Us Hud For Your Protection Inspection: Fill & Download for Free

How big can the paperwork be when you purchase a house for the first time?I made up this list for my son’s friend, who just bought his first rental property:Breathe deeply... it's not as overwhelming as it looks lolThere WILL be a ton of paperwork, so just be aware of that.Today, you'll be getting:1. Residential Purchase Agreement - that's the offer to purchase and all the terms and conditions. This is a standard contract and the terms are pretty straightforward.2. Duties Owed - this is your "consumer bill of rights" - it's the things you have a legal right to expect from your realtor - but you have [your realtor], and I guarantee you she will go above and beyond to watch your back through the entire transaction.3. Buyer Notice of Disclosure, Pest Disclosure, Residential Disclosure Guide - these are standard things that you, as a buyer, should know. Like that we live in the desert and there are bugs and scorpions and things like that here. Some are redundant, but GLVAR just created the Buyer Notice of Disclosure and it's eventually going to replace some of the others. But until then... duplicates! lol4. "For Your Protection" notice - You have the right to get a home inspection before you purchase, and to request repairs based on that inspection. ([your realtor] would not let you buy anything without a home inspection anyway.) You have the right to back out of a transaction based on the inspection report, as well.5. "CIC Disclosure" - this advises you that this is a "common interest community" so there's an HOA, and that you have the right to receive the HOA package before closing. That is paid for by the seller, and normally ordered once escrow has opened. You'll receive the CC&Rs (covenants, conventions, & restrictions), HOA rules and regulations, annual budget, etc.) As the homeowner, you are responsible for ensuring that your tenants obey the rules, and you are entitled to vote on HOA board members, budgets, etc.6. Broker Comp & Invoice - this is a $250 transaction fee that you will pay to Compass Realty as part of the escrow. This is separate from the commission [your realtor] will receive from the Seller. It goes to the broker, not to her. This is charged by most brokers nowadays (and some are charging $500!), and is used to offset their costs. After all, the agent is working under their license, using their facilities, etc, and they only get a portion of the commission if they provide the lead. In this case, you are a "personal" lead for [your realtor], so all the broker gets is the $250.If the offer is accepted, we will open escrow. Once that happens, the title company (aka the escrow company) will email you instructions for wiring the earnest money deposit. That will need to be done asap.As soon as escrow opens, the title company will order a preliminary title report. This is a listing of all the legalities involved with the property - any liens on it (for things like back taxes), any lawsuits - basically, anything that might "muddy the waters" as far as transferring the title to the buyer. Any liens must be satisfied by the seller before closing. When the transaction is recorded, you get it free-and-clear except for your mortgage.[your realtor] will order the home inspection. The inspector will go out and check over everything. He's very good and very thorough. Some of the items he lists will be just "FYI" things. Others will be important to get fixed. [your realtor] will send you a copy as soon as we get it. Then we (you and her) will review it and decide what the seller should fix, what you want to fix, and what can just be lived with. We then submit a "Request for Repairs" form to the seller's agent and negotiate for the repairs.As part of closing the transaction, just before we're all done you will receive what's known as a "Closing Settlement Statement" or a "HUD 1" form. This lists all the money involved in the transaction. Every single cent. It shows how much you (as the buyer) are providing, how much is being paid out for various things - like property taxes, HOA fees (you will be paying pro-rated portions of those and the seller will be receiving refunds of the same amount as you pay), transfer taxes, commissions, etc. Then it shows the bottom line of what you are paying and what the seller is getting. [The escrow officer we use] is very good and very thorough. [your realtor] gets this form first and reviews it to ensure that everything is included and that it's all correct. Then we send it to you so you know what you're financing.The seller's agent will provide us with a Seller's Real Property Disclosure (SRPD) form as part of your due diligence period. The seller is required to disclose any KNOWN defects in the property or anything else that might affect someone's reasonable interest in purchasing the property. This form is filled out to the best of the seller's knowledge, so it must be taken with a grain of salt, but that's why you get a home inspection done. LolThe agent will also order the CIC resale package - that can take 10-20 days to get, depending on how pokey the HOA is about getting them out.And that doesn’t even include the escrow paperwork! That’s just the offer and related documents!

