisAnother article stating EPBT as 6 months2019 Environmental Impact of Solar EnergyDo-It-Yourself (DIY) InstallationWhile I think there are many people who could do their own installation, and potentially do it better than professional installation, it is probably a bad idea. The reasons why include;You may not know all the local and state building codes required for proper installationThe cost for the panels and parts may be more expensive to purchase than a solar company’s cost.Your home insurance company may not cover all or part of the installation, and you may have a higher liability.Selling the home may require an inspection or buyer sign-off to the liability, so it may actually lose the sale.It may be prohibited by your local or state regulationsMicroinverters vs Central (String) Inverters vs Power OptimizersMicroinverters, Central (String) Inverters and Power Optimizers all convert DC solar panel power to AC. However, I recommend microinverters (or AC panels which are just panels with microinverters built on to them).MicroInverters (Enphase is main provider) have the advantage of working even when individual panels are shaded or failed. These are the easiest for the homeowner (but worst for the solar company) to maintain. If the solar company goes out of business and a panel or microinverter goes bad, the rest of the array will still be working. This means you do not have a Single Point of Failure (SPOF) of any part like central inverters.It is OK to use a slightly more powerful panel than your microinverter, as the time the panels are producing more power than the microinverter can output is relatively small and you don’t lose that many watts. According to the Enphase white paper, 300 Watt panels are typically OK with the 250 watt microinverter.Also, microinverters normally report the data of each panel, so you can identify problems with the panels or microinverters.Central (String) Inverters will lose power of a string of panels if one of them is shaded or failed, but are easier for solar company to maintain. However, the data reported is based upon each string, so you can not detect small problems with an individual panel, only if the whole string fails.Power optimizers (SolarEdge is the main provider) on each panel convert all panels to the same DC Voltage (unless no power due to shading), and have the advantage of a little bit better power conversion over microinverters, but still have to use a central (string) inverter to convert that DC to AC voltage, and that can fail as a standard central inverter. Power optimizers also report the data of each panel like microinverters.Solar Panel TypesThere are 3 basic types of solar panels available that are found in most installations.Monocrystalline Solar Panels (Mono-SI) - Most efficient (~20%) per panel area, good for roofs where there is not much space for panels. Most expensive type, but they degrade less over the lifetime, meaning they can generate more lifetime watts and effectively be cheaper for lifetime watts than the Polycrystalline type below.Polycrystalline Solar Panels (p-Si) - About 15% efficient, so more roof space is required for the same power. However they are cheaper per watt in the short-term. They are sensitive to high temperatures, generating less energy when hotter, and they degrade more per year than the Monocrystalline.Thin-Film: Amorphous Silicon Solar Panels (A-SI) - These have an efficiency of about 10% at best currently, but are low cost. There lifetimes are also much shorter. Advances in technologies may make these more practical though.Roofing Solar TilesThere are some companies, like Telsa, that have tried creating roofing tiles that are also solar panels. The problem is that solar cells currently are sensitive to heat. The higher the temperature of the cells, the less energy they produce. Roofing tiles don’t have a cooling method, where as typical solar panels have a gap between the roof and the panels, allowing the airflow behind the panels to aid in the cooling of the panels. Also, the additional heat of roofing tiles may increase the possibility of a roof fire.Of course new methods or technology may address some of these issues, so if you are thinking about this, check it out thoroughly.Lifetime of SolarSolar Panels, microinverters and power optimizers are typically warranted for 25 years. Central (string) inverters, initially cheaper, have a typical 10 year warranty (consider an insurance policy for them). Lifetime of solar panels are more on the order 40 years or more.As for solar panel degradation, seeSunpower module degradation rate white paper which shows the following figure;Dealing with Bad Solar Sales PeopleA solar installation company can do a free quote, but consider it a ballpark number only. It’s best to use that and calculate your own numbers if you can.Sadly, all the solar installation companies that I checked out (it was over 9), have terrible salespeople. Not one of them could really figure out my true costs and paybacks, nor understood the advantages and disadvantages of various panel types and systems they sold. This means you have to stick to your own