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Why do the astronauts have books for troubleshooting? Wouldn't it be feasible just to memorize a handful of emergency procedures?

No, it wouldn't be feasible to memorize the procedures. Just the two ISS Emergency books total 1363 pages (although some pages are English/Russian translations). The ISS Warning books are considerably longer.A spacecraft like the ISS or Space Shuttle is massively complex. Operating one requires great care. A stupid mistake can cause hundreds of millions of dollars of damage or even get someone killed. Astronauts and flight controllers are trained to not operate by memory. They are trained so that certain critical skills become automatic and don't require significant conscious thought, but they are also trained to follow the procedures.Imagine you are in the ISS and a fire alarm has initiated and there is smoke and noise and danger. Quick, can you remember if the CRK is supposed to be deactivated when the CO2 concentration is less than 1.6% or 1.3%? Do you doff the mask when HCl concentration is less than 5 ppm or 3 ppm? Which DDCU do you shutdown to cut power to the Japanese module? On which laptop display can you quickly verify if the Lab IMV is isolated? How about the Node 2 IMV? What's the Tres for a 1mmHg drop in 19 seconds? What happens if you forget to disconnect the ВД (ventilation duct) in the МИМ1 – СУ(FGB) hatchway during leak pinpointing? What order must the three operational controls protecting the crew from electric shock have to be removed or put in place? When isolating ПхО do you power off ППС-21 or ППС-22? How much time is lost when you send the execute command without first sending the arm command?Not to mention many procedures require multiple people to work together, performing their separate steps in a specific sequence.Procedures, checklists, and cue cards help ensure people do things correctly when under pressure and greatly reduce the amount of training required.

What is the most effective method of arguing that global warming is, in fact, a real threat?

Any disagreement should begin by establishing what is agreed on. For global warming here’s a suitable checklist. The two sides should stop checking at the first item they dispute and focus on the disagreement.Global warmth: Without water vapor’s greenhouse effect the oceans would be frozen solid.If all the water vapor were to condense out it would have a volume of 13,000 cubic km and be about 13000/510 = 25.5 mm (~ 1 inch) thick if spread evenly over the 510 million square km of the planet.Average precipitation for the planet is 1050 mm. Hence the average residence time for water vapor is 365*(25.5/1050) = 8.9 days.CO2 in excess of 280 ppm has been rising at 2% a year since 1800, and this excess had reached 120 ppm (i.e. a total of 400 ppm) by 2014.If that keeps up, total CO2 will reach 1000 ppm (0.1% or 1‰) by about the year 2100.The atmosphere weighs 5140 trillion tons. 1‰ of that as CO2 would therefore weigh 5140 *44/29 = 7800 billion tons.If frozen to dry ice (density 1.5) and spread evenly over Earth’s surface it would come to 7800/1.5/510 = 10.2 mm, which is only 40% of the thickness of the atmosphere’s water vapor if condensed to water.Global warming: CO2 is compounding annually at a much higher rate than water vapor. Hence even though CO2 in 2100 will only be 40% of water vapor as measured by volume in respectively solid and liquid form, water vapor only contributes to global warmth. Global warming is therefore almost entirely due to the rapid rise in CO2 (along with any accompanying industrial GHG emissions but CO2 accounts for 80% of industrial GHG warming).If and when the two parties reach agreement on all eight items they can move on to discuss the quantitative details of the causal chain from CO2 emissions to CO2 accumulation in the atmosphere to rising temperature. The following graph should provide a starting point for that discussion.Last but not least, there is the question of projections. Projected CO2 was agreed on (or not) in items 4 and 5 above, but what does that imply for temperature? This is where climate sensitivity comes in. My presentation at last month’s AGU meeting in DC, just a few blocks north-east of the White House, was titled Sources of variation in climate sensitivity estimates. While no single number fits all situations, the reasoning in the third column supports the following projection based on the circumstances for last century continuing unchanged for this century, using the latest reconstructions of total solar irradiance for 1850–2017 for calibration.The uncertainty of ±0.15 in the figure of 1.85 for climate sensitivity (more properly called climate response since it is assessed in real time as distinct from in equilibrium) is obtained by using the standard deviation σ of the best fit’s residual and determining how much variation in climate response is possible consistent with keeping the residual’s standard deviation below 2σ. The figure at the bottom of column 3 gives the quantitative details.

My betta fish has a small white fuzzy patch near his tail and his color has faded. What should I do and what's wrong?

I am going to paraphrase WetWebMedia here, and say, "I need more data."To get a handle on what exactly is wrong with your betta, you need to know what the water quality is like (pH, hardness, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate---real numbers here), what sort of tank you have (is it an actual tank, with a filter and a heater and a size over 5 gallons, or is it a bowl, which you really shouldn't be keeping a betta in unless you keep the room at tropical temperatures and change out all the water daily), what sort of food you're feeding it, and so on.However, just from your description, it sounds like a fungal infection. These only occur when a fish's immune system has been severely suppressed by aggression or a poor environment. There are proprietary antifungal treatments, but if something is wrong with the betta's environment they won't do any good.Bettas require a temperature of around 77 degrees Fahrenheit or 25 degrees Celsius to thrive. They also require zero ammonia and zero nitrite, as these are lethal. Nitrate should definitely be kept under 40 ppm, preferably under 20 ppm---as low as you can go. They're not especially picky about pH and hardness, but if your pH and hardness are extremely low or extremely high that could point to serious problems.Bettas are tough fish, and can survive in poor conditions for some time, which is why people mistakenly believe they do well in cups or flowerpots. But over the long term, the poor environment will cause them to grow weaker, until they, as you probably are seeing, lose their brilliant colors and get diseases.I recommend you start here: A Checklist of Common Problems with Freshwater Aquaria, Bettas, Goldfish, and Freshwater Turtles (Terrapins)WetWebMedia is a great resource for fishkeepers, and their advice has helped me cure many fish of illness.

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