I see that you live in the US, so this answer is for the US.This is primarily written for, as the question asks, electrical outlets mounted on walls.It is also primarily written for residential and light commercial (apartment buildings, hotels, dormitories, office buildings, etc.) applications, not heavy commercial, industrial and other special applications.I have to add that there is no way that in such an answer that I can possibly cover and discuss each and every part of the National Electrical Code that covers this. For that the reader is directed to the National Electrical Code itself.Receptacles, Not OutletsWhat you are talking about are technically called receptacles (per the National Electrical Code, Article 100 Definitions) - more specifically 125 volt, 15 and 20 amp receptacles.Outlet is defined in 2017 NEC Article 100 as “A point on the wiring system at which current is taken to supply utilization equipment.” Information in the 2017 NEC Handbook goes on to say “The term outlet is frequently misused to refer to receptacles. Although receptacle outlets are outlets, not all outlets are receptacles outlets. Other common examples of outlets include lighting outlets and smoke alarm outlets”Thanks to Mark Bertacchi, a Master Electrician, for the way he words this: “An outlet is the point where the building wiring method exits the wall, ceiling or floor and is usually terminated in a box - thus the term ‘outlet box’.”Outlets are the things that receptacles are placed in. I want you to know the terminology that the governing code uses - but you can call them whatever you want.125 Volt, 15 Amp Duplex Decora Receptacle125 Volt, 20 Amp Duplex Decora ReceptacleNational Electrical Code RequirementsThe National Electrical Code (NEC) is the electrical installation code used in all 50 states and all U.S. Territories - reference NEC Preface.For electrical receptacles installed in walls, the NEC does not specify orientation, either vertical or horizontal, and if vertical it does not specify ground pin down or ground pin up.125 Volt, 15 Amp Duplex Standard Receptacle, Vertical and Horizontal Mounted125 Volt, 15 amp Duplex Decora Receptacle, Mounted Vertically, Ground Pin Down125 Volt, 15 amp Duplex Decora Receptacle, Mounted Vertically, Ground Pin UpMounting Orientation PracticeBy far the most common mounting orientation in the US for such receptacles mounted in walls is vertical, ground pin down.I happen to live in an area where receptacles are mounted ground pin up. I have read through the electrical ordinance for my city and it states nothing about the orientation of receptacles.I met with an electrical inspector in my city to discuss this. He told me there is no requirement in the city for receptacle orientation, and that he would approve installations where the ground pin was mounted up or down. I subsequently met with the Acting Chief Electrical Inspector and the Chairman of the Board of Electrical Examiners for my city, who both confirmed there is no requirement in my city for receptacle orientation. They noted that receptacles are typically installed ground pin up because that is the way the trade schools in the area teach - it’s done because of local convention, not regulation.I have been told by others that their city has a requirement that ground pins be mounted up. I have looked through the most stringent electrical standards I know of in the US - the electrical ordinance for New York City and the Chicago Electrical Code (a modification of the NEC) and nowhere can I find any mention of receptacle orientation for wall-mounted receptacles.If your jurisdiction has a requirement for receptacle orientation I would be interested in knowing about it. Please give me the reference to the ordinance that states the requirement and I will add that information to this answer.Horizontal Mounted ReceptaclesFor horizontal mounted receptacles the best arrangement is to place the grounding hole to the left - which places the wider neutral slot on top. This way if something metal falls on the partially exposed blades the item will hit the grounded neutral blade instead of the hot blade.Vertical Mounted ReceptaclesThere are a lot of differing opinions on this. I will include some of them below.Ground Pin Up SafetySome argue that the ground pin up orientation is safer because if a conductive object of the right size (for example, a metal paper clip) falls and lands on a plug that has a ground pin, where the plug is inserted far enough to be energized but not so far that the prongs are fully inserted and covered, because:With the ground pin down, that metal object might make contact with the hot blade and become energized, or might make contact with the hot and neutral blades and create a short.Whereas with the ground pin up, a falling metal object will make contact with the ground pin and therefore not create a hazard.I will let you determine how likely