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Is there an amount of time after new home owners buy a house with an FHA loan that they are supposed to live in the house before selling it?When you closed on your FHA loan you agreed to a set of owner occupancy rules. One of these rules is that you have to maintain it as your primary residence for at least 12 months from the date of close. This requirement is set to prevent people from leveraging FHA loans to acquire investment properties or conduct flips.Your lender can check up on this and if they find an anomaly can dig deeper. (See Story Time where I unintentionally triggered such an investigation because I used a mailing address)HUD can and does check up on this.Violation of the terms can lead to serious consequences such as:Barring future availability to use FHA financingImmediately calling the loan dueYour lender can file a Suspicious Activity Report (SAR) with federal government's Financial Crimes Enforcement Network (FinCEN), a centralized database that financial institutions use to report possible instances of fraud to law enforcement authorities. This may end up making it difficult to get any mortgage in the future and ultimately be referred to law enforcement which could lead to the next bullet.Criminal charges for mortgage fraud - Federal crime with prison terms and hefty finesIn reality, if you’re still paying the mortgage in a timely manner the lender is highly unlikely to check up on your occupancy compliance, but HUD randomly audits the FHA loans.Story Time: (warning, it’s lengthy)In 2010 we built a house and since the price was $600k and I don’t like to put down more than 20%, that meant I had to go with a jumbo loan (yuck, high rates for no good reason) or get a maxed-out conforming loan (limited to $417k) plus a $83k 2nd mortgage. I opted on the conforming + 2nd mortgage as the rate on both was less than the rate on the jumbo. On the 2nd I opted on a Home Equity Line of Credit (HELOC) as I was offered a prime -1% loan fixed for 5 years, which made it a lower rate than the primary mortgage! Heck, I always like borrowing cheap money.When I closed, I made sure all of the paperwork showed my business lockbox address as my mailing address. Just as a matter of business, since I have rentals, I don’t list my home address on anything. You never know when some flake will decide to look you up at home if you deny them a rental or have a dispute with a tenant. It’s just a precaution. The bank that bought my primary mortgage complied and never sent a single scrap of mail to the new house. To this point, since it was new build, I literally didn’t have a mailbox. I had no intention of going to the post office to get one assigned and never have. The only thing I was ever going to get there was junk mail, so I figured we’ll just cut out the middleman and not have a receivable address.I had received all the docs at the lockbox from my primary mortgage, but never received anything for the HELOC. I knew that the 1st payments were due about 45 days after the closing and that was only a few days away. I called my mortgage broker to see what was up and they said that the loan had gone through and they had no explanation why I hadn’t received anything. They provided their customer service number and I called them to see what was up.Well the bank holding the HELOC swore up and down that they had mailed me a welcome package and checks a week after closing. They confirmed that payment was due in just a couple days. I got the account number and registered my account online so I could get the details and a copy of the current statement. Ah, well there was the problem, they were mailing to my property address. I called customer service back and asked them to change my address and reissue the checks as I couldn’t receive any mail at the property address.They refused. They didn’t care that I listed a mailing address and stated that even though they requested the mailing address, they would only send it to my property address. I told them that they could send it via UPS or FedEx, but USPS couldn't deliver there. Nope, they would only send via USPS. I escalated and ended up talking to a VP of customer service and explained in no uncertain terms that I didn’t have a mailbox at the property address and literally could not receive mail. This is when the lies started. The VP stated that in the terms of their loans, any owner occupied property must have all documentation, statements, checks, etc mailed to the property address, no exceptions. I asked him to point out in the security agreement or application where I agreed to those terms. He couldn’t as they didn’t exist.Now that we had established that the bank was ok with just making stuff up, I shifted my approach. I called the VP out as a liar and told him to change the address or not, it didn’t matter as I had the online access and would be paying off the loan before the 5 year rate lock was up. I ended the call and thought that was the end of it.That’s when the trouble started. About 3 weeks later I got a call from the bank’s fraud department stating that they had mailed me an owner occupancy verification letter via certified mail and it had been returned as undeliverable, so they were going to send out an agent to do a physical verification of occupancy. With this I would be required to meet the agent at a specific time and he would have to be allowed to inspect the property inside and out. I explained again that my home didn’t have a mailbox and mail could not be delivered to the address and they should use my mailing address as