research (currently, I hope this changes). And then get multiple quotes. Also read reviews like Yelp on the company.Roof InformationMake sure your roof is relatively new. If you need to replace your roof after the Solar Panels are installed, there will be a lot of expense to remove and reinstall the panels. So if the roof is old, change it before the solar panel installation. Also, I highly suggest using a full, quality, water and ice shield under the tiles for the entire roof, not just the at the edges of the roof. This will minimize any possibilities of leaking during installation and in the far future. For me, it was an additional $400 for a Grace Water and Ice Shield.Measuring your roofUsing a smart phone app, you can measure the tilt of a roof section fairly accurately. If you don’t want to get up on the roof, then walk away from the house on the ground and tilt your phone to lie in the same plane as the roof. Just look at the edge of the phone with one eye and line it up as if the roof section was extended down to the ground where you are, and read the tilt value.The physical dimensions of the roof section either need to be measured on the roof, or measure it from the ground. With the tilt and basic ground dimensions, you can calculate the size of that roof section using math or a CAD program.After that, get the dimensions of the solar panel you are interested in. Then, adding 1 inch between panels, determine a layout of either horizontal or vertical panels that fits best. Stay about a foot away from any roof edge or ridge, or whatever your local regulations require.Ground Mounted Solar PanelsIf your roof won’t work in your situation, you can have the panels mounted on a structure off the ground. One advantage is you can position them in the correct orientation and angle for your location. Some people even have them manually tilt-able for the different seasons which can increase the power. But if you use any motors to move them automatically, you may have to deal with maintenance issues.Being lower to the ground, they may be shaded by trees and other structures, as well as shading the ground underneath, so that may be an issue. If you need multiple rows, they need to be spaced enough that the shadow of one does not fall on the next. However, if you can use the area underneath for storage, that might be ideal.Also, the rack that holds the ground mounted panels adds additional cost for the rack supports and the concrete pole supports that have to be poured. The concrete emits CO2 and increases the time for ecological payback.Grid-Tied vs BatteriesUnless you can’t be connected to the utility grid, the best solution is to be grid-tied. Being connected to the electric companies means you don’t need batteries, and have power night and day (but not when the grid goes down). If the utility charges more for using their power than you feeding your excess power to the grid, it sometimes makes sense to change your habits to use more power during the day, or to use enough batteries to cover your usage overnight or short periods of cloudy weather.Batteries are currently very expensive and only can provide power for a finite period. If it is cloudy for a number of days, your batteries may be exhausted before you get sun power again. But, if you can’t get electrical power where you are, this is often the best solution.Another alternative as backup is a generator. This can be gasoline or LPG or natural gas driven. If you have a manual or automatic power transfer switch, it can be relatively easy to switch between the backup and main power. And the price of a generator is much, much less than a battery solution.Maintenance on Solar Electric SystemsMaintenance is almost nothing on solar panels.In dusty areas, or if you have a lot of pollen, cleaning them with a hose occasionally can help, sometimes with soap. Don’t clean them in the heat of the day, but when they are relatively cool, either the morning or evening. Some panels have coatings on the glass that should not be scrubbed off. On these, only a soft cloth with mild pressure should be used on a spot that residue doesn’t come off. However, most times, a rain shower will clean most of it off.Lots of bird droppings on the panels can also reduce the output of the panels and should be cleaned if this is the case.In snow areas, the snow will slide off on it’s own once part of the panels gets exposed, unless very, very cold. Using a roof rake with a foam scraper to pull the snow off can help clear the panels a bit quicker, but in the winter you are not generating a lot of power, so it doesn’t affect your yearly power generation much. However, if you are off-grid with batteries, this might be more important to do.Remove Snow From Solar Panels with foam snow rakeAlso, when the snow starts melting, or there is a wet snow, the snow can avalanche off the roof quickly. You can have installed metal pieces that retards the snow, but then it takes longer to get the snow off the roof. I use them only around my door exits where the risk is higher.Optional maintenanceIf you have micro-inverters or power optimizers, or can monitor each panels