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What kind of conductors are used for a 69-kv circuit in a transmission line and what are the characteristics for these conductors?As Jesse Rhyne has said in his answer, he has seen a lot of different conductors. You must know what power needs to be transmitted to begin to design a transmission line. The voltage by itself is not enough.The power transmitted for any size of conductor depends on its current carrying capacity and can be calculated from the following formula:MW (Mega Watts) equals root 3 multiplied by V (voltage in kilo volts) multiplied by I (current in amps) multiplied by the cosine of the power factor) and divided by 1000MW = √3 x V x I x Cos Ф / 1000If the power factor is not known, (it is usually not known for a new line) then a universal power factor of 0.8 is usually used.You have provided the voltage of 69kV. So:MW = 133.02 x I / 1000 or 0.133 x ILet us say that the line is to transfer 65MW of power. This will be the calculated future peak demand for this line.65 = 0.133 x Itherefore I (per conductor) = 65/0.133= 488.72 AmpsHaving the current required per conductor for our 69kV line, we look up the conductor charts and decide on BEAR ACSR. Aluminium Conductor Steel Reinforced (ACSR) is concentrically stranded conductor with one or more layers of hard drawn 1350-H19 aluminium wire on a galvanized steel wire core. This is BEAR:The conductor cable ampacity table we looked up is:where the BEAR ACSR can carry 506 amps at 65 degrees centigrade. Plenty for what we will need in the future.The physical properties of BEAR ACSR (and other ACSR Conductors) are:To finish the design of the line we would have to make many other decisions, but this was not your question.Without knowing the circuit power requirements, it is usual to use ACRS conductors for transmission lines.I hope this is an adequate answer.Regards

There are some formulas for calculating the theoretical size, but the thing you actually need to comply with is your local electric code, which likely provides a look-up table for wire sizes and ratings — along with numerous other parameters and rules you need to consider when selecting the wire.In most parts of the Unites States, the National Electric Code (NEC) applies, possibly with some local amendments. The NEC’s wire ampacity chart is duplicated in many places across the Internet, such as this site that a search turned up: Wire Current Ampacities NEC Table 310-16.From that table, copper conductors with 90 °C-rated insulation (e.g. type THHN) would require at least a 3/0 AWG conductor size for a 200 amp load. Other factors about the load and wire routing may require this to be derated, meaning that you would actually need to use a larger size of conductor for a safe and compliant installation.

My desalinator produces 6 gallons an hour for 8 amps at 12 volts.In case that doesn’t mean much: it is a device that ‘filters’ the salt out of seawater to turn it into fresh water, by forcing it through a molecular size filter at high pressure, at a rate of 6 gallons an hour (about 8 gallons US I think), running on the boat’s 12 volt battery power, using 8 amps DC to do that work.In US terms it produces a gallon an amp at 12v. It’s a reasonably compact unit (a Spectra Santa Cruz) that could be used in a sailboat from 26 feet and up, though it would be hard to find space for it in a boat that size; in a 37 footer it fits in a locker.The way I use it on passage is to carry enough bottled water to be able to make it to land if necessary, with any tank water as an extra; and live on the watermaker output fed to the tank or jugs. If it’s run for 3 hours you get 18 gallons (24 US gallons or thereabouts I think) at a cost of 24 amp hours. My towed turbine produces 3 or 4 amps all the time we’re moving and so the batteries are always topped up, and 24aH for water every few days is nothing. If becalmed I could run the diesel, and solar does the job anyway.Basically you get so much water for so little power now with such a compact unit that you can run a washing machine to do your clothes if you feel like it. It appears to be reliable as it hasn’t needed any major spares. You need to carry new pre-filter elements and RO membrane cleaning chemicals.It’s not like the old systems that needed diesel power or huge amounts of electrical power, and probably had dozens of fail points. That era has gone.Like any other modern gadget you need to have a backup plan. I carry enough water to get me to land even if it doesn’t rain. Generally that isn’t going to take a lot of water because 1 or 1.5 litres of water a day will do just fine under those circumstances.I also carry a sextant and tables, just in case the (multiple) GPS RX all get fried in an EMP from a lightning hit; or if the satellite system goes down. And backup paper charts.How many people carry that stuff or know how to use it these days? Modern tech makes life phenomenally easy; and as long as you know it can all go up in smoke tomorrow, there is no real downside. The problem comes if you think it will all work perfectly, needs no checking, and will still be working fine tomorrow.It would only take a few things like a direct hit from a lightning strike or the big EMP from it and a wave down through the main hatch and so on to take out my radar, GPS’s, laptops, watermaker and all those widgets. So I don’t rely on them to the extent that if they went up in smoke I’d be dead. They just make life a lot easier.Three six-packs of 2 litre bottles of supermarket water per person will get you to land in most places, and they don’t take up much space. If I’m more than 36 litres of water away from anywhere I’ll just have to drink some tank water too. I figure I won’t be going back to the Southern Ocean, so 36L of spare water plus whatever is in the tank as a bonus should do it for me. Like anyone sensible I have two water tanks as like anything else the water in a tank can go poof! and disappear. One is a smallish emergency backup tank of 70 litres.As we all know, disasters happen because several impossible things all happen at once; at least, that is what I have learned from my sea time.It seems unlikely I’ll lose both tanks at the same time but you never know. Three shrink-wrap 12L packs carefully stowed should do the job, the tanks are extra. A gallon an amp DC is just too good to pass up, it’s like water for nothing. As long as you realise it can all go poof! and vaporise at any time, because that is what can happen in small boats at sea. Some people go out there and are never seen again, so clearly the unlikely and even the impossible does happen.