stated in the loan documents. Nothing doing, they didn’t receive the response from the certified letter, they were sending someone out, and would charge me $395 for the convenience. He said the only way out at this point was to have the physical verification done within 30 days or my loan would be called due. I told him that if they wanted to back me into a corner that I would fight my way out.I figured the only way to deal with these people was to do it in person at the branch where I had established checking and savings accounts many years earlier. It didn’t go much better. The local branch manager sympathized, he recognized that I had been a long-term customer and that every one of my accounts showed the mailing address, but he had no control over mortgage products as they were handled in a different division. I asked him if he had ever heard of this type of problem and he hadn’t as many people use mailing addresses for mortgages that differed from the property address. He did try to change my address in the computer, a power he normally had, but my account was locked because it was under fraud investigation and there was nothing he could do.Ok, so my only option now is to terminate the loan. I called up my credit union and set an appointment with a loan officer. I walked in with my original paperwork from the closing and asked the loan officer if he’d like to steal business from the other bank. He did. He matched the rate on a new HELOC with no closing costs. I funded in 2 days and they paid off the HELOC directly.The bank was not impressed. I received a number of calls from them wanting to know why I had paid off the loan in less than 3 months and closed the account. In addition, they threatened an early termination fee as they had lost money on the loan. I explained that I refused to do business with any financial institution that felt it was ok to lie to their customers and then tried to come back and apply punitive actions with fees. That resulted in more callbacks wanting to understand how I thought I was lied to. I again explained that mail could not be delivered to the property address and the refusal to use my provided mailing address was the source of all of the problems.I told them if they wanted any further information they could go get the recordings from my discussion with the VP where he was claiming that I agreed to terms that I didn’t. The person confirmed that there were no such stipulations in my loan agreement. He said that an internal investigation would be opened to review the recordings.Just when I thought it was all over, a few weeks later the community gate guard called me and said that a person from the bank was there demanding entry to inspect my property. I was at work, so I asked to talk to him. He was quite the nasty fellow. He was quite irate that I wasn’t home at the specified time that I had been informed to be there (again via mail that couldn’t be delivered). He refused to listen to my explanation that I no longer had a mortgage with the bank and he should call someone to verify that. He threatened that he’d get in to inspect my house if he had to climb over the fence in the middle of the night and kick my door in to see if I actually lived there. Then the line went dead.A few minutes later the guard called back. The guard was also an off-duty sheriff’s officer and had been listening to the other side of the conversation. He had heard the threat and stepped in. Mr. Nasty was now cooling his heels in the guard shack and some on-duty officers were on the way to deal with him. He assured me that they’d have a long talk with him about private property, criminal trespassing, and making threats.Neither the bank or Mr. Nasty ever called me back, but to this day I continually get mortgage marketing from them at my mailing address. Apparently they can use a mailing address for junk mail, just not for conducting actual business.

No trading experience. A number of people have assumed since they can access markets through a variety of sources, they may a capable trader, this idea is reasonable. What makes this a reality? Capital.I am unaware of your situation so I will make assumptions .Number 1: Always remain patient.Number 2: As a novice, never trade against the overall trend.Number 3: One trade at a time. NO MORE.Number 4: If you lose $40.00 during one trade, stop trading for the day…I know it sounds pre-mature but lets look at my first fund…..as a example:I received 10K USD, general rule, funds are not available for withdraw until the end of the 13 month.Simple math: 200 trading days * $50.00 = $10,000Same idea as you with one exception, my experience related by my family.We surpassed our goal for a number of reasons, primarily, the market was good to people, uptrend makes money for most people.The music video tells the story of a software developer, his startup and eventual success.The novice trader has not dealt with the emotions involved with trading MONEY, this is important to consider and you should start educating yourself with this specific aspect. It is important to understand the process of your emotional state, how do you currently react when you incur money lose? Compound by 100% in trading…the greater the lose, generally, the greater the emotional response. How would you overcome the burden of emotional response and re-focus your efforts based upon your setbacks and overcome.Risk Management: Trading Plan:Ok….the 50K can be broken into 3 lots…16k…this is the amount you work with…Risk on: 30% of 50K equivalent lose 15K. NO WAY.Are you willing to give away 15K to a person walking down