output over time, then it can be helpful to watch the power output of the panels. Monitoring their outputs on a cloudless day, when the panels are not shadowed, compare the outputs of adjacent panels. If any panel is significantly lower in output (by at least 10%) than an adjacent panel in the same orientation and tilt, then you may have a problem with the panel or the micro-inverter or power optimizer, and need replacement. Do not call your solar installer for a couple of watts. It’s these kind of calls that annoy them to the point that they disable individual panel monitoring.It’s also useful to look at your solar production over the course of a year, so you have an idea of what each month typically produces, and can recognize if things like central inverters are failing.Critter GuardsFor roof mount systems, squirrels and other animals may chew on some of the wires if not protected. And some may make a nest in the gap between your roof and the panels. The nests could cause a potential (although unlikely) fire. Using a critter guard (like metal mesh) around the edges can protect them from these issues.Using a critter guard (essentially 1/4″ square metal mesh) will allow air flow to keep your panels cool and keep out animals. It will also eliminate collection of leaves and tree debris under the panel that could be a fire hazard (though seldom is). SolaTrim and SnapNrack are two companies that make aftermarket critter guards.Insurance for the Solar PanelsYour home insurance company may not cover your solar panels. It is best to check with them and to cover their value.DIY installations may not be covered for all or part of the installation, and you may have a higher liability. Check with your insurance company if they would require an inspection.Do Solar Panels increase home resale value?Unfortunately the data on this is not well researched and may be area specific. The local real estate market and possibly state regulations may affect this. The main things is some people either feel they are ugly and won’t pay extra for them when purchasing a home, or, some people like having them because it saves or eliminates electric costs. In some states, it is required to have them if the home is conducive to them, and possibly when a home is sold, and the state may require adding them.Speak with local real estate brokers to see their opinions on them. While the desirability of solar panels may increase over time, the current value may not be there, and hopefully, the brokers will know. In my area, they increase the value of the home about $3 per watt it generates. Since the installed cost is about that, if you depreciate the power degradation of the panels over time, you still get most of your initial cost back.Other SavingsWhile hard to quantify, there is a savings in air conditioning costs in the summer due to the insulation properties of the solar panels to the roof. And there is almost no additional costs to heating in the winter, providing a net gain. To read one article see here;Effects_of_solar_photovoltaic_panels_on_roof_heat_transferReasons people have for getting SolarSave money on electric billsCharge up their electric car or hybrid for freeClears the roof of snow load on it in the winterGives some insulation of the roof for the homeWith batteries or backup generator, can operate off gridCan extend lifetime of roofReduces ecological debt, which the break even point in less than 3 yearsReasons people have against SolarThey are ugly - Can’t argue on this point, except that we know that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. If the house is oriented in the correct way, they can be made invisible from the street.The home owners associations do not allow solar panels and/or getting permission is impossible - This shouldn’t be and in some places is illegal to put these restrictions. Solar panels and Satellite dishes often fall under similar rules. But HOA’s are designed to allow control to the community and skirt some laws that might allow them otherwise. See Can I Install Home Solar Panels with an HOA in 2019? | EnergySageThe large up front investment is difficult to finance unless it is part of the initial construction of the house. - some states support solar with supported loans. In most cases, the payback in electrical savings will pay more than the monthly financing cost of a loan for the solar itself.The average break-even time is longer than the average house ownership time. - That is true in many cases, but payback can be anywhere from 0 to 25 years, all depending upon federal and state credits, rebates, SREC credits, electric rates, and if you have a hybrid or electric car. So YMMV. But if you get at least all your money back when the house is sold, it has the side benefit of helping the environment.The original owner rarely gets back his investment - My payback was less than 2 years but without any credits, rebates etc, would have maxed at 24 years. If you can get back at least your depreciated solar installation cost (total cost less what you have saved) when you sell your home, then at a minimum, you have been green for that period.A solar