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Wow! Some many nuggets among the mis-information. First US DOE has a climate zone map. It is broken down to the County (Parish) Level. So Kansas is in both Climate Zone 4 and CZ 5. CZ 1 is way south like West, FL. The IECC recommended Insulation Levels for 2012, 15, 18 and 21 are the same. They have increased over the years due to the rising prices of Energy. Natural Gas has dropped in price over the past 10 years and electricity has stabilized somewhat over the 2000–2010 period after the Enron Ride. The Table for Residential Energy Efficiency is for that code is attached.These R-Values are a good place to start. Residential Window Units are actually easy. Only 2 values to look at with windows instead of 1 value for insulation. All residential window units (including the frame) are tested according to the NFRC. See their website for details.The two Values are U-Factor and SHGC. R-Value is a scale where higher is better; that is product spin, and thus regulated by the Federal Trade Commision. The window ratings for both items are a scale that lower is better. So a single pane wood framed window is rated at U-0.87. Add an aluminum storm window and it is now a U-0.50 Both Values are from ASHRAE Fundamentals. U-Factor is the ability to transfer heat. Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) measures the ability of the window to block Solar Heat Gain (Radiated heat). Again lower is better.Remember energy efficiency is less product dependent and mostly installer dependent. If the installers don't know or don't do the job right. The insulation, window unit, HVAC system will not work efficiently or perhaps even correctly. I have found windows installed backwards, insulation installed in one stud cavity but not the next. Attics with the wrong amount (home buyer paid for additional - and didn't get it) I have been working with the homeowner on a humidity issue of 70–80% interior humidity. The installed AC units total 7 tons, the required amount per ACCA Manual J is 3.25 tons. Guaranteed to cause the humidity and the mold, wet wallboatd and other issues in the house that was completed in April of this year, 4 months as of this post.If you want to go above the amounts in the table, follow a voluntary program.First would be a Certified Energy Star for new homes, or bringing up an existing home to Energy Star Standards. Energy star requires visual inspection and actual testing of various components related to energy efficiency.Next: would be the federal DOE Zero Energy Ready Home.With either of these you can add an Indoor Air Plus Certification for healthy indoor air. Low VOC products and finishes, and other details.Above that would be a Passive House. This would be a home with efficiency designed to meet or exceed an annual Energy Demand of 5,000 BTU per square foot. I've seen Various combinations of attic and wall insulation. Some houses use phase change materials and other technology to achieve this usage. Solar, wind or other renewables would reduce the Energy Demand further.Finally, never take a sales persons word that what you are getting is a great energy efficient product. Chose a reputable builder that will build the house the way you want it. Iron out all energy efficient features you want and the level for each. Then sign a contract.Several other answers mentioned air sealing. This also is fairly easy. Existing homes need a Blower Door Test a good technician can run the test, get some good info and then using biometrics and infrared imaging locate the locations of the leaks and develop a plan to address the significant ones.Finally, for more info on insulation and why you can choose the type of insulation you want, if it is installed correctly. Read more by an independent testing group Building Science Corporation. (BSC) Google: BSC Thermal Metric Project