Full Time Horse Lease Agreement: Fill & Download for Free

Before there were used car salesmen, in fact before there were used cars, there were horse traders. Beware.For the amateur who wants a quiet horse, the tranquil animal you take home today may bust out like gangbusters tomorrow morning when the tranquilizer wears off.Or conversely: At a boarding stable one day a man brought in an open jumping horse and a rider to show him off. The horse sailed over 5–6 foot fences as if he had wings. After some haggling, the stable manager bought this superhorse for a bargain price. Next day the prize jumper came up dead lame. Manager had to admire the way he’d been duped. Of course he’d pull the same trick: shoot the horse’s leg full of Bute (phenylbutazone) so the animal would move normally to fool the next mark.So, first lesson: Don’t buy a horse without knowing who’s selling and what you’re buying.In fact don’t buy a horse.Correct me if I’m wrong but sounds as if you’re thinking to learn about horses by buying a horse. That’s putting the add-to-cart before the horse (sorry). Best thing is to learn about horses for at least a couple of years before you even think of owning one. Get as much experience as you can, it will never be enough. Volunteer at a horse rescue, livery or boarding stable. You’ll be put to work mucking stalls and there’s an art and science to that too.Another reason: Horses are not big dogs. They have not been bred as pets because they’ve traditionally had a job to do. Horses are not overly demonstrative and they don’t cuddle the way dogs, cats, even pigs and pythons do. Horses do signal their intentions pretty clearly but only if you’re experienced at reading their language: Understand Horse Body Language and You’ll Unlock the Equine Communication Code.Third reason: By nature horses are large, improbably strong animals that can lame you in a blink by kicking at a fly or stepping on your foot before you’ve learned how to move around them. Let a horse graze while you’re leading her, she may put a front hoof over the lead shank, then panic when she throws her head up and the shank yanks hard on both the halter and her leg, she hauls back fast, breaks loose and you realize horses don’t come back when called. And a loose horse is a nightmare for everyody involved.Learning to ride is NOT like learning to operate a bike, 4-wheeler or jet ski. For openers you’re twice as high off the ground with no brakes and no seatbelt. Machines only move when you tell them to, but a live animal can move unpredictably, especially when you haven’t yet learned to know what he’s going to do before he does. While riding they can send you flying just by shifting their weight out from under you.As for the danger, the real problem isn’t just that horse riding in all its forms is one of the top 3 most dangerous sports. The really sobering news is that injuries from horses tend to be severe and often life-changing: “Every year horse riding causes deaths and very serious injuries such as long term paralysis from spinal cord damage. Even if the danger is difficult to quantify, it is unarguable that horse riding is potentially dangerous. Moreover, anyone can be unlucky.” Note that last phrase: there are just too many ways for things to go wrong. http://www.medequestrian.co.uk/rider-safety/benefits-and-risks-of-riding/risks-of-injury-risk-management/Fourth reason: The sheer expense. Good grain and hay (learn to recognize them), pasture, shelter, grooming, shoeing, and oral care (floating the teeth) are just the basics. A good boarding stable is recommended for a new owner, and that’s not cheap. And vet bills: for openers that means a large-animals specialist making a house call. You’re not going to trailer the animal over to the vet every time he develops a cough from dusty hay, and if it’s colic you’ll be too busy trying to prevent him from lying down to trailor him anywhere. Which reminds me:Fifth reason (or whatever): Horses have delicate digestive systems. They don’t have extra stomachs like ruminants and they can’t regurgitate like we do. That can mean potentially fatal colic if somebody mows the field and leaves certain weeds to ferment when the horse is turned out. It will be up to you to recognize musty hay, or bales with too much clover or alfalfa when your animal isn’t used to it, and hay doesn’t come baled with handy labels from Chewy dot com. You’ll need to know when to give a bran mash, or when to cut back on the oats when he isn’t working. Oats are like Adderall to horses. “Feelin’ his oats” he can act like he’s full of the devil and fight you at every turn, when it just may be that he’s getting overgrained for the amount of exercise he’s getting. Cut back on the grain and you’ve got an entirely different mount. Oh and there’s the right tack: you don’t want to give your horse saddle sores or punish him with the wrong bit.Good source on all the aspects of HORSE CARE: https://www.horsemart.co.uk/health/horse-health-the-ultimate-guide/1816But if you really want to own a horse someday:Once you have some experience working around horses, grooming and feeding them, etc., there are a couple of options to explore.Sponsor or lease a horse at a livery stable. This is something we used to do years ago, it may be unusual nowadays but it won’t hurt to ask. The horse would available to you to groom and ride when she isn’t needed to hire out.Explore horse sharing. This is a lot like time-sharing a condo. You connect with someone who already has a horse and you help with the care and expenses. Since you are still learning, you may find it advisable to volunteer