such an event is to occur, and if you want to orient your receptacles to deal with that potential hazard.One person noted hearing a radio interview with one of the original designers of the North American three prong receptacle and plug. Reportedly the designer expressed great frustration with the way it was being used because the intention when it was designed was to orient it with the ground plug up for all the reasons noted above. He apparently reported that ground plug down became the default largely by accident and subsequently many things have been designed around that assumption, making ground plug up difficult at best.If anyone can find a reference to this I would greatly appreciate it.Ground Pin Down SafetyAn alternate argument proposed by some is that the receptacle should be oriented with the ground pin down because a person grabbing the plug will have their index finger at the bottom side of the plug and the index finger sticks out further than the thumb. Having the ground down will keep a person's index finger from touching the live pins. Another argument for ground pin down is that if something drops down and hits the plug, the ground pin will be the last thing to lose contact.Living with Ground Pin Up ReceptaclesFor those of us who live in areas where the ground pin is mounted up, we experience the problem shown below when the plug of the type shown is used. This type of plug is most common on larger appliances.This is a real PIA for us, and can be unsafe in that the cord can more easily get crushed by dressers and the like pushing against them.This issue also occurs with the surge suppressor type that I prefer - shown below.Because of these problem some suggest that receptacles for heavier appliances that more commonly use this type of plug - such as clothes washing machines, refrigerators, window air conditioners, some microwave ovens - be mounted ground pin down. This is so that the plug inserts without having the cord loop over itself. Also the downward pull of the cord tends to tug the plug from the receptacle if the receptacle is mounted ground pin up.Then mount all other receptacles ground pin up.Another issue occurs when items like small power supplies (sometimes called “wall-warts”) and the GFCI-like plugs for hair dryers are installed in ground pin up receptacles - which tend to make them fall out.Split-Wired ReceptaclesIn some areas it is practice to mount duplex receptacles that are split-wired (one receptacle in the duplex controlled by a wall-mounted light switch, the other directly wired) one way - generally ground pin up, and duplex receptacles that were not split-wired mounted the other way (generally ground pin down). Then people can visually see if a receptacle is split-wired or not. I heard from several people in an area in Florida and some in California that mentioned this was a standard in their area.It should be noted that if a split-wired receptacle is fed as a multi-wire branch circuit (as shown in the diagram above) “Each multiwire branch circuit shall be provided with a means that will simultaneously disconnect all ungrounded conductors at the point where the branch circuit originates.” [Reference 2020 NEC 210.4(B)]. This can be accomplished by the use of two single-pole circuit breakers with an identified handle tie or a 2-pole circuit breaker, or by a 2-pole switch [reference 2020 NEC Handbook, 210.4(B), blue text, second paragraph.]Another perspective, in conflict with the one above - is that whatever convention is used all receptacles in a facility should be mounted the same way.Note: For split-wired receptacles there is no NEC requirement on which half of the receptacle be switched - top half or bottom half. To me the most sensible thing would be to switch the bottom half - as that is generally a light that is not moved, leaving the top half more easily accessible to plug in whatever you would like.Hospital ReceptaclesMost if not all hospital receptacles you will see in the US are mounted ground pin up.Note: If you are dealing with electrical systems in hospitals Quora is not the place to go for answers. Standards and regulations governing hospital electrical systems are very particular and specific. You need trained, qualified and experienced professionals to deal with your systems. The following is for general information only and is not intended to be used for guidance for actual hospital applications.Standards for Hospitals that Mention ReceptaclesIEEE 602–2007 Electrical Systems in Health Care Facilities - in 4.4.3 “Hospital grade receptacles” says this:“Parallel blade devices should be mounted ground pin or neutral blade up. In this configuration, any metal that drops between the plug and the wall will most likely contact a non-energized blade. While either 15 A or 20 A receptacles are permitted, it is highly desirable to use only 20 A within a health care facility. This allows for greater