the street? My tongue in cheek expression.LOOK….effective risk management suggest gains can be made by limiting your risk per trade to a maximum of 5% monthly…Novice trader….1.25% weekly = - $200.00, 5% monthly =-$800.0030% of 16K = 4800.00 daily equates to 3.3 days of trading20% of 16K = 3200.00 daily equates to 5 days of trading10% of 16K = 1600.00 daily equates to 10 days of trading5% of 16K = 800.00 daily equates to 20 days of trading2.5% of 16K = 400.00 daily equates to 40 days of tradingObjective:1.25% of 16k = 200.00 (Max weekly lose, remember, if you have a bad month…this will limit your loses to 800.00 max monthly)Capital lost in the markets daily, hourly, in milliseconds….beyond comprehension.Answer the following:How does my trade arrive from my residence to the receiver (exchange)? Are intermediaries involved? How does this affect my trade, does latency change? If latency changes, how does this affect my process to determine a entry or exit point?You are aware of your own intent? Have you mapped your intent into a reasonable business plan equipped to address daily, weekly, monthly financial expenditures and objectives?What if your month ends negative? Are you able to cover your expenses? If so, how long? How long can you cover expenses before gains exceed your break even point?What are your objectives? Yes, to make money….Budgets, expenditures….Ok, if you would like to follow this through…First, education is of primary importance…this includes understanding of your computers, network (local), your local telecom and inquire ‘synchronous’ internet speeds (What have you experienced with your current provider, any drop connections, if so, how many times per month and is it during high traffic hours? Most common, if not dropping during high traffic hours then you are obligated to find out ‘Why is the connection being interrupted’?)The traded security:It is required you know the in and out of any security traded, this understanding will come with time but you should start studying price movement alongside common indicators (RSI & MACD). Download free application, a trusted live data source…possibly Bloomberg due to choice of traded instruments. (Many free applications so take heed and choose wisely)Capital: Expenditures:Hardware:Computer system(s), multiple monitors and stands, surge protection bars, internet, exchange, brokerage, data, travel related, electronic wire…(My cost is doubled because of backup computer systems, multiple servers and different internet providers as a fail safe, also, data is delivered by two vendors…if service is down from one…the backup service is able to execute any trades during that period…No worries)We change computer hardware every three years…due to the performance software requirements from hardware.General rule of thumb, always better to have system with high end processor whether Intel or AMD, the CPU minimum benchmark of 10,000, 16 Gbs RAM, mid to high range motherboard, GPUs commercial grade, Nvidia Quadros or NVS; AMD Firepro due to their instruction set in limiting errors, these cards are cost effective and run multiple monitors with ease, if budget is concern low end of stated cards work well but I must state…these are not intended for gaming use) This is different for all traders.(ie: determine which tower box to use based upon it ability to cool by fans only…better for CPU, GPU)My preference: 40 inch smart televisions, 1080 full HD, old tech, cost effective when compared to high end monitor. Larger screen - easier to see since a greater portion of your time will be spent watching charts, price, oscillators, indicators etc.Software:Front-End: software provided by brokers or FCMs.Data: Excel (Novice)Learn: Technical and Fundamental Analysis, Pivot points, Fibonacci.Read: Hedge Funds articles about economics, follow central bank releases, the broker or FCM (Futures Commission Merchants) will provide historical data for research and analysis.You are able to obtain your goals only by way of following your trade plan, educate yourself to rules, regulations and a better understanding of yourself,You will doubt yourself, deny opportunity and take on greater risk by foregoing your trading plan….easy to turn $50.00 lose to $400.00, day in, day out. So, end of day…The facilities I use: LMAX and Interactive BrokersWARNING:There is no guarantee of return upon initial investment. This will be dependent upon what you learn, how you learn and when to apply to market conditions.About ME: I am a second generation trader…I manage a small global portfolio and trade currencies full time from my home.I became involved in futures metal markets as a byproduct of protecting my inventory…Hedging, this expanded as computers granted market access.This will be my 28th year involved with markets. As a full time participant, 16 years…this has been an adventure which is worth sharing.Forward any questions.