installation does not make it easier to sell your house - that may be true in some places, but not in most IMHO. Unfortunately the data on this is not well researched and may be area specific. You can always check with a realtor or two for opinions.I don’t want to be stuck with operating a system I don’t understand and am afraid that it will be expensive to fix if they do something wrong - Totally agree, which is why microinverters are better, because they don’t have a single-point of failure and will keep operating in a reduced output without any repair at all. And there is nothing you really need to do except occasionally cleaning off dirt or dust with a hose in areas that experience that.I have to work out with my utility company to accept the power I generate - In most places you are grid-tied and that is all normally done by the utility company. It is not a big deal.If a storm ruins them, it is a horrible mess trying to collect insurance and repair the panels - I’ve never heard of this, but heck, insurance companies love to invent reasons not to pay off. But, if covered, they should pay for it (however, don’t lease panels).The panels are a bit vulnerable - If installed by competent people, this should never be an issue. They have been tested to withstand large hail and wind conditions, and rarely have a failure from those.I live in <fill in your location> and I don’t get enough Sun <fill in time period> - I live in Boston, with lots of cloudy days, and that has not been an issue. It mostly depends on the orientation of your home. Performing a site survey will ascertain what the yearly production will be. The most important is to figure out if it’s right for you. Also, in winter, my panels are covered at times by snow. They normally clear after a few days in most cases.Go to PVWatts Calculator and calculate the power you will generate with specific panels you are thinking about. Calculate the numbers for each roof surface you would use and add the separate values together. Measure the angle of your roof using a phone app that measures the tilt angle of your phone. If you can’t get on the roof, just line up the phone with the plane of the roof from the ground.

Doing research before walking into the dealership is the easiest and best way to avoid paying more, if that’s what you meant by getting ripped off.Doing thorough research would help you understand and come up with your own analysis as to what you should be paying for a car, rather than hear-says or stuff like my distant uncle paid $2k less than you or has a $50 less monthly payment. Compare models, packages, options and leasing rates from multiple sources. You can lookup the invoice pricing and best leasing rates for specific models by googling, then check you area’s pricing and put number as per your perspective. Then you’re ready for the dealership.It’s important to know you limits, sometimes a monthly payment of $50 more means annual budget goes up by 2k, by additonal cost of service, gas, insurance etc.Here’s my leasing checklistExact model and its probable substitutesDo all the possible test-drives you can before finalizing a vehicle, its always good to have options.Usage - Mileage, driving conditions (weather, off-road, racing etc)Carefully estimate your usage and conditions, extra mileage costs (10–50 cents per mile) and lowers the residual value. Rock chips, body dents, paint jobs all are payable expenses at return if not covered by protection package.Maintenance requirements - Included, prepaid, pay as you go or DIYCheck service requirements, most of the leases would recommend having a service record ideally through dealerships, at times prepaid maintenance is good and some economical brands allow Do-it-yourself or anywhere.Price range and monthly paymentsAlways negotiate the bigger number(msrp), compare overall cost of ownership (by cash, finance or lease), try to include all rebates as part of lease. Know your usage limits and use them to work out the final monthly numbers at last.Rates and down-paymentsPrefer 0 downs to enjoy full-fledged benefits, only do down payments or security deposits if it lowers the rate. Sometimes you need to proactively find out ways to reduce rates (offers, rate comaprisons or deposits)Feature checklists - Must-haves, Nice-to-haves, Only if its free, doesn’t matterNot all options are useful, choose wisely. Heated seat and steering are of no use in California even if you drive via Donner pass twice a year!Availability - In stock, commonly available, made to orderVehicles on the lot or in-stock are always going to get you a deal, prefer those ones, the older the inventory the better deal you would getEnd of lease coverage - how much and what’s includedAlways good to have it, especially if you’re not sure of usage or live in harsh terrains, few extra dollars per month works pretty well at the end of lease.Nothing anyone suggests would help without your own research as car buying (leasing) is still a very individualistic process, between you and the sales person. The checklist doesn’t help in getting the best deal, but saves you from getting ripped off!Hope it helps!