flexibility in equipment usage and simplifies stocking of replacement receptacles.”Note the use of the word “Should.” In standard electrical code language, “Should” means a strong suggestion, whereas “Shall” means a requirement.One person stated there is a more general IEEE document that suggests that receptacles be oriented ground pin up, but to date no one has provided a reference to any such document.NFPA 99 Standard for Health Care Facilities has no statement about receptacle orientation that I could find. It does, however, state that the receptacle shall have a retention force of not less than 4 oz. for the grounding blade (4.3.3.2.4).It has been reported that some hospital accrediting organizations require outlets be mounted ground pin up to pass inspection, and I have no reason to not believe this. But another person noted that ground pin up was not required to pass inspection - perhaps this is with a different accrediting organization. Without specific references to the applicable standards I have no way of checking this.And as I said, Quora is NOT the place to go to for information about electrical wiring systems in hospitals.Ground Pin Up or Down - It’s Up to YouPeople can (and do) argue vehemently for one way or the other.Many have stated they have seen “somewhere” a requirement that the ground pin be up. I have searched through the NEC back through 1968, read through the US Occupational Safety and Health Act (OSHA), looked at the NYC and Chicago modifications to the NEC, read many local ordinances about their electrical code, looked at UL Standards - but to date have not been able to find any such thing in any document. If you can provide me with a specific reference I will be glad to add it here - if there is such a thing.Because the regulations governing this do not specify an orientation, you are allowed to chose whichever orientation practice you want.What Would I Do?If I were wiring an existing facility I would continue with the convention already in place in that facility.If I were wiring a new home, I would orient the receptacles ground pin down.Why? Because:The risk difference between this orientation and ground pin up is marginal at best, in my opinion.Having lived with ground pin up, I don’t like it for reasons stated above.I typically don’t split-wire receptacles, and if I did I would not care to have them identified. If you do, that’s fine with me!I am not going to use metal faceplates that might slip and fall onto a partially exposed plug - I use non-conductive nylon faceplates (as described below).I use quality receptacles that provide good tight tension for the plug, not the $0.39 specials that lose tension with use. I test the tension of my receptacles periodically using a Daniel Woodhead 1760 Receptacle Tension Tester. I replace receptacles when their tension falls below the specified standard.In new residential wiring our receptacles are protected by:A circuit breaker to protect against overloads and short circuitsAlmost always a GFCI to protect against ground faultsAlmost always an AFCI to protect against arcing faultsA tamper-resistant receptacle that almost forces a plug to get fully inserted - try one for yourself and find out.FaceplatesIn my opinion the object most likely to fall as noted and potentially become energized is a metal faceplate. Because of this I don’t use metal faceplates - instead I use break-resistant nylon faceplates (not the $0.99 easily breakable faceplates).If for some reason you feel the need to use a metal faceplate that is your decision - just know that from an electrical safety standpoint I don’t personally believe that to be the wisest decision.Metal Faceplate“Unbreakable” Nylon FaceplateMy favorite faceplate is a Decora-type faceplate - specifically the Lutron Claro line. It offers the following advantages:The Decora-type receptacle faceplate is held on by two screws, unlike the standard faceplate that is held on with a single screw. This makes the Decora faceplate a lot less likely to come loose and fall down.Decora Style Duplex Receptacle. The two faceplate mounting screw holes are above and below the screw heads in the photo.The Lutron Claro faceplate has no exposed screws. This makes for a safer installation, one that is easier to clean, and one with a more modern look.Lutron Claro Duplex Receptacle FaceplateExceptionsThere is one place where the NEC does specify something in relation to receptacle orientation.2017 NEC 406.5(G) - new to the 2017 NEC, states “Receptacles shall not be installed in a face-up position in or on countertop surfaces or work surfaces unless listed for countertop or work surface applications.” I guess I thought that was a reasonable, sensible and understandable thing until some people asked why this was being included.It follows the basic rule - one that I hope most people know and understand, that water and electricity do not mix. A receptacle