Are solar panels worth the cost for homes?Check back regularly, as I update this answer frequently with links and tipsI’d say absolutely (although there could be cases where it wouldn’t make sense). Read on!Helpful Web LinksI am placing the web links up front, so people don’t need to scroll down, however, I encourage you to read the other sections as well.Google Project Sunroof - Shows what part of your roof is good for solarPVWatts Calculator - National Renewable Energy Laboratories (NREL) solar panel energy calculator for panels on roofs.Optimum Tilt of Solar PanelsLoan CalculatorGoogle MapsGoogle Project Sunroof - see roof potential for solarDatabase of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency® - DSIRESolar Tax Credit ExplainedFederal Residential Energy Credits | Internal Revenue ServiceThe Real Cost of Leasing vs. Buying Solar PanelsCan I Install Home Solar Panels with an HOA in 2019? | EnergySageEnphase white paper on sizing microinverters - This shows that even if the sun’s power is limited by a microinverter, the amount of power lost while above the microinverter’s maximum is not a large amount. This is because most of the time during the year it is below that. E.g. a 250 watt maximum microinverter can be used with 300 watt maximum PV panels.Types of Solar Panels (2019)”Feed-In Tariff " vs SRECsRemove Snow From Solar Panels with foam snow rakeDo I Need Critter Guards For My Solar Panel System? | EnergySage.SolaTrim and SnapNrack are two companies that make aftermarket critter guards.Sunpower module degradation rate white paperCan Solar Panels Withstand Hail and Hurricanes? | EnergySageAssuring Solar Modules Will Last for DecadesHail No! National Lab's Solar Panels Survive Severe StormEnergy payback time (EPBT) and energy return on energy invested (EROI) of solar photovoltaic systems: A systematic review and meta-analysisAnother article stating EPBT as 6 months2019 Environmental Impact of Solar EnergyCan Solar Panels be Recycled?Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) - Used to get the most energy out of a solar panel. Description of MPPT descriptionTypical DC-DC conversion (as used in Power Optimizers) is 95%. See Source Resistance: The Efficiency Killer in DC-DC Converter CircuitsFor DC-AC inverters (as used in microinverters), typically good ones are in the 95% area as well. See Efficiency of InvertersLevelized Cost of Energy (LCOE) - Cost of electricity by sourceEffects_of_solar_photovoltaic_panels_on_roof_heat_transfer5 Helpful Tips to Sizing and Selecting Solar Thermal EquipmentWhich is Better: Solar Thermal Flat Plate or Evacuated Tube Collectors?US Solar Panel manufacturers:Auxin Solar - San Jose, CAFirst Solar - Perrysberg, OHGlobal Solar Energy - Tucson, AZHeliene - Mountain Iron, MNItek Energy - Bellingham, WAMission Solar - San Antonio, TXSeraphim - Jackson, MSSolaria - Fremont, CASolarTech Universal - Riviera Beach, FLSolarWorld - Hillsboro, ORSuniva - Norcross, GASunPower - San Jose, CASunSpark - Riverside, CATesla (Panasonic) - Buffalo, NYThe DetailsMy Solar Panel Installation BenefitNow, I care about the environment, but like most people putting solar panels on, I am not part of the top 1% (or 2% or 3%…). First and foremost, I needed to make sure it made economic sense for me.I considered the installation of my solar panels (Fall 2016) with an analysis of the payback to me (EROI). I am located in the Boston, Massachusetts area. Massachusetts has net metering (for my utility anyway), loan support, SRECS ($250+ per megawatt hours generated for 10 years), and federal credits of %30 at that time. Some of these credits may disappear in the future, so you may not have those benefits. On the other hand, solar installation prices are dropping. For my case;With no credits of any type (and assuming electric prices don’t go up), it was a 24 year payback (lifetime of the panels is guaranteed for 25 years and estimated lifetime is 50 years). Not great for me, but with the side benefit of helping the environment.With immediate credits, payback was 5.5 yearsWith all current and future (period of 10 years for SRECs) credits figured in, my payback was 1.86 years.Each year after the payback point saves me $2500 per year (plus any amount the electric costs go up) and an additional $500 for 7200 electric miles of my hybrid car. And it improves my portion of reducing global warming significantly. The solar panels may also increase the value of your home when you sell it, but that number is harder to quantify.If I had financed the entire solar panel installation with my home mortgage, the additional cost would have easily been covered by the average solar savings each month ($200+ per month). This shows that anyone can potentially afford solar panels.My selection of panels was Sunpower, as I had limited usable roof space and I wanted to have my entire electric usage yearly covered by the solar panels. The Sunpower panels have little long-term degradation, meaning 50 years from now, they will still crank out the energy. The lifetime watts made them cheaper than the low-cost panels. I also used microinverters, so there would be no single point of failure.For those accounting types, my Internal Rate of Return (IRR) was 15.75%, or if you remove all the credits etc, my IRR was 1.5%. At 15.75% IRR, you’d be crazy not to add solar!This link includes the factors you need to account for in your calculating solar value.Are solar panels worth it in the long term?Solar Thermal PanelsSolar Thermal Panels use solar energy to heat water for your home’s hot water, pool heating or even home heating. They are very efficient (much more than Solar PV) in collecting solar energy, even in the cold of winter.Depending upon your roof space, you may want to consider using some space for at least some of your home’s hot water (typically 2 to 4 panels). They may require more, long term maintenance, but may be a great cost savings for your home. If you are changing your hot water tank, consider a SuperStor Pro Indirect Water Heater or SuperStor Solar SB Indirect water heater water tank or similar. It allows two ways to heat your water, one of them being the solar thermal system. That way you’ll be ready to add solar hot water. (Put the primary heat source, normally the solar, on the bottom input and output of the