to take care of the horse 2–4 days a week without expecting to ride yet. You may be find an owner who might be willing to teach you to ride, and for that you’ll want to offer recompense, either in money or time/work. Keep the agreement temporary and time-limited until you both find out if it works, and then put it in writing to protect both of you. Any formal agreement should be vetted by an attorney experienced in share agreements of various types.And then one day . . . it may happen unplanned, you’re working/volunteering at a horse rescue or boarding stable, and one day one of the animals may need saving, or maybe just begins to look like the perfect horse. That can be nearly ideal because you know the horse and the folks at the facility can give you good advice. Better take two horses because they’re herd animals, and if your guy doesn’t have a buddy it can make him nervous and fretful. Or a goat may do, but not a burro, they can be noisy and ornery. Choose your horse’s friend wisely.One last possibility: If you have the facilities (meaning barn, paddock, field, outdoor shed for shelter and plenty of fresh water available) you could offer a home to an older horse who is ready to retire. Again, you’ll want expert advice before you commit, but there are plenty of horse owners who don’t want to send a well-loved animal to the knacker’s. In some cases these could be purebred and show animals past their show-ring prime but suitable for experienced amateurs. Ideally you may connect with an owner looking to retire her favorite riding horse, and you could end up with that equine equivalent of a golden retriever that you’re dreaming of.Yes, it could happen. As I say, to be fair to the horse and yourself, you’ll want to learn all you can of what you’re both in for.Thanks for the A2A.P.S. Not recommended:1. Horse auctions, unless you have an expert with you.2. Purebred animals: You could overpay for an animal that may be too high-strung and overall expensive for your needs. There are plenty of good grade horses out there with the temperament you describe.

Lots! Lots of costs and responsibilities involved in horse ownership!Daily:Friends to hang out with. Either get 2 horses or keep your horse in a pasture with other horses. They're social animals and they don't do well living in isolation.Freedom to move around. Although it's commonly accepted as typical horsekeeping, living in a stall 24/7 is comparable to a dog in a crate or a human in a linen closet. It's cruel, especially when you consider that horses evolved to move 10+ miles per day. A number of acres is ideal, but they should at least be able to step outdoors and trot a few steps and reach across the fence to touch their neighbors — minimum! They also need exercise each day, if they're kept in a small space. I used to keep my horse in a stall, and every. Single. Day. I got him out to exercise. On a longe line, walk in hand, run him loose in an arena, or go for a ride — they need to move in order to be healthy.Fresh, clean water. You can use troughs, buckets, or water on demand systems, but it's vital to keep it clean, ice broken and cleared several times a day in winter, cool in summer, and palatable. Dehydration is a major cause of colic, which can kill a horse.If/when there's no grass available, the bare minimum amount of hay a horse needs is 1.5% of its body weight, even if the horse is overweight. They need this much in order to keep the gut healthy and to prevent the body going into starvation mode. If the horse is underweight, feeding hay free choice is ideal. For the sake of using round numbers, we'll say your horse weighs 1000 pounds and a bale of hay weighs 50 pounds. 15 pounds of hay is the bare minimum, so a bale should last 2-3 days. Around here, you can get decent hay for $8-12 a bale. Your results will definitely vary depending on your location.Grain, if the horse needs extra calories. Many horses don't need grain, but it doesn't hurt to use a hay/forage balancer to provide the nutrients missing in the forage. If one horse in the barn or pasture gets grain, the others should get something extra at the same time. I had two very easy keepers who definitely didn't need grain, but the others got it. I gave mine a quart container of hay pellets when I grained the others, so they wouldn't feel left out and and suffer from ulcers due to hearing the others eat, and their stomachs getting ready for food they never got. Quality and prices definitely vary, but a 50 pound bag usually costs between $8-30.Other needs at various intervals:Hoof care, generally every 6-8 weeks. Most horses in most circumstances are better off barefoot than shod. You can't keep a horse barefoot in a stall full of soft shavings 6 days a week then ride several hours on rocks on Saturday — unless you put hoof boots on for the ride! If the horse lives out and moves freely over varied footing, then you ride on similar footing, or if you ride daily on typical surfaces, the hooves will toughen to the work they do and they'll grow out at pretty much the same rate as they wear down. They still need to be balanced and the edges rounded to prevent chipping and serious imbalances from developing. A hoof trim costs between $30-80 (? I do my own and charge $35 for others, so I don't really know the high end price). A set of shoes might run between $50-120, with a reset costing a little less. That's shoes removed, hooves trimmed, and the same, minimally-worn shoes reapplied.Deworming a few times a year. You can get a vet to do it, or easily shoot the medicine into the horse's mouth with a pre measured oral syringe. A