mounted in a face-up position on a countertop or work surface has the potential to have water that is on the surface run into the receptacle and outlet. I hope that is clear and the potential issues with that are clear to people.UL Listed Pop-Up Receptacle - Hubbell-Kellemshttps://www.vanmeterinc.com/asse...https://www.vanmeterinc.com/asse...New to the 2020 NEC at 406.5(G)(2) prohibits mounting receptacles in a face-up position in the area below a sink. That new addition makes sense to me.Why Are Some Electrical Receptacles Installed High Up On a Wall?Receptacles generally are installed about 18 inches above the floor.To be counted as a “dwelling unit receptacle outlet” as required by 2017 NEC 210.52, the receptacles shall be:If mounted in the floor, within 18 inches of the wall - 2017 NEC 210.52(A)(3).If mounted in the wall, not more than 5.5 feet above the floor - 2017 NEC 210.52(1).Read the information below on “Special Occupancies” and you might decide that 48 inches is a better choice for maximum height for many locations (and 18 inches as a minimum height).There may be reasons to install receptacles at other heights. One reason is to power old electric clocks. Another is for some appliances, such as:washing machinesmicrowave ovenswall mounted TVsReceptacles in bathrooms, basements, garages, accessory buildings, on mantleplaces, in hotels, motels, and dormitories (where laptop computers are often used) are other examples where receptacles are generally mounted higher.One person noted placing receptacles mounted in basements at a higher location due to concerns about flooding. Another person noted placing receptacles on the first floor higher up due to concerns about flooding. That makes sense to me, especially if the facility is in a location where flooding is a possibility.FEMA (Federal Emergency Management Agency) notes this in their document 551 Selecting Appropriate Mitigation Measures for Floodprone Structures - Chapter 6 “Wet Floodproofing” 6.2.4 “Location of Utilities.” Here is what it says “Any electrical outlets should be relocated or elevated to higher areas on the wall above the flood protection elevation, as there is a danger of not being unable to shut off the electrical panel before the basement floods. Relocation of utilities also includes the electrical service panel …” https://www.fema.gov/media-library-data/20130726-1609-20490-5083/fema_551.pdfWhere receptacles are mounted behind a bed, the receptacle shall be located to prevent the bed from contacting any attachment plug that may be installed or the receptacle shall be provided with a suitable guard - 2017 NEC 210.62(B).Hospitals often have receptacles mounted high on the wall so they are visible, readily accessible, and so that the cords don’t drape over the floor where they can present a trip hazard, beds could roll over them, etc.Height Requirements for Special OccupanciesReportedly various regulations, codes and standards have requirements for the height of receptacles. I don’t have the interest in tracking all of these down, because I am not involved in these situations. However if you are you need to be aware of any special requirements.Listed below are some things I have heard about, but have not independently verified:California Building Code 2016 (Volume 1) 1136A.1 requiring electrical receptacle outlets on branch circuits of 30 amperes or less to be located no more that 48 inches measured from the top of the receptacle outlet box nor less than 15 inches measured from the bottom of the receptacle outlet box to the level of the finished floor or working platform.Fair Housing Act, HUD Section 504, Rehabilitation act of 1973 (24CFR 8.22) with the same requirements as noted above for the California Building Code.The Massachusetts State Electric Code 521 CMR 39.3 Height reportedly has similar requirements.ADA (Americans With Disabilities Act) says this:28CFR Part 36, Section 4.2.5 “Forward Approach” - maximum height 48 inches.28CFR Part 36, Section 4.2.6 “Parallel Approach” - maximum height 54 inches.28CFR Part 36, 4.2.7.3 “Height” - minimum 15 inches. Maximum height as specified in 4.2.5 and 4.2.6. EXCEPTION: These requirements do not apply where the use of special equipment dictates otherwise or where electrical and communications systems receptacles are not normally intended for use by building occupants.New York City Local Law No. 39 for the year 2015 (Int. No. 433-A) “Table 3: Typical Mounting Heights.” It states 18 inches for receptacles.NECA 1–2015 “Good Workmanship in Electrical Construction” - Chapter 11 , Table 3 shows 18 inches for general receptacle outlets, finished floor to centerline of the device.International Building Code: The IBC says nothing about this topic. It references the National Electrical Code as the code to use (reference 2018 IBC Chapter 27 “Electrical,” Section 2710 “General”).I enjoyed writing this. I hope you enjoyed reading it!

When it comes to first time home buying how stressful can the experience be and what is the mountain of paperwork ahead that a first time buyer has to go through?For a first-time buyer, it can be tremendously stressful. What do you do if the house you’ve fallen in love with has issues? We just had a first-time buyer who had to delay the closing for an extra six weeks because the house had been remodeled without having some water leaks fixed, so there was mold discovered during the inspection. The poor seller was out nearly $30,000 for the remediation.A few months ago, my older son’s best friend bought his first rental property here in Las Vegas, The friend is living and working in Australia - he bought the property sight-unseen. We had to do all the legwork for him.Here’s the list I sent him the day he made the offer on the property.Today, you'll be getting:1. Residential Purchase Agreement - that's the offer to purchase and all the terms and conditions. This is a standard contract and the terms are pretty straightforward.2. Duties Owed - this is your "consumer bill of rights" - it's the things you have a legal right to expect from your realtor - but you have Ellen [the realtor I work for and who represented him in the transaction], and I guarantee you she will go above and beyond to watch your back through the entire transaction.3. Buyer Notice of Disclosure, Pest Disclosure, Residential Disclosure Guide - these are standard things that you, as a buyer, should know. Like that we live in the desert and there are bugs and scorpions and things like that here. Some are redundant, but GLVAR just created the Buyer Notice of Disclosure and it's eventually going to replace some of the others. But until then... duplicates! lol4. "For Your Protection" notice - You have the right to get a home inspection before you purchase, and to request repairs based on that inspection. (Ellen would not let you buy anything without a home inspection anyway.) You have the right to back out of a transaction based on the inspection report, as well.5. "CIC Disclosure" - this advises you that this is a "common interest community" so there's an HOA, and that you have the right to receive the HOA package before closing. That is paid for by the seller, and normally ordered once escrow has opened. You'll receive the CC&Rs (covenants, conventions, & restrictions), HOA rules and regulations, annual budget, etc.) As the homeowner, you are responsible for ensuring that your tenants obey the rules, and you are entitled to vote on HOA board members, budgets, etc.6. Broker Comp & Invoice - this is a $250 transaction fee that you will pay to [the real estate company] as part of the escrow. This is separate from the commission Ellen will receive from the Seller. It goes to the broker, not to her. This is charged by most brokers nowadays (and some are charging $500!), and is used to offset their costs. After all, the agent is working under their license, using their facilities, etc, and they only get a portion of the commission if they provide the lead. In this case, you are a "personal" lead for Ellen, so all the broker gets is the $250.If the offer is accepted, we will open escrow. Once that happens, the title company (aka the escrow company) will email you instructions for wiring the $1,000 earnest money deposit. That will need to be done asap. It doesn't HAVE to be wired, though. For instance, if your mom has access to your bank account, she could get a money order, cashier's check, or whatever, and we can take it over to the title company for you (it's right up the street from Ellen's house). That's part of the services your realtor provides. (They really do work hard for their 3% commissions.) This is one of those time-sensitive things that has to be done right away.As soon as escrow opens, the title company will order a preliminary title report. This is a listing of all the legalities involved with the property - any liens on it (for things like back taxes), any lawsuits - basically, anything that might "muddy the waters" as far as transferring the title to the buyer. Any liens must be satisfied by the seller before closing. When the transaction is recorded, you get it free-and-clear except for your mortgage.Ellen will order the home inspection. [The home inspection company we use] will go out and check over everything. He's very good and very thorough. Some of the items he lists will be just "FYI" things. Others will be important to get fixed. Ellen will send you a copy as soon as we get it. Then we (you and her) will review it and decide what the seller should fix, what you want to fix, and what can just be lived with. We then submit a "Request for Repairs" form to the seller's agent and negotiate for the repairs.As part of closing the transaction, just before we're all done you will receive what's known as a "Closing Settlement Statement" or a "HUD 1" form. This lists all the money involved in the transaction. Every single cent. It shows how much you (as the buyer) are providing, how much is being paid out for various things - like property taxes, HOA fees (you will be paying pro-rated portions of those and the seller will be receiving refunds of the same amount as you pay), transfer taxes, commissions, etc. Then it shows the bottom line of what you are paying and what the seller is getting. [The escrow officer] is very good and very thorough - we’ve worked with her for years.. Ellen gets this form first and reviews it to ensure that everything is included and that it's all correct. Then we send it to you so you know what you're financing.The seller's agent will provide us with a Seller's Real Property Disclosure (SRPD) form as part of your due diligence period. The seller is required to disclose any KNOWN defects in the property or anything else that might affect someone's reasonable interest in purchasing the property. This form is filled out to the best of the seller's knowledge, so it must be taken with a grain of salt, but that's why you get a home inspection done. LolThe agent will also order the CIC resale package - that can take 10-20 days to get, depending on how pokey the HOA is about getting them out.And that was just Day 1! We had very few problems on this transaction, thankfully, except the earthquake that moved part of the fence a bit.