water tank. Use the secondary heat source on the top).The rest of this answer will be referring to Solar PV, although some may also apply to Solar thermal. For some details on Solar Thermal panels, see these articles5 Helpful Tips to Sizing and Selecting Solar Thermal EquipmentWhich is Better: Solar Thermal Flat Plate or Evacuated Tube Collectors?Geothermal heating/coolingInstead of heating the water to heat the house with Solar Thermal panels, you can use geothermal heating and cooling. This acts like a heat pump, with the the heat energy being exchanged between your home and underground. The underground acts as a storage mechanism, storing heat there in the summer, and extracting heat in the winter. This works well in environments that winter is cold and summers are hotter. Since these require electricity to run the pumps and fans, you might want to have some Solar PV to power this as well. Price of Geothermal is not cheap, but may make sense, particularly if it is installed with a new home.Wind energy not currently practicalUnless you have a large ranch or farm, wind energy is not practical for most residential homes. Most generate a bit of annoying sounds when running, and can cause flashing shadows during certain times of the day or times of the year.Cost versus other sources of electricitySolar PV can be very cost effective, particularly for homes, where the alternatives are not viable unless you have a large ranch with many acres of space and not near any other homes. It is compared as the Levelized Cost of Energy (LCOE). As you can see, Solar Thermal is best, but for residential locations Solar PV is not bad.Cost of electricity by source - WikipediaNot enough sun?I live in Boston, Massachusetts, and the weather is not particularly the best. But every case is different, and you need to do your research and calculate your costs and benefits. However, there is no location on earth that solar can not potentially work for.Winter does not produce the most power, but it’s not necessarily the worst time to generate solar. Solar panels work better in the cold, although not if covered with snow. And there are less sunny hours in the day. For the months of October through March, I generated 3,881 Kwh. From April through September, I generated 9,520 Kwh. So 28% of my electricity was generated in the winter months. Your case, however, may be different.LeasingIf you are thinking about leasing, and expect to sell your home prior to purchasing the panels, think carefully, and read your lease carefully. Leases can make it difficult to sell your home or transfer the lease to the new buyer. Also, Homeowner’s insurance may not cover leased panels too. SeeThe Real Cost of Leasing vs. Buying Solar PanelsUS Panels ARE (or can be) cheaperMy panels, which are purchased, are made in the US (Sunpower). I chose them because even though more expensive initially, they produce more power and degrade less making lifetime cost per watt to be less than the cheaper overseas panels. So my US panels were really cheaper than overseas panels when I installed them. It just had a higher initial cost. Also I had limited roof area, so using the more efficient panels (21% conversion efficiency, 345 watts) allowed me to reach my yearly needs.In my installation analysis, I considered the cost of money. Money earns interest. Money I borrow costs interest. Different types of solar panels degrade in power each year at different rates. Solar panel lifetimes can vary. Price of electricity over time changes (normally rises). Tax credits, rebates and energy cost savings all have to be figured in. Then there is the hard-to-measure saving from summer cooling (Solar Panels on roof shield a house from the sun’s heat saving cooling in the summer vs the winter’s heat savings which are smaller).As an engineer, this is relatively easy for me (compared to most people), but the final numbers saved me money, employed many people, and saved a piece of the world.EPBT and EROI (Pay Back Points)The ecological impact, is referred to as Energy Pay Back Time (EPBT), in other words, the energy use to get materials, manufacturing and disposal costs at end-of-life. Many solar companies use solar power to provide the energy to make the panels, so this, along with suppliers could be as small as zero years once the other processes are electrified as well (and this is possible).The cost savings for you is referred to as Energy Return on Investment (EROI)The article below says EPBT varied from 1.0 to 4.1 years depending on Solar panel type. Also it says EROI varied from 8.7 to 34.2 years (as opposed to my range I’ve stated as 0 to 25 years depending upon the specifics of the case)Energy payback time (EPBT) and energy return on energy invested (EROI) of solar photovoltaic systems: A systematic review and meta-analysisAnother article stating EPBT as 6 months2019 Environmental Impact of Solar EnergyDo-It-Yourself (DIY) InstallationWhile I think there are many people who could do their own installation, and potentially do it better than professional installation, it is probably a bad idea. The reasons why include;You may not know all the local and state building codes required for proper installationThe cost for the panels and parts may be more expensive to purchase than a solar company’s cost.Your home insurance company may not cover all or part of the installation, and you may have a higher liability.Selling the home may require an inspection or buyer sign-off to the liability, so it may actually lose the sale.It may be prohibited by your local or state regulationsMicroinverters vs Central (String) Inverters vs Power OptimizersMicroinverters, Central (String) Inverters and Power Optimizers all convert DC solar panel power to AC. However, I recommend microinverters (or AC panels which are just panels with microinverters built on to them).MicroInverters (Enphase is main provider) have the advantage of working even when individual panels are shaded or failed. These are the easiest for the homeowner (but worst for the solar company) to maintain. If the solar company goes out of business and a panel or microinverter goes bad, the rest of the array will still be working. This means you do not have a Single Point of Failure (SPOF) of any part like central inverters.It is OK to use a slightly more powerful panel than your microinverter, as the time the panels are producing more power than the microinverter can output is relatively small and you don’t lose that many watts. According to the Enphase white paper, 300 Watt panels are typically OK with the 250 watt microinverter.Also, microinverters normally report the data of each panel, so you can identify problems with the panels or microinverters.Central (String) Inverters will lose power of a string of panels if one of them is shaded or failed, but are easier for solar company to maintain. However, the data reported is based upon each string, so you can not detect small problems with an individual panel, only if the whole string fails.Power optimizers (SolarEdge is the main provider) on each panel convert all panels to the same DC Voltage (unless no power due to shading), and have the advantage of a little bit better power conversion over microinverters, but still have to use a central (string) inverter to convert that DC to AC voltage, and that can fail as a standard central inverter. Power optimizers also report the data of each panel like microinverters.Solar Panel TypesThere are 3 basic types of solar panels available that are found in most installations.Monocrystalline Solar Panels (Mono-SI) - Most efficient (~20%) per panel area, good for roofs where there is not much space for panels. Most expensive type, but they degrade less over the lifetime, meaning they can generate more lifetime watts and effectively be cheaper for lifetime watts than the Polycrystalline type below.Polycrystalline Solar Panels (p-Si) - About 15% efficient, so more roof space is required for the same power. However they are cheaper per watt in the short-term. They are sensitive to high temperatures, generating less energy when hotter, and they degrade more per year than the Monocrystalline.Thin-Film: Amorphous Silicon Solar Panels (A-SI) - These have an efficiency of about 10% at best currently, but are low cost. There lifetimes are also much shorter. Advances in technologies may make these more practical though.Roofing Solar TilesThere are some companies, like Telsa, that have tried creating roofing tiles that are also solar panels. The problem is that solar cells currently are sensitive to heat. The higher the temperature of the cells, the less energy they produce. Roofing tiles don’t have a cooling method, where as typical solar panels have a gap between the roof and the panels, allowing the airflow behind the panels to aid in the cooling of the panels. Also, the additional heat of roofing tiles may increase the possibility of a roof fire.Of course new methods or technology may address some of these issues, so if you are thinking about this, check it out thoroughly.Lifetime of SolarSolar Panels, microinverters and power optimizers are typically warranted for 25 years. Central (string) inverters, initially cheaper, have a typical 10 year warranty (consider an insurance policy for them). Lifetime of solar panels are more on the order 40 years or more.As for solar panel degradation, seeSunpower module degradation rate white paper which shows the following figure;Dealing with Bad Solar Sales PeopleA solar installation company can do a free quote, but consider it a ballpark number only. It’s best to use that and calculate your own numbers if you can.Sadly, all the solar installation companies that I checked out (it was over 9), have terrible salespeople. Not one of them could really figure out my true costs and paybacks, nor understood the advantages and disadvantages of various panel types and systems they sold. This means you have to stick to your own research (currently, I hope this changes). And then get multiple quotes. Also read reviews like Yelp on the company.Roof InformationMake sure your roof is relatively new. If you need to replace your roof after the Solar Panels are installed, there will be a lot of expense to remove and reinstall the panels. So if the roof is old, change it before the solar panel installation. Also, I highly suggest using a full, quality, water and ice shield under the tiles for the entire roof, not just the at the edges of the roof. This will minimize any possibilities of leaking during installation and in the far future. For me, it was an additional $400 for a Grace Water and Ice Shield.Measuring your roofUsing a smart phone app, you can measure the tilt of a roof section fairly accurately. If you don’t want to get up on the roof, then walk away from the house on the ground and tilt your phone to lie in the same plane as the roof. Just look at the edge of the phone with one eye and line it up as if the roof section was extended down to the ground where you are, and read the tilt value.The physical dimensions of the roof section either need to be measured on the roof, or measure it from the ground. With the tilt and basic ground dimensions, you can calculate the