syringe costs between $3–10, depending on the specific drug and the brand name.Routine vet visits:Hooboy, this one can run from $50 to hundreds. Vaccines, wellness checks, sheath cleaning (look it up, it's a guy thing), dental exam and treatment, and deworming are some of the services that you can have your vet do once a year or so.Emergency vet care:Now we're talking big money. Horses are amazingly fragile for their size, and they're very talented at finding ways to get hurt. Colic, injuries, and laminitis are probably the big 3 of horse health emergencies. There's literally no upper limit to the cost of an emergency, and it's good to have a plan in mind if the costs are going to be more than you can bear. Euthanasia and body disposal are very real possibilities. They're not needed often, but it's good to think about what your budget will bear before the worst happens.Now the fun stuff:Tack. The bare minimum, if you just want to hang out with your horse, take it for walks in hand, and provide health care, is a halter and lead rope, around $20. To ride, you need a bridle and saddle, minimum $30 and $300, for a decent quality used saddle. DO NOT BUY A CHEAP NEW SADDLE! It will sore your horse's back and fall apart in a couple of years. To haul out to trails, you need a truck and trailer. To show, you need a trainer/coach, lessons, a practice arena, fancy tack and clothing, truck and trailer, and entry fees. Gobs and gobs of money there.As an alternative to owning, you can research horse lease options. These divide the financial and care burden, advertising to the specific lease agreement. The downsides include the fact that the horse doesn't belong to you, so getting attached means breaking the attachment at some point.I hope you find a way to enjoy having horses in your life.

Source: Operation BarbarossaMy impression is that after the Battle of Britain (barring any untoward happenings) it was over for Germany. Game won for the British. Where could Germany go?The Battle of Britain (including the Blitz against London) ended in ca. May 1941.Franco of Spain also saw this. Previously he had been virtually imploring Hitler to let him join the Axis. Following the Battle of Britain Franco had drastically changed his mind.Meanwhile the “Destroyers for Bases Agreement” between the USA and UK on September 2, 1940, and other similar arrangements had gone into effect.The USA gave Britain 50 old not quite usable ships (many of which were never delivered) and Britain gave the USA bases alongside its own bases in the Ocean. In effect henceforth the USA would protect and reinforce British outposts!This meant that it would no longer be possible to thoroughly beat the UK without having to attack US forces.The Lend Lease agreements had begun in March 1941. [The USA officially entered the war about 9 months later.]From now on the whole of the USA economy would be dedicated 24/7 to supplying Britain with whatever she needed and more. Due to a depression the USA production facilities had been under-utilized. There was a lot of slack to make up for, a lot of good workers begging for employment and overtime. Now it was all going to be put in full swing to a degree not previously en-visualized! It was as if the USA had given England a book of blank checks and exhorted her to use them all! Germany did not have the strength and resources to counter all this.Put yourself in German shoes:Your air force has been beaten. The British have a victory and the world is taking notice.You have lost planes and aircrew that will need to be replaced. You were bombing England but now the English are bombing you.In the same way as you are trying to prevent supplies from reaching the British they are blockading you. You have much of central and western Europe under your control but it is not enough. You lack oil, vital metals, and other supplies. You are relying to a great degree on horses whereas your opponents have mechanized horse-power! Your occupation of other lands is causing tension at home and abroad. There is resistance. British Power is growing. Your allies are weakening.[In March 1941 the British had defeated the Italians in North Africa and German forces had been sent in.]It is only a matter of time before your over-extended efforts are forced to contract. You have not got what it takes to cope with the forces against you.A possible alternative might be to try and gain a vast hinterland of your own.Conquering and settling the east had been part of German academic and military contingency planning from before the Nazis were even heard of. Contingency plans, ideological ambitions, and the mental preparations all existed. The spirit and psychological predisposition pointed to invading Russia.It was one chance of survival and it was a basic war aim of German thought. [So too (perhaps), with killing the Jews].So you invade Russia. This might give you the oil and metals and foodstuffs you need, a bridge to the east, a geo-political expanse of people and products to be exploited. This might enable you to resist the coming Anglo-American offensive.The Invasion of Russia ("Barbarossa") took place in June 1941. [Pearl Harbor came later, on December 7, 1941]. Without this Germany was in danger of imploding.Germany also tried to nullify the predominance of Britain by its U-boat campaign against British shipping in the Battle of the Atlantic. This was initially partly successful but ultimately failed.The Allies succeeded in # overcoming German surface raiders by the end of 1942 and defeating the U-boats by mid-1943, though losses due to U-boats continued until the war's end .#