size of that roof section using math or a CAD program.After that, get the dimensions of the solar panel you are interested in. Then, adding 1 inch between panels, determine a layout of either horizontal or vertical panels that fits best. Stay about a foot away from any roof edge or ridge, or whatever your local regulations require.Ground Mounted Solar PanelsIf your roof won’t work in your situation, you can have the panels mounted on a structure off the ground. One advantage is you can position them in the correct orientation and angle for your location. Some people even have them manually tilt-able for the different seasons which can increase the power. But if you use any motors to move them automatically, you may have to deal with maintenance issues.Being lower to the ground, they may be shaded by trees and other structures, as well as shading the ground underneath, so that may be an issue. If you need multiple rows, they need to be spaced enough that the shadow of one does not fall on the next. However, if you can use the area underneath for storage, that might be ideal.Also, the rack that holds the ground mounted panels adds additional cost for the rack supports and the concrete pole supports that have to be poured. The concrete emits CO2 and increases the time for ecological payback.Grid-Tied vs BatteriesUnless you can’t be connected to the utility grid, the best solution is to be grid-tied. Being connected to the electric companies means you don’t need batteries, and have power night and day (but not when the grid goes down). If the utility charges more for using their power than you feeding your excess power to the grid, it sometimes makes sense to change your habits to use more power during the day, or to use enough batteries to cover your usage overnight or short periods of cloudy weather.Batteries are currently very expensive and only can provide power for a finite period. If it is cloudy for a number of days, your batteries may be exhausted before you get sun power again. But, if you can’t get electrical power where you are, this is often the best solution.Another alternative as backup is a generator. This can be gasoline or LPG or natural gas driven. If you have a manual or automatic power transfer switch, it can be relatively easy to switch between the backup and main power. And the price of a generator is much, much less than a battery solution.Maintenance on Solar Electric SystemsMaintenance is almost nothing on solar panels.In dusty areas, or if you have a lot of pollen, cleaning them with a hose occasionally can help, sometimes with soap. Don’t clean them in the heat of the day, but when they are relatively cool, either the morning or evening. Some panels have coatings on the glass that should not be scrubbed off. On these, only a soft cloth with mild pressure should be used on a spot that residue doesn’t come off. However, most times, a rain shower will clean most of it off.Lots of bird droppings on the panels can also reduce the output of the panels and should be cleaned if this is the case.In snow areas, the snow will slide off on it’s own once part of the panels gets exposed, unless very, very cold. Using a roof rake with a foam scraper to pull the snow off can help clear the panels a bit quicker, but in the winter you are not generating a lot of power, so it doesn’t affect your yearly power generation much. However, if you are off-grid with batteries, this might be more important to do.Remove Snow From Solar Panels with foam snow rakeAlso, when the snow starts melting, or there is a wet snow, the snow can avalanche off the roof quickly. You can have installed metal pieces that retards the snow, but then it takes longer to get the snow off the roof. I use them only around my door exits where the risk is higher.Optional maintenanceIf you have micro-inverters or power optimizers, or can monitor each panels output over time, then it can be helpful to watch the power output of the panels. Monitoring their outputs on a cloudless day, when the panels are not shadowed, compare the outputs of adjacent panels. If any panel is significantly lower in output (by at least 10%) than an adjacent panel in the same orientation and tilt, then you may have a problem with the panel or the micro-inverter or power optimizer, and need replacement. Do not call your solar installer for a couple of watts. It’s these kind of calls that annoy them to the point that they disable individual panel monitoring.It’s also useful to look at your solar production over the course of a year, so you have an idea of what each month typically produces, and can recognize if things like central inverters are failing.Critter GuardsFor roof mount systems, squirrels and other animals may chew on some of the wires if not protected. And some may make a nest in the gap between your roof and the panels. The nests could cause a potential (although unlikely) fire. Using a critter guard (like metal mesh) around the edges can protect them from these issues.Using a critter guard (essentially 1/4″ square metal mesh) will allow air flow to keep your panels cool and keep out animals. It will also eliminate collection of leaves and tree debris under the panel that could be a fire hazard (though seldom is). SolaTrim and SnapNrack are two companies that make aftermarket critter guards.Insurance for the Solar PanelsYour home insurance company may not cover your solar panels. It is best to check with them and to cover their value.DIY installations may not be covered for all or part of the installation, and you may have a higher liability. Check with your insurance company if they would require an inspection.Do Solar Panels increase home resale value?Unfortunately the data on this is not well researched and may be area specific. The local real estate market and possibly state regulations may affect this. The main things is some people either feel they are ugly and won’t pay extra for them when purchasing a home, or, some people like having them because it saves or eliminates electric costs. In some states, it is required to have them if the home is conducive to them, and possibly when a home is sold, and the state may require adding them.Speak with local real estate brokers to see their opinions on them. While the desirability of solar panels may increase over time, the current value may not be there, and hopefully, the brokers will know. In my area, they increase the value of the home about $3 per watt it generates. Since the installed cost is about that, if you depreciate the power degradation of the panels over time, you still get most of your initial cost back.Other SavingsWhile hard to quantify, there is a savings in air conditioning costs in the summer due to the insulation properties of the solar panels to the roof. And there is almost no additional costs to heating in the winter, providing a net gain. To read one article see here;Effects_of_solar_photovoltaic_panels_on_roof_heat_transferReasons people have for getting SolarSave money on electric billsCharge up their electric car or hybrid for freeClears the roof of snow load on it in the winterGives some insulation of the roof for the homeWith batteries or backup generator, can operate off gridCan extend lifetime of roofReduces ecological debt, which the break even point in less than 3 yearsReasons people have against SolarThey are ugly - Can’t argue on this point, except that we know that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. If the house is oriented in the correct way, they can be made invisible from the street.The home owners associations do not allow solar panels and/or getting permission is impossible - This shouldn’t be and in some places is illegal to put these restrictions. Solar panels and Satellite dishes often fall under similar rules. But HOA’s are designed to allow control to the community and skirt some laws that might allow them otherwise. See Can I Install Home Solar Panels with an HOA in 2019? | EnergySageThe large up front investment is difficult to finance unless it is part of the initial construction of the house. - some states support solar with supported loans. In most cases, the payback in electrical savings will pay more than the monthly financing cost of a loan for the solar itself.The average break-even time is longer than the average house ownership time. - That is true in many cases, but payback can be anywhere from 0 to 25 years, all depending upon federal and state credits, rebates, SREC credits, electric rates, and if you have a hybrid or electric car. So YMMV. But if you get at least all your money back when the house is sold, it has the side benefit of helping the environment.The original owner rarely gets back his investment - My payback was less than 2 years but without any credits, rebates etc, would have maxed at 24 years. If you can get back at least your depreciated solar installation cost (total cost less what you have saved) when you sell your home, then at a minimum, you have been green for that period.A solar installation does not make it easier to sell your house - that may be true in some places, but not in most IMHO. Unfortunately the data on this is not well researched and may be area specific. You can always check with a realtor or two for opinions.I don’t want to be stuck with operating a system I don’t understand and am afraid that it will be expensive to fix if they do something wrong - Totally agree, which is why microinverters are better, because they don’t have a single-point of failure and will keep operating in a reduced output without any repair at all. And there is nothing you really need to do except occasionally cleaning off dirt or dust with a hose in areas that experience that.I have to work out with my utility company to accept the power I generate - In most places you are grid-tied and that is all normally done by the utility company. It is not a big deal.If a storm ruins them, it is a horrible mess trying to collect insurance and repair the panels - I’ve never heard of this, but heck, insurance companies love to invent reasons not to pay off. But, if covered, they should pay for it (however, don’t lease panels).The panels are a bit vulnerable - If installed by competent people, this should never be an issue. They have been tested to withstand large hail and wind conditions, and rarely have a failure from those.I live in <fill in your location> and I don’t get enough Sun <fill in time period> - I live in Boston, with lots of cloudy days, and that has not been an issue. It mostly depends on the orientation of your home. Performing a site survey will ascertain what the yearly production will be. The most important is to figure out if it’s right for you. Also, in winter, my panels are covered at times by snow. They normally clear after a few days in most cases.Go to PVWatts Calculator and calculate the power you will generate with specific panels you are thinking about. Calculate the numbers for each roof surface you would use and add the separate values together. Measure the angle of your roof using a phone app that measures the tilt angle of your phone. If you can’t get on the roof, just line up the phone